upgrade to Power Pro or not?

[WmZiggy]

I would want an accurate diagnosis on my old machine before spending money on a new one. Information can only help the decision making process.

[tomsalwasser]

Check into all the troubleshooting advice offered here. If indeed you need repairs, for a fraction of the cost of a Power Pro upgrade I would send the headstock to someone like Bill Mayo or Jacob Anderson http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-or-tuneu ... 1032596902

You'll end up with a like-new headstock and a thousand extra bucks in your wallet.

[fredsheldon]

If you can afford it go for the PowerPro. You will be glad you did. But, if money is an issue, why not just pick up a $200 500 and use the motor off of it and part out the rest unless you want to build a shorty and install an OPR.

[chuckoliver]

I had hoped to hear from some Power Pro owners to help in the decision. Thanks to all of you who answered. Here is where I stand:

The cost is closer to $1700 for the do it yourself option with tax and postage, and is a lot of money, even with the wife's concurrence. So I followed instructions on this forum and pulled the motor and took it to a local repair shop. I am awaiting the results. More than likely, I am going to get the motor fixed and give the guts a good cleaning and tune-up. Both belts are old, but appear to be in good shape. I am holding up on further tear down until I make a decision on the motor. The upgrade is not out of the question, but I agree with a previous poster that the cost is hardly worth it, considering how I use it. I might use an upgrade to wood-turn some, but since I already have a rugged lathe with a 16" swing and decent low speed, it's not a necessity to have the Power Pro.

Thanks again for all of your thoughts. I will post again with results of the final decision.

[charlese]

I had hoped to hear from some Power Pro owners to help in the decision. Thanks to all of you who answered. Here is where I stand:....

Thanks again for all of your thoughts. I will post again with results of the final decision.

You got two replies from PowerPro users. As one of those, I wouldn't go back for twice the money:D . I was using it for ripping today and thought of you as the oak boards slid through the saw.

The $1700 you speak of seems a bit high! But if you go that way, you won't be spending $200 or so on a new motor.

[billmayo]

I do not recommend that any Shopsmith motor be rewound. Too expensive and the 2 motors I have seen that was rewound ran very very hot compared to the Shopsmith motors. These motors were made only for Shopsmith. I have never been able to find any Shopsmith motor winding specifications even after contacting the motor manufacture. I have been able to find start points and capacitors that would work. I find most replacement motors can be brought from Ebay sellers for much less than the rewinding will cost.

If the motor does not have a burnt smell and does not operate (dead or hum), the start winding contact points not making contact are the most likely problem. Sawdust and crud on the points can cause this. Many times, a rubber hammer hitting on the motor pan will restore operation. I try both horizontal and vertical headstock positions. Loose or corroded wire connections or switch will show as an open circuit. An ohm meter may be needed to further check for open or shorted to ground problems. Always insure the ground to the motor is connected to the outlet ground to prevent shocking problems.

Do not let any motor hum for more than 1/2 second. A second or longer humming may burn the winding insulation causing a short or an open winding.

[chuckoliver]

The local motor repair shop reported the motor ran fine, but was full of dust. They cleaned it and replaced the bearings for a nominal fee, while I checked out the power cord. It turns out the white lead had opened right at the strain relief. It was not visible without removing the cord, and explains why I had no power at the on-off switch. My guess is the burnt smell I sensed when the motor stopped was the final few strands of the white lead heating up and melting open.

I cut of the bad section of power cord, reamed out the power lead hole for a new strain relief and reinstalled everything after cleaning out some gunk and oiling the mechanical parts. Both drive belts were in apparent good condition so I didn't replace them. I'm back in business.

Thanks to all who comments and my apologies to the folks who wanted to live vicariously through me, if I upgraded.

[JPG]

The local motor repair shop reported the motor ran fine, but was full of dust. They cleaned it and replaced the bearings for a nominal fee, while I checked out the power cord. It turns out the white lead had opened right at the strain relief. It was not visible without removing the cord, and explains why I had no power at the on-off switch. My guess is the burnt smell I sensed when the motor stopped was the final few strands of the white lead heating up and melting open.

I cut of the bad section of power cord, reamed out the power lead hole for a new strain relief and reinstalled everything after cleaning out some gunk and oiling the mechanical parts. Both drive belts were in apparent good condition so I didn't replace them. I'm back in business.

Thanks to all who comments and my apologies to the folks who wanted to live vicariously through me, if I upgraded.

:D:D:D:D #5 :D:D:D;)

[dusty]

The local motor repair shop reported the motor ran fine, but was full of dust. They cleaned it and replaced the bearings for a nominal fee, while I checked out the power cord. It turns out the white lead had opened right at the strain relief. It was not visible without removing the cord, and explains why I had no power at the on-off switch. My guess is the burnt smell I sensed when the motor stopped was the final few strands of the white lead heating up and melting open.

I cut of the bad section of power cord, reamed out the power lead hole for a new strain relief and reinstalled everything after cleaning out some gunk and oiling the mechanical parts. Both drive belts were in apparent good condition so I didn't replace them. I'm back in business.

Thanks to all who comments and my apologies to the folks who wanted to live vicariously through me, if I upgraded.

I guess you would have been in real trouble had you followed my advise. Buying a PowerPro when all you needed was a new power cord would not have been a good way to impress the financial manager.

[tgamel]

Glad it was only a minor problem and easy to fix.