SS 3 1/2 Pound 5/8 Keyless Chuck

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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

[quote="pieceseeker"]Well, I ordered it, so we'll see what it can do. ]

I bet it can cylindrical objects up to 5/8" in diameter.:rolleyes: ;)
--
Terry
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pieceseeker
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Post by pieceseeker »

Just maybe I can run a buffing wheel on a 5/8 shaft with it. ;)
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"


2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
Mike907
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Post by Mike907 »

I just received mine today, but I must have ordered the light weight version, since it only weighs in at 3 lbs, 2 oz, with the arbor. The chuck is labeled JT3, which I had to google to find is a Jacobs Taper 3, and although there is a threaded hole in the end of the arbor, the chuck only mounts with friction. I haven't had a chance to mount it on the SS, but I chucked up a 5/8ths bowl gouge (measured a true .625 on a digital caliper) and it fits fine. However, if you open the jaws a little farther, the chuck is forced off the arbor taper, so remember to hold on tight when opening the chuck to the maximum.

It does appear to be beautifully made.

Mike
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pieceseeker
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Post by pieceseeker »

Mike907 wrote:I just received mine today, but I must have ordered the light weight version, since it only weighs in at 3 lbs, 2 oz, with the arbor. The chuck is labeled JT3, which I had to google to find is a Jacobs Taper 3, and although there is a threaded hole in the end of the arbor, the chuck only mounts with friction. I haven't had a chance to mount it on the SS, but I chucked up a 5/8ths bowl gouge (measured a true .625 on a digital caliper) and it fits fine. However, if you open the jaws a little farther, the chuck is forced off the arbor taper, so remember to hold on tight when opening the chuck to the maximum.

It does appear to be beautifully made.

Mike
Do you have the ability to check runout? How bout a couple pic's?
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"


2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
Mike907
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Post by Mike907 »

Pics of the keyless chuck:

[ATTACH]20984[/ATTACH]

Tapered arbor. I have things to learn here, because when I tried drilling a 1/2" hole in a 2 by 4, the chuck and bit fell off the arbor when I was clearing chips.

[ATTACH]20985[/ATTACH]

Chuck with 1/2" bit.

[ATTACH]20986[/ATTACH]

Closer view. If this was a double struck coin, I might be rich.

[ATTACH]20987[/ATTACH]

Collar Labels

[ATTACH]20988[/ATTACH]

Business end.

Mike
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Arbor.jpg
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Chuck, Logo, 1-2%22 Bit.jpg
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Chuck and Logo.jpg
Chuck and Logo.jpg (53.08 KiB) Viewed 3792 times
Markings.jpg
Markings.jpg (69.84 KiB) Viewed 3794 times
Business End 2.jpg
Business End 2.jpg (75.69 KiB) Viewed 3794 times
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tgamel
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Post by tgamel »

ryanbp01 wrote:My keyed chuck, which came with the machine, still works fine for me. I'm going to stick with what I have. Besides, that'll put me $150.00 closer to the PP upgrade!:D
BPR
Same here, all my cordless drills have key less chucks and no matter how tight I attempt to get them some drill bits just do not stay in very well. Key less may make transitions faster, but for now I think I will spend my money on something else. Been eyeing that lift assist option for my 500.

Todd
Todd (Canton, TX)

1962 Magna Corporation Mark V Goldie (Serial #379277); 1983 Shopsmith Mark V Model 500 (Serial #165199, w/bandsaw & joiner), Shopsmith 20" Scroll saw w/stand (Serial #030191), and Shopsmith DC3300 dust collection system. Taking my time, learning all I can and making a big mess!
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pieceseeker
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Post by pieceseeker »

Good pics, thanks. What did you do to re-install the chuck on the arbor? Do you have to hammer it on or is there a threaded hole in the chuck end of the arbor?
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"


2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Yes, great pictures. Thanks for taking the time to prepare this post. It was very interesting.

I have moved most of my drilling to a 'shorty' and I believe that this keyless chuck is enough longer than the regular chuck that it might prevent my chucking normal bits.

This is something for everyone to think about when deciding to go for a shorty.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

Mike907 wrote: Closer view. If this was a double struck coin, I might be rich.


Mike
The numeric "fonts" look a lot like those on a Live Center I got from Shars Tools. It's a very nice live-center.
Chris
Mike907
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Post by Mike907 »

I cleaned the residual packing lubricant from the tapered arbor and the chuck bore and drilled holes up to 1 inch diameter. The chuck stayed on the arbor just fine. Its is also very easy to open to change bits. Time will tell if it grips as well as a keyed chuck. I wasn't able to test for runout, but the test holes all seemed smooth, round, and straight.

Here is a comparison shot confirming what Dusty said. You lose 2.4 inches of drilling room.

[ATTACH]20995[/ATTACH]

I finally found my original chuck so that I could take this picture, now if I could only find the key.

Mike
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Size Comparison.jpg
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