have PORKCHOPs gotten any harder?

[JPG]

this is interresting to me, If i may ask a related question.
when dialing my V 500 to slowest point , the last 1/4 of the dial get harder to back off. I go from using the dial handle to full hand grip on the dial to back it all the way down. what should I look into here. Thanks for sharing your question, info and pic.

Look for what you see in de first pix. The 'wear' on that one appears to be straight, but offset. Most I have seen are also skewed and offset.

As the worm gear gets closer to the 'slow' end of the porkchop travel, the skew distance is greater and likely the wear is less.

Getting Bill's 'fix' can prevent further damage and you may be able to salvage the one you have. I say that sight unseen!;)

Also insufficient sheave/shaft lubrication can cause that. If the sheaves are crudded up, considerable force is required to move them.

If well lubricated they move ever so easily!!!

Truth be 'exposed', running the control through it's entire range occasionally(just before exiting the shop fer the day) will distribute the oil and help prevent crudding up. Then leave it at 'slow' setting.

[dusty]

this is interresting to me, If i may ask a related question.
when dialing my V 500 to slowest point , the last 1/4 of the dial get harder to back off. I go from using the dial handle to full hand grip on the dial to back it all the way down. what should I look into here. Thanks for sharing your question, info and pic.

There is a recognizable difference in feel when adjusting even the best of our speed controls. Open up your headstock so that you can watch what happens when you change speeds and you will see why. The sheaves move in and out changing the tension on the belts. Of most significance is the motor sheave. The motor sheave is spring loaded thus keeping pressure on the drive belt. At one extreme the belt is fully embedded in the sheave while at the other extreme the belt rides high in the sheave. When it is high in the sheave the pressure on the sides of the drive belt are minimal (relatively). It is that difference that you sense when running the speed dial up and down.

The other sheave moves in and out the same way but it floats on the shaft and does not contribute as much to the tactile feel of running the speed dial up and down.

This, however is where the porkchop comes into play. The porkchop is part of the gear mechanism that produces the speed change. That gear mechanism (driven by the operator) pushes the upper sheave in (causing the belt to ride higher and higher in the pulley groove) which simultaneously causes the drive belt to go lower in the sheave spreading the motor sheaves apart (contrary to what the spring is attempting to do).

Going toward low speed, motor spring tension increases. You feel that increasing spring tension as you approach the low speed setting. Simultaneously, the porkchop gear is being disfigured.

mountainbreeze: I lubricate the porkchop with Bostik Topcoat.

[drbailey]

JPG thanks, I went out and removed the inspection plate from the head stock schroud. the worm gear and flat gear on speed control and the quill are in very good condition. all worm and flat gear are good flat edges and no indentions on any gear.
I didn't mean to intrude on anyones thread, this was very helpful to me. thanks much.

[drbailey]

Dusty, I watched as I dialed down, all works smoothly to the letter "E" and "F" setting, from there down it is stiffer to turn , but not impossible(slowly)
I dont have a maintenance book or CD, wish I had a CD.
You guys are top shelf with info, but I feel like a pain bothering you all the time. I removed the spring loaded shive the other night, LOL, wow , a chore getting back on. I made my own tool for that. Kinda hate to tear into anything without a book of steps to read about.

[beeg]

So what is it that people use to lube the pork chop? I use toilet bowl beeswax, but if your in a colder environment it can get stiff.

[dusty]

Dusty, I watched as I dialed down, all works smoothly to the letter "E" and "F" setting, from there down it is stiffer to turn , but not impossible(slowly)
I dont have a maintenance book or CD, wish I had a CD.
You guys are top shelf with info, but I feel like a pain bothering you all the time. I removed the spring loaded shive the other night, LOL, wow , a chore getting back on. I made my own tool for that. Kinda hate to tear into anything without a book of steps to read about.

Questions are what this forum is all about. Without questions the forum would likely go silent.

