I BOX review of sorts (spoiler alert)

[JPG]

Left Right Inside Outside Of what! Extra words that add to de cornfuzun.

Arbor shoulder is the relevant reference(aka as the side blade whose location does NOT vary with blade width changes).


A left tilt arbor has the shoulder on the left(the arbor nut is always on the side 'away' from the tilt since it is moving up towards the bottom of the table when tilted). This is as the SS table/arbor positions change when the table is tilted.

A right tilt arbor has the shoulder on the right - (same details).

Assuming there is no reasonable way to relieve the interference(different screw head/counter sink the extrusion?) I concur the blade guard throat width is a minimally destructive alteration.

[JPG]

lef, lef, lef, rit, lef, gota yur...lef

Beats Dt!:D

[JPG]

According to Mark at Incra, with the SS it really doesn't matter. I find it easier to reset it after removal for another operation, when its on the left of the blade. YMMV

I disagree with Mark - as I am sure do you!

De arbor blade shoulder is on de left so de jig needs to be to de left also!




P.S. in defense of Mark at Incra, he was using the 'thingy' most obvious(the blade tilt direction). From there I am not sure he looked beyond the dual miter gauge slots. Again we be that weird machine not always understood by the 'ignorant';) masses.

[Gene Howe]

On the left does make things easier.

[quote="JPG40504"]I disagree with Mark - as I am sure do you!

De arbor blade shoulder is on de left so de jig needs to be to de left also!




P.S. in defense of Mark at Incra, he was using the 'thingy' most obvious(the blade tilt direction). From there I am not sure he looked beyond the dual miter gauge slots. Again we be that weird machine not always understood by the 'ignorant']

[terryd]

Thanks for all the discussion of the issues, solutions and such. This accumulated experience with the I-Box really helps make the decision to purchase much easier. I really like the quality of the Incra/Shopsmith products. This group never disappoints when it comes to indepth product analysis and hands-on knowledge.

[reible]

FYI

I have emailed Mark about the "fit" issues of the miter bar. I have tightened mine just short of snapping the wrench and it still doesn't fit as snug as I think it should. Since I have several Incra item I'm quite sure they have the knowledge to do better, their products have shown that. Not sure just what the issue is but know they know about it we will see what they say.

I also noted the bar mounting screw and rear guard bolt issue. I see nothing wrong in the two solutions we have seen posted here but why not let them know, maybe they have yet another solution.

If others have emails or phone conversations related to the jig please keep us informed. I will do the same.

Ed

[reible]

I'm back here this morning and I have news for you.

The problem is with the bar. The holes need to be countersunk and at least on mine they were not.

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I've modified mine as shown in the pictures below.

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Warning: The metal is very soft so go really slow (that is if you want to countersink your bar) and don't get carried away and make it too deep. The other option would be to send it back and get a replacement.

That small change made all the difference. I can now lock the miter bar in where as before I couldn't get a proper fit. So with the adjustment done properly it slides like I expected it to.

Mark also mentioned adding some grease on the treads might help. I did that too after making sure the countersink fix worked.

Slot location was also mentioned on the white disks.

"[font="]The orientation of the slots in the white discs makes a big difference...if you look at the bar from above, there's a "point" where the round edge of the disc pocket opens up at the edge of the miter bar, right where the pocket stops making contact with the edge of the disc - aim the slot directly at the point (this is roughly 2:00 or 4:00 for the discs on the right side of the bar and 8:00 or 10:00 for the discs on the left side of the bar). Or to phrase it differently, if you're looking at the side of the miter bar and you're looking at the edge of the disc in the pocket's opening, you should just barely see the slot at one edge of the opening in the side of the miter bar."

As for the other issue, mounting screw and guard bolt interference, they now have a new bolt with a shallower head, he will be shipping me out one to see. I guess you would need to contact him if you want one. I was almost going to say never mind but then I though I did pay $170 of this, why not.

I think we are all caught up with the issues to this point but feel free to keep the thread active.

Oh, one more thing, and this I thought was funny.[/font]

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Ed

[Mike907]

Ed -

Thanks for the updates. Did you use a countersink or twist drill bit to countersink the holes in the bar?

Mike

[reible]

Ed -

Thanks for the updates. Did you use a countersink or twist drill bit to countersink the holes in the bar?

Mike

I used a countersink in my hand held drill. Of course it might be better to use your Shomsmith if you think you might have controlling the depth. You want as many threads left in the hole as you can.

Another hint, after doing the countersinking use the screw from the back side to clean any burr that might have gotten created during the process.

Ed

[mountainbreeze]

I think I am missing something. The length of the screw and the thickness of the white disk did not change, so how does countersinking the hole help?