Good evening all.
I'm ready to glue up a few boxes (aprox 7x5x6 high). They have miter cut corners and I intend on splining them afterwards. However what type of tape would you all suggest for glue up and do you just tape it up dry and then unfold it-glue-and wrap it back up?
What about rubber bands and/or clamps?
Taping up small mitered boxes
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Beveling
I aslo thought maybe beveling the tops would look nice, should I do that before glue up and do each piece or wait until its glued up (tear out a problem maybe)?
Which beveling method would you suggest? Small parts might make a difference.
Which beveling method would you suggest? Small parts might make a difference.
R Hart
-
shipwright
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1160
- Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
- Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
- Contact:
I'm getting double vision. I just answered this same question on LJ and then I came here only to find it again. Even more intriguing, the LJ poster was using your name.
I suggested you consider hot hide glue and referred you to a couple of my blogs on the subject. I started using it a couple of years ago and now only use PVA glues for big non critical jobs where assembly time won't permit HHG use and where LHG would be too expensive. For something like boxes it is superior in so many ways. (IMHO)
Anyone else who is interested, these are the links.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/24062
I suggested you consider hot hide glue and referred you to a couple of my blogs on the subject. I started using it a couple of years ago and now only use PVA glues for big non critical jobs where assembly time won't permit HHG use and where LHG would be too expensive. For something like boxes it is superior in so many ways. (IMHO)
Anyone else who is interested, these are the links.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/24062
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
mrhart wrote:Good evening all.
I'm ready to glue up a few boxes (aprox 7x5x6 high). They have miter cut corners and I intend on splining them afterwards. However what type of tape would you all suggest for glue up and do you just tape it up dry and then unfold it-glue-and wrap it back up?
What about rubber bands and/or clamps?
I have used blue painter's tape to hold them together while the glue dries with good success. It doesn't leave a residue nor does it pull out wood fibers when it is removed. Yup, tape it dry-fit to get it just how you want it, unfold it, add glue, and put it back together. I have also used rubber bands and bungee cord (without the hooks) but there is a tendency for them to get caught in the glue squeeze-out.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
I use blue tape too.
Just to throw it in the hopper as another alternative to mitered corners: I purchased a 45 deg. interlocking miter router bit as pictured on the box below. I purchased it at Woodcraft Supply several years ago, partly because it was on sale and I was intrigued by it. Finally tried it in September mounting it in my woodshaper. It worked like a dream, especially on glue-up as it eliminated making a spline, tape and slippage problems. A couple of clamps and it was good to go.
[ATTACH]23419[/ATTACH]
Just to throw it in the hopper as another alternative to mitered corners: I purchased a 45 deg. interlocking miter router bit as pictured on the box below. I purchased it at Woodcraft Supply several years ago, partly because it was on sale and I was intrigued by it. Finally tried it in September mounting it in my woodshaper. It worked like a dream, especially on glue-up as it eliminated making a spline, tape and slippage problems. A couple of clamps and it was good to go.
[ATTACH]23419[/ATTACH]
- Attachments
-
- IMG_20130820_091541_785.jpg (67.09 KiB) Viewed 1661 times
WmZiggy
williamz@aol.com
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
williamz@aol.com
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
The method I have viewed (not used) is to first lay the chosen tape one or more lengths, sticky side up, on a flat surface. Then lay the box sides,with corner edges joined on top of the tape. Then after making sure the tape has adhered, put glue on the miters and pull the joints together by pulling the ends of the tape together.
you can use several lengths of tape all at the same time- top, bottom and center(s) of the sides.
Your original question was concerning the type of tape. I don't think that matters much. You could use blue tape or even carpet tape. You just don't want the tape to tear.
Some day maybe I'll make a box using this method.
you can use several lengths of tape all at the same time- top, bottom and center(s) of the sides.
Your original question was concerning the type of tape. I don't think that matters much. You could use blue tape or even carpet tape. You just don't want the tape to tear.
Some day maybe I'll make a box using this method.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
shipwright wrote:I'm getting double vision. I just answered this same question on LJ and then I came here only to find it again. Even more intriguing, the LJ poster was using your name.
I suggested you consider hot hide glue and referred you to a couple of my blogs on the subject. I started using it a couple of years ago and now only use PVA glues for big non critical jobs where assembly time won't permit HHG use and where LHG would be too expensive. For something like boxes it is superior in so many ways. (IMHO)
Anyone else who is interested, these are the links.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/24062
I think I know that guy. He's a SOB if I've ever met one...
The hide glue might be a good idea. The Gorilla glue I've always used interferes with final sanding. Maybe everyone has this issue and I should switch all together.
I hate to spend time on projects for someone and have the glue appearance be the weak point.
Blue tape or packing tape I saw on a video I think.
Thank you sir.
R Hart
-
joshh
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 723
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:53 pm
- Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas
mrhart wrote:I think I know that guy. He's a SOB if I've ever met one...
The hide glue might be a good idea. The Gorilla glue I've always used interferes with final sanding. Maybe everyone has this issue and I should switch all together.
I hate to spend time on projects for someone and have the glue appearance be the weak point.
Blue tape or packing tape I saw on a video I think.
Thank you sir.
Matthias Wandel did a video comparison of gorilla glue vs Elmer's yellow. The results were surprising. Any gap and gorilla glue just doesn't hold up.
I tossed my gorilla glue (if that tells you anything about my attempted joints)
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
Thanks for the help all. I used the blue tape as my initial wrap and then went over it with clear packing tape to pull in the corners tighter.
I think I did well with my miters, the boxes were 6 inches or so tall, so a good 45 was necessary. I used a Wixey digital protractor for set up and they came out good!
The SS has done well for me in tablesaw mode but made me nervous on some small parts and I used it to rip 6 inch boards from both sides, then handsawing the middle. That got old, used a sawzall with a long blade.
My wifes box has an ebony trim. Spendy, but messy crap. Looks like I was making coal projects. Black everywhere, on all my tools and jigs and benches, blkack death dust everywhere, and it was two little pieces. I touched my face and I looked like Dick Vann Dyke from Mary Poppins when I wa done. (I'm not really that old...just heard about that show)
I'll post pics of things at closer to the last minute.
I think I did well with my miters, the boxes were 6 inches or so tall, so a good 45 was necessary. I used a Wixey digital protractor for set up and they came out good!
The SS has done well for me in tablesaw mode but made me nervous on some small parts and I used it to rip 6 inch boards from both sides, then handsawing the middle. That got old, used a sawzall with a long blade.
My wifes box has an ebony trim. Spendy, but messy crap. Looks like I was making coal projects. Black everywhere, on all my tools and jigs and benches, blkack death dust everywhere, and it was two little pieces. I touched my face and I looked like Dick Vann Dyke from Mary Poppins when I wa done. (I'm not really that old...just heard about that show)
I'll post pics of things at closer to the last minute.
R Hart