The manual, in my opinion, does not do well in explaining much of what is typically discussed hereon the forum. Your chore of dismantling and reassembling the motor drive shaft and sheaves is a good example.

The Sawdust Sessions were headed in the right direction. If they had been allowed to continue, I believe they would have become a great source of information for Shopsmith users. Even now, they are very helpful.

[JPG]

JPG thanks, I went out and removed the inspection plate from the head stock schroud. the worm gear and flat gear on speed control and the quill are in very good condition. all worm and flat gear are good flat edges and no indentions on any gear.
I didn't mean to intrude on anyones thread, this was very helpful to me. thanks much.

Apology not needed IMHO!

Dusty I apologize for I must state disagreement re the cause fer de tactile feedback difference.

The porkchop does indeed press against the control sheave and cause it to move when adjusting the speed control towards slow.

Regardless of where the sheave is located the squeeze placed on the belt is the same(the angle of the sheaves is constant).

It is the belt squeezing that provides the tactile feedback.

That squeezing increases tension on the belt which causes the floating sheave to move out on the motor shaft thus restoring equal 'normal' tension.

The resultant pulley ratio change reduces the speed.

Now the porkchop moves away from the control sheave when adjusting the speed control towards fast.

Indeed the control sheave normally pushes against the porkchop all the time(that be why the button/bearing are there). The 'clip' prevents the button from rotating only(it should never be pulled by the porkchop).

As such the force of the control sheave against the porkchop assists moving the porkchop(consider it an unintended power assist!:D).

As the control sheave opening up will decrease belt tension, the spring on the motor shaft will move the floating sheave in thus again restoring 'normality'.

The resultant pulley ratio will cause the speed to increase.

Now all that sheave sliding on the shafts motion is dependent upon adequate lubrication between the sheaves and the shafts.

If the shafts are crudded up, they will not move freely/quickly and excessive force need be applied.

Tis a lack of floating sheave movement for the 'Do Not Turn the Dial Unless Running' admonition.

We already be discussing porkchop wear/distortion. Add bearing clip distortion. As I stated above, It ain't supposed to be pulled by the porkchop, but only to restrain the button from rotating.

Regardless of it's pristine condition, get Bill's tension pin replacement 'kit'.

[JPG]

Again I fergit to give a direct answer to the 'original' question, but provided info fer 'self figgering'.

Since you have had the floating sheave/spring etc off the shaft. I assume they have been well lubricated.

Do you recall if the key/keyway were in a possible bind condition?

Are the vanes on the motor pulley sheaves interfereing.

If no to both questions, I would examine the control sheave/idler shaft next. A complete inspection requires removal of the speed control so the control sheave can be removed from the shaft.

As an alternative to that, set the speed to fast, remove the motor pulley belt(make it loose away from the idler pulley), slide the clip off the end of the porkchop. That should free the control sheave to be manually moved on the shaft. If crud(or vane interference) is causing the initial binding of the speed control knob, you should be able to really feel it as the sheave approaches an almost closed position. The sheaves periphery should close to slightly less that 1/2" separation.

FWIW, dropping the motor/pan makes this easier!

[drbailey]

So Im thinking that I should do a complete bench inspection and cleaning maintenance on the stock head.
I think this because its obvious that the machine has set a lot, not so much wear and tear as setting.
Am I looking at this in the right way? besides I have always like tearing things apart
BTW I did email Bill the spring loaded shiv is working very freely and is well oiled at this time.

[JPG]

So Im thinking that I should do a complete bench inspection and cleaning maintenance on the stock head.
I think this because its obvious that the machine has set a lot, not so much wear and tear as setting.
Am I looking at this in the right way? besides I have always like tearing things apart
BTW I did email Bill the spring loaded shiv is working very freely and is well oiled at this time.

I believe so!:)

You will have more confidence in both the machine and your ability to 'fix' it if you do so.

Holler if ya encounter something that confuses ya!;)