2 Stroke Fuel

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 12:58 am

This was brought up in another thread, but I didn't want to hijack it. The box stores have started Trufuel synthetic 2-stroke fuel, comes in a can. It never expires, it never has moisture problems, pre-mixed oil, etc. My weedeater starts like its brand new with it and barely started with 'regular' gas/oil. I can't recommend it enough. Amazing stuff...and I think they make a 4 stroke option also.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:06 am

The motorhead in me is cringing right now.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:50 am

frank81 wrote:The motorhead in me is cringing right now.

That mean you do not like 'synthetic' oil either?:D

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:03 pm

frank81 wrote:The motorhead in me is cringing right now.

Okay I will ask why?

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:34 pm

I have no problem with synthetic oil. I use it in my truck. Most of my toys get good ol dinosaur oil but they were engineered before synthetic was mainstream.

I cringe because all else held constant, if one fuel ignites easily and the other doesn't its because they have different combustion and flashpoint properties. When you get into something like straight starting fluid, it burns fast and hot to start the motor but that also burns off oil from the cylinder walls. OK once in a while but on a regular basis will ruin the cylinder walls and piston rings, requiring a rebuild earlier.

2 stroke may be OK because they control the lubricant and could make evertyhing compatible...but no guarantee that everything on the marketplace is engineered with your best interests in mind. I wouldn't touch the 4 stroke fuel with a 39 1/2 foot pole.

The only situation I would use that stuff in is if it were equipment that did not have a serviceable carb and I wanted to get another year out of it rather than throw away. Which is true of a lot of residential grade equipment sold today...nearly everyone in the industry uses Zuma carbs. For new or high end equipment, no way.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 3:42 pm

Back in the 70's when I was racing motorcycles we always used synthetic oil and some guys used synthetic fuel as well.
I know using synthetic oil saved my plugs, burned cleaner and I had to do rebuilds less often. Every other race instead of every one

Seriously we tore down our engines usually every other race and miked everything out, replacing anything out of spec. Using synthetic oil usually made my rings and time between bore outs to be far longer than I had with dino oil. Since we used highest quality bearing in nearly everything in the engine they rarely failed.

Biggest problem was fouled plugs and fouled spark arresttors (required in wooded area races). Never fouled either using synthetic oil.

I have a buddy that used only a graphite based oil in his 4 stroke and car. Had to have something adjusted in his car and when he went to pick it up there was a note to see the Mechanic. He spoke to mechanic and he wanted to know what oil he was using. The mechanic said when he opened the motor and saw all the black oil he was sure it was shot. But he checked everything and everything was nearly in factory new spec condition.

Same buddy had a BMW Motorcycle always used synthetic oil. 40,000 miles we pulled the cylinder jugs they still had the factory hone marks on them. We put the engine back together and he rode it from Cleveland to LA via Phoenix in 3 days including the nearly full day stop in Phoenix.

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:03 pm

frank81 wrote:I cringe because all else held constant, if one fuel ignites easily and the other doesn't its because they have different combustion and flashpoint properties. When you get into something like straight starting fluid, it burns fast and hot to start the motor but that also burns off oil from the cylinder walls. OK once in a while but on a regular basis will ruin the cylinder walls and piston rings, requiring a rebuild earlier.

I don't know that this fuel is closer to starting fluid. I have a feeling it works better because it doesn't have any ethanol or moisture in it. Where I live, it's damn near impossible to get gas without excessive amounts of both.

skou · Post by **skou** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:12 pm

joshh wrote:I don't know that this fuel is closer to starting fluid. I have a feeling it works better because it doesn't have any ethanol or moisture in it. Where I live, it's damn near impossible to get gas without excessive amounts of both.

Ethanol or moisture in 4 stroke oil, is not that big of a deal. It'll all stay mixed. The stuff sold as gasoline dryer, is usually just alcohol.

Now, add some oil to the mix, the gasoline and oil will mix, but the water and alcohol will separate out. That alcohol/water mix will also support combustion. Notice that there's no oil in that second mix. REAL BAD for a 2 cycle engine, unless you have oil injection, like my old RD-400 did.

steve

cincinnati · Post by **cincinnati** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:16 pm

I use the premixed stuff in my weed trimmer, blower and chainsaw. A qt can last me 4 to 6 weeks. 1 gal can of gas oil mix takes too long for my liking to use. Had all kinds of trouble with my new Chainsaw till I started using the premixed stuff. Only use the saw after a storm etc... FYI- Walmart is about a buck a can cheaper.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Aug 21, 2013 9:17 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:
I have a buddy that used only a graphite based oil in his 4 stroke and car.

At one time I used the old Arco Graphite some. Never had a problem with it but it just went off of the market.
I used to use it to make my own chainsaw bar oil mix. One quart of Arco Graphite oil, two quarts of the cheapest oil off of the shelf and one can of STP. It worked absolutely great... I was cutting "a lot" of firewood both for myself and to sell. It did make the chains a little messier to remove and grind and was hard to wash the black out of your hands.

.