610 Jigsaw
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610 Jigsaw
How do I disassemble the top head from the C arm?
Covered in sawdust
Bill
Olean,NY
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Shopsmith Mark V Greenie,Craftsmans 10" table & Radial arm saws, 12" band saw, Rockwell 6"x48" belt sander,Drill press, Ridgid 13"planner, oscillating belt/spindle sander.
Bill
Olean,NY
Support our Troops
Shopsmith Mark V Greenie,Craftsmans 10" table & Radial arm saws, 12" band saw, Rockwell 6"x48" belt sander,Drill press, Ridgid 13"planner, oscillating belt/spindle sander.
You need to remove the top cover from the head which reveals a bolt. That bolt holds the head to the eccentric which is wedged into the arm. Remove the bolt and the head comes off. You will need to squeeze the eccentric to remove it from the arm. The square nut the bolt went into can be retrieved from inside the arm. When reassembling you will loosely attach the head to the eccentric with the bolt and square nut and re-insert it into the arm (again squeezing the eccentric). The eccentric allows aligning the upper blade block with the lower block. Hope this helps.yellowbug wrote:How do I disassemble the top head from the C arm?
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- pieceseeker
- Gold Member
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 12:13 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
The easiest way I found to separate the upper head from the "C" arm is:
Take the top cover off
Remove blade and upper chuck assembly
Unscrew the bolt inside the back of the pump housing about a 1/2" ...this retains the square nut so retrieval is unnecessary
You'll notice that there is an aluminum sleeve (you only see a collar at this point) between the arm and the upper air pump body. This sleeve is split so that it spreads over a tapered tail (part of the upper body). That is the locking mechanism.
Scroll down the page to see a disassembled head.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 636&page=5
Use a wedge (screw driver, whatever) between that aluminum collar and the upper pump body in order to separate the two. Only a small distance should be required to loosen the wedging action.
If need be, use a block of wood and hammer and tap on the back of the pump body (housing...painted gray) to separate from the "C" arm.
If the assembly is being stubborn...at that point, when the body is far enough away from the arm, you can use large pliers to squeeze the aluminum collar where it is split.
BTW, what are you planning to do?
Take the top cover off
Remove blade and upper chuck assembly
Unscrew the bolt inside the back of the pump housing about a 1/2" ...this retains the square nut so retrieval is unnecessary
You'll notice that there is an aluminum sleeve (you only see a collar at this point) between the arm and the upper air pump body. This sleeve is split so that it spreads over a tapered tail (part of the upper body). That is the locking mechanism.
Scroll down the page to see a disassembled head.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 636&page=5
Use a wedge (screw driver, whatever) between that aluminum collar and the upper pump body in order to separate the two. Only a small distance should be required to loosen the wedging action.
If need be, use a block of wood and hammer and tap on the back of the pump body (housing...painted gray) to separate from the "C" arm.
If the assembly is being stubborn...at that point, when the body is far enough away from the arm, you can use large pliers to squeeze the aluminum collar where it is split.
BTW, what are you planning to do?
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
The housing is out of square, plus I want to blast and paint the c arm..
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
Covered in sawdust
Bill
Olean,NY
Support our Troops
Shopsmith Mark V Greenie,Craftsmans 10" table & Radial arm saws, 12" band saw, Rockwell 6"x48" belt sander,Drill press, Ridgid 13"planner, oscillating belt/spindle sander.
Bill
Olean,NY
Support our Troops
Shopsmith Mark V Greenie,Craftsmans 10" table & Radial arm saws, 12" band saw, Rockwell 6"x48" belt sander,Drill press, Ridgid 13"planner, oscillating belt/spindle sander.
- pieceseeker
- Gold Member
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 12:13 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
The housing is out of square?
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
A large channel lock pliers.SDSSmith wrote:A C clamp.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Ahh but the 'large' size has 'large' flat areas at the outside end of the jaws.]knurling[/B] things either.SDSSmith wrote:Your choice, not mine. The material is too soft and the channel lock teeth are too hard for my liking.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange