Newbie with serial number question, etc.

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

And Don't spin the speed control until you start rotating the shaft by hand and slowly turn it down to the slowest setting before attempting to power it up. It might just be at the highest setting now which would account for the slow spin up. It usually will throw the breaker when you attempt this until you crank the speed control all the way down before powering it up. That's assuming that everything else inside is free and somewhat lubed.
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oldskull
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Post by oldskull »

It is made by Magna Engineering and it has a 3/4 hp motor. Where is the inspection plate? The serial number I found on the round plate on the end of the headstock.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

oldskull wrote:It is made by Magna Engineering and it has a 3/4 hp motor. Where is the inspection plate? The serial number I found on the round plate on the end of the headstock.

The 'inspection plate' would be the logo on the back side, however that 'vintage' does not have an inspection hole under it.

I am assuming that from the sn. I believe you have an 'A' headstock.

Count the screws securing the belt cover(where the sn vent plate resides).

If more than 2(8?) securing it to the casting, you have an 'A' headstock.

P.S. A pix would eliminate the need to 'assume'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Given that there is a serial number and it is a Magna, what else could there be to determine. It was born in 1954.
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oldskull
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Post by oldskull »

Here is a picture. It's taken a while to figure it out and I have not figured out to post more than one. I hope this works.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Assumptions correct. It is an 'A' headstock.

[ATTACH]23049[/ATTACH]

Notice more than 2 screws on the belt cover.

The power switch has an interlock that must be depressed to increase speed above saw/joint.

So there is not an access hole under the logo on the backside.

This makes lubricating the control sheave difficult(motor pan dropped ). However that is easily done, and much better access results.

Notice the paper clip on the 'tool bar'. That will open a window to browse and upload up to 5 pix/post. After uploading them, click on the paper clip to insert them into the text.

The way tubes look good. The bench tubes were originally painted.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
oldskull
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Post by oldskull »

When I went to buy it, the previous owner and I plugged it in to show me that it worked but it barely moved at all. It looked like it wanted to move but it moved about 5 degrees maybe so we shut it off. I took the belt cover off when i got it home and I can spin the headstock by hand. It looks like the belts are okay. I have been cleaning things up and today I mounted the legs so I can get the bottom pan off to see if there is anything physically wrong with the motor or the wiring. Is there anything I should do before assuming the motor is burned out?

Oh, the paper clip is crossed out so when I try to add pictures, it doesn't do anything.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

oldskull wrote:When I went to buy it, the previous owner and I plugged it in to show me that it worked but it barely moved at all. It looked like it wanted to move but it moved about 5 degrees maybe so we shut it off. I took the belt cover off when i got it home and I can spin the headstock by hand. It looks like the belts are okay. I have been cleaning things up and today I mounted the legs so I can get the bottom pan off to see if there is anything physically wrong with the motor or the wiring. Is there anything I should do before assuming the motor is burned out?

Oh, the paper clip is crossed out so when I try to add pictures, it doesn't do anything.

Browser? Any options set that would cause that?

BTW the forum sw limits us to 800w x 600h. Your pix are 600w x 800h. The height is too big.(800 > 600) That is likely causing the 'x'. The limit applies to each dimension separately.

[ATTACH]23066[/ATTACH]

Notice the wide 'rib' on the top, That is another indication of an 'A' headstock.

The 'A" headstock is a sand casting and is heavier than the later die castings. That makes for rougher edges/finish. I prefer them to the later castings. JMHO!;) All the machined bores are the same.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Must be getting old!

I fergit to mention the motor.

Most likely the internal start switch has crud between the point preventing them from making and energizing the start coils. Bill Mayo has used banging on the motor pan with a rubber mallet to dislodge the crud.

If the motor has an external start relay(GE Motor?) it's contacts maybe the culprit.(or a wire has come loose from the relay terminals.

So try the banging first and say three HMFOGs clutching beads with the other hand and head bowed. Keep yer eyes open for trajectory control(unless yer 'faith' is absolute).

If that fails, internal inspection comes next.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jere
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Post by jere »

JPG40504 wrote:Must be getting old!

I fergit to mention the motor.

Most likely the internal start switch has crud between the point preventing them from making and energizing the start coils. Bill Mayo has used banging on the motor pan with a rubber mallet to dislodge the crud.

If the motor has an external start relay(GE Motor?) it's contacts maybe the culprit.(or a wire has come loose from the relay terminals.

So try the banging first and say three HMFOGs clutching beads with the other hand and head bowed. Keep yer eyes open for trajectory control(unless yer 'faith' is absolute).

If that fails, internal inspection comes next.
How about the bearings on the motor, any chance they need oiled or cleaned?
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