Ideas to Attach Hollowing Rig to Tail Stock

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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

I heard from Stan Townsend and he has a version available for the Shopsmith without us doing anything crazy, it does not connect to the tailstock it connects to the rails with a special bottom bolt clip .

When you order you just need to let him know you want it for a Shopsmith.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
roy_okc
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Post by roy_okc »

Paul,

The adapter he is talking about is the mini lathe extension that he used at last week's demo. This would also require some extra finagling as we would have to have long pieces of steel, maybe a couple pieces of a hard wood, to extend across the bottom rails and then bolt his extension to that. This is my final fallback plan, but would prefer mounting somehow to the tailstock.

As for a morse taper idea, this is what Stan wrote back earlier today:

Roy I have been unsucessful in using the tailstock taper in several tries. It just won't support the twist and vibration. My minilathe extension will clamp to the two rails and give a solid mount that will resist the torque and vibration. I also looked at using a 1.25 vertical tube in the tailstock mounting holes but cannot go from 1.25 to some thing I can clamp onto horizontally. Therefore a separate mounting is recomended. Stan

So, looks like I'll next check out Chuck's recommendation whenever it dries up enough for a free weekend (i.e., at least next month) so I can get out to my shop.

Roy
roy_okc
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Post by roy_okc »

Gary, I have not seen those episodes that you mentioned. However, this rig is to hollow the inside of turnings, where I believe the duplicator only handles the outside. You use the laser as a visual guide, after setting the distance from the cutting tip, so that you can get a fairly accurate idea of the wall thickness.

The way Stan demoed it, he turned the outside using normal handheld chisels. Turned a shallow hole maybe an inch or so in diameter at the end. Then attached the Elbotool to hollow out the vessel. When he started getting near to the desired thickness, he attached the laser to show how to use that. Adjust the laser to the left of the point, say 1/4", and pointing straight down. Continue hollowing, and the laser should be shining on the wood. When the laser gets to the point that it is no longer on the wood, you're at your desired wall thickness.

Roy
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

roy_okc wrote:Paul,

The adapter he is talking about is the mini lathe extension that he used at last week's demo. This would also require some extra finagling as we would have to have long pieces of steel, maybe a couple pieces of a hard wood, to extend across the bottom rails and then bolt his extension to that. This is my final fall back plan, but would prefer mounting somehow to the tail-stock.
Roy

What is wrong with the mini-lathe option if he provides all the "finagling" parts. In his email to me he said he would provide everything I need. I ma waiting to see what that is and what it costs, this will be my Birthday present from my better half.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

paulmcohen wrote:I think I got mine from Packard but you can Google them and fine lots of #2 Morse extensers from as low as $7 to well over $40 depending on where made.

The $7 ones are made where.....?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

dusty wrote:The $7 ones are made where.....?

China and the quality shows.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
roy_okc
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Post by roy_okc »

Paul,

I just called Stan, discussing the two options. He's going to try turning down a 2" dia tube to fit the tailstock. He has a nearby friend who has a SS, so he can get good measurements there. He also thought that would probably be a bit better than designing a way to mount it on the tubes. He thought he might have done by early next week with a price.

I think I'd rather buy a spare tailstock to put it in to allow quick change versus bolting the extension on/off. A new complete tailstock assembly is $50, so essentially a wash versus buying the extension (which I might buy anyhow in case I decide to buy a mini).

What are your thoughts?

Roy
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

As long as I don't to machine something I don't care which way. Someday I am going to buy a mini metal lathe, with all the money I spend on little metal parts it would pay for itself quickly.

Heard from Stan again and he has a $18 solution to mount the tool to Shopsmith tailstock, it consists a $15 tailstock adapter and $3 worth of screws. This is the way I plan on going.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
roy_okc
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Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:15 pm
Location: Moore, OK

Post by roy_okc »

paulmcohen wrote:Heard from Stan again and he has a $18 solution to mount the tool to Shopsmith tailstock, it consists a $15 tailstock adapter and $3 worth of screws. This is the way I plan on going.
Same here.
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

roy_okc wrote:Same here.

I don't plan on ordering until June, if you get the whole thing figured out port the order list here or send me mail.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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