Ripping cut not straight but bowed.

[mgdesigns]

I admit it's probably user error, because I am very afraid of kickback. I did have the guard above and below the blade, with the splitter dead center (riving knife?). I did not have a feather board attached (don't know how?), and pushed the board halfway, and then pulled it the rest of the way maintaining pressure against the fence the whole time. Mind you it is quarter sawn white oak, straight as an arrow, purchase from Woodcraft in the bargain bin. It's got me puzzled, and I don't like to miss a learning opportunity. I don't have a similar piece to duplicate the situation.

[wa2crk]

I believe that the technique used may be a problem. Pushing the stock is the preferred method, however when you switch positions and complete the cut by pulling you may actually be wobbling (for lack of a better term) the stock against the fence.
A better method would be to push the stock all the way through using some sort of an outfeed table or a helper. The helper should just support the stock but not influence the cut at all by pulling.
The feather board should be positioned in one of the miter bar slots and should provide some pressure to hold the stock against the fence. It should be set so that the fingers are on the infeed side of the blade but not so close to the blade as to cause a pinch. The last finger of the feather board can be about one inch (but not less) in front of the teeth on the infeed side of the blade. If you have a copy of PTWFE the technique is listed there. The book is also on line from SS.
Bill V

[JPG]

The major stumbling block to understanding this is that the middle is 3/16" wider than the ends.

Does this mean the middle is wider than intended, or the ends are narrower than intended.

Either way tis a mystery!!!!

Something has to 'move'.

Why the blade is not being pinched and burning occurring is also mysterious.







We really need to understand this! Imagine the ability to cut curves on a table saw!:D

[dusty]

I admit it's probably user error, because I am very afraid of kickback. I did have the guard above and below the blade, with the splitter dead center (riving knife?). I did not have a feather board attached (don't know how?), and pushed the board halfway, and then pulled it the rest of the way maintaining pressure against the fence the whole time. Mind you it is quarter sawn white oak, straight as an arrow, purchase from Woodcraft in the bargain bin. It's got me puzzled, and I don't like to miss a learning opportunity. I don't have a similar piece to duplicate the situation.

First off, I would not assume that it is straight as an arrow. I would joint the one edge first. The edge that is going against the fence for the rip cut. Once that edge is straight, then you are ready to rip.

Secondly, there is nothing to fear if you guard against those actions that typically cause kickback. One of those is having the stock move away from the fence during a cut. That is one compelling reason to use the feather board. You might also want to introduce a push stick or push block into this procedure.

I cannot imagine moving around to the out feed side during a cut procedure. I also do not recommend pulling the stock through the cut from the out feed side. When you are there pulling, what is holding the stock against the fence on the in feed side - nothing.

Pardon me for being blunt but I think that you might be very fortunate to have gotten away with this maneuver with nothing more than some deviation in width of cut.

Foot Note: Respect your power tools for the damage they can do but do not fear them. Learn how to use them safely and there is nothing to fear.

[Ed in Tampa]

I have never seen any good come out of pushing the stock half way then running around the saw and pulling the stock the rest of the way.

In fact I did hear of a terrible accident where the guy was walking around the saw while it was running and stumbled. He placed his hand in harms way trying to catch his fall. Won't go into gory details but the results weren't good.

Kickback on a long board only occurs when the board is allowed to move uncontrolled, like when you are changing positions. Think of what could have happened if your shirt or some other piece of clothing had snagged the board. Not only would you have been exposed to kickback but your clothes would have probably aimed it right at you.

Please don't do that again.

When sawing think through the entire cut and stand either to right or left of the cut, so if kickback does occur you are out of the line of fire.

I usually like to stand so the fence is between me and board if the piece is small and I need to be up close.

With longer boards I tend to start the cut on the board side of the fence so I can see the board fence relationship, then as the cut progresses I shift myself so I'm fully out of the line of fire.

My biggest concern are my hands so I try to stand where with my arms fully extended my hands are short of the blade. When that isn't possible I try to be on the fence side of the cut with my thumb hooked on the fence so my hand can't readily be pulled into the blade. When I can't do either I make sure I have a push stick.

I like my fingers too much to lose them just cutting wood.

[mgdesigns]

Thanks for all of tips and constructive criticism. I do respect this machine's power, and I do fear the loss of limb or digits, so I try to be very careful. My description was perhaps less than perfect, as well as my technique.

The upper guard did have full anti-kickback pawls engaged into the cut wood, and my hand never left guiding the board. Is the a video that shows how to properly rip using the Shopsmith table saw? Dumb newbie question I know, but inquiring mind need to know.

The miter gauge on this 1955 is missing the hold-down and perhaps the boss to which it attaches, and the slot tensions screw. Are these parts readily available?

[algale]

First, build an outfeed table. You won't believe how much easier and safer ripping operations are with it in place.

[claimdude]

I used a device called Ripstraight for years and the company went out of business. I use Board Buddies now. Wouldn't be without them. Holds the stock against the fence and prevents kickback so I can focus on feeding the stock.

Jack

[algale]

I used a device called Ripstraight for years and the company went out of business. I use Board Buddies now. Wouldn't be without them. Holds the stock against the fence and prevents kickback so I can focus on feeding the stock.

Jack

Would like to see pics of set up on the Shopsmith....

[videobear]

For really long boards find a helper to guide the outfeed end.