Mark 7 voltage plug

BuckeyeDennis · Post by **BuckeyeDennis** » Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:02 pm

Here is an example of what appears to be a well-designed multi-voltage adapter plug system.

It wasn't clear to me if you can buy the mating connector for the machine power cord separately.

If not, you could achieve the same result by mounting an appropriate non-standard connector on your power cord (that will not plug into any standard power receptacle). Then make two adapter cords -- one for 120V, and the other for 240V.

onevw · Post by **onevw** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:02 am

Easy and Safe

https://youtube.googleapis.com/v/STSFHu ... autoplay=1

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:43 am

onevw wrote:Easy and Safe

https://youtube.googleapis.com/v/STSFHu3qPQo%26autoplay=1

Explain the 'easy' part.

Where does one obtain the 'power cord'.

Did ya check out the 'plug' prices?:eek::eek:

Practical? I think not!

onevw · Post by **onevw** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:59 am

JPG40504 wrote:Explain the 'easy' part.

Where does one obtain the 'power cord'.

Did ya check out the 'plug' prices?:eek::eek:

Practical? I think not!

Any Miller dealer and Ebay as well

Easy= just replace the power cord in the head unit with the one from Miller

Practical=no one could accidentally plug a 120 volt unit into a 220 volt plug with.
this system.

These are a good idea I have serval welders with this type of plug and they work as described.

About $80.00 for the cable not sure if you then need to buy the ends when bought new. I bought my cord off ebay it came with one 120 volt 20 amp end.

RICK

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:08 pm

I really like the Miller system as posted by onevw (post #12). Don't really have a need right now, but will keep this system in mind for future reference.

Thanks for posting - onevw!:D

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:09 pm

$80 = 'impractical'.

Having to freplace the original power pro power cord = impractical.

Eliminating possible misapplication = 'desirable'.

I be curious if there are 4 wires(maybe 5 including ground?) in the Miller cord, And how they are connected to the power pro.

So I guess it is a matter of value judgement for the opposing attributes!;)

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:00 pm

So how about this.

A bud box, hole/notch/slot for powerpro cord. Cord would go inside the box and have a plug to plug into (120V?). Key lock the box shut, interlock if necessary.

The box has a 120V male and a 220V male with a slide panel so only one can be used at a time. This would also protect anyone from touching the non-used one.

Once put together the box is locked, the only outlet available is in the box. Since the powerpro senses the voltage it is fine. A plain drop cord 120V can plug into the wall and then the bud box. The 220V is covered over and there is no access. When you want to go to 220V the 120 drop cord has to be removed so the slide can be moved to allow the 220V cord to plug in, covering the 120 side.

Plenty of room for labels and warnings and if you wanted to add some filtering that could be done too.

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:50 pm

reible wrote:So how about this.

A bud box, hole/notch/slot for powerpro cord. Cord would go inside the box and have a plug to plug into (120V?). Key lock the box shut, interlock if necessary.

The box has a 120V male and a 220V male with a slide panel so only one can be used at a time. This would also protect anyone from touching the non-used one.

Once put together the box is locked, the only outlet available is in the box. Since the powerpro senses the voltage it is fine. A plain drop cord 120V can plug into the wall and then the bud box. The 220V is covered over and there is no access. When you want to go to 220V the 120 drop cord has to be removed so the slide can be moved to allow the 220V cord to plug in, covering the 120 side.

Plenty of room for labels and warnings and if you wanted to add some filtering that could be done too.

Ed

You might need to explain what a bud box' is.

Bud box.

PP power cord terminates inside the box(internal 115v receptacle?)

Box has one each 115v and 230v male connector.(pigtails would be ok)

Internal DPDT switch(selects male connector that connects to PP power cord(internal receptacle)

Ditto on the filtering.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:07 am

Perhaps if they don't know what a bud box is then maybe they shouldn't be messing with this. But if you don't know or have not yet used google then think of a "project box" for electronics and then think of a trade name for one of those boxes and you will be pretty close.

Choice of box mounted/pigtail as well as mechanical or electrical isolation can be based on what is cheapest. I'm not planning to build one but if I were I would check prices and go from there. (If you happen to have an old pc power supply I bet you could steal the plug and even filtering from that as part of the box.)

Anyway another idea on the cheap side.

Ed

JPG40504 wrote:You might need to explain what a bud box' is.

Bud box.

PP power cord terminates inside the box(internal 115v receptacle?)

Box has one each 115v and 230v male connector.(pigtails would be ok)

Internal DPDT switch(selects male connector that connects to PP power cord(internal receptacle)

Ditto on the filtering.

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:31 am

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Here is an example of what appears to be a well-designed multi-voltage adapter plug system.

It wasn't clear to me if you can buy the mating connector for the machine power cord separately.

If not, you could achieve the same result by mounting an appropriate non-standard connector on your power cord (that will not plug into any standard power receptacle). Then make two adapter cords -- one for 120V, and the other for 240V.

So I looked at the web page and then looked at the video that onevw referenced and decided to go on an adventure. Braved the cold (both passenger doors are frozen shut!) and went to my Miller welding supply dealer where I found nearly nothing. Without a specific serial number for a welder, finding parts is nearly impossible. I've written to the Ebay vendor that sells these and asked how many wires, and if a longer cord is available. Hopefully some answer by next week.

The cable with both connectors is available for $100 and before JPG swallows his teeth, SS wants $35 plus SH for their existing one. No, I'd never pay that much for one, but if I could get a no muss no fuss solution for double that, yes I would!

Since SS is not going to pay me in product for my fantastic adjustable height idea

I sent them an email asking them to look into contacting Miller R&D to find the manufacturer of the cable to see if they might make a small production run. SS cost at about $60 or less so a cost to us of $70 plus SH is not outrageous considering all the gyrations people are going through to design SAFE pigtails. I even went on to suggest that new Mark 7 owners get the cord as part of their purchase. I would ask for retroactive but I'm not that nuts!

Okay. maybe I AM that nuts, but I still wouldn't ask.

In part of a thread, there was an excellent set of plugs that someone found for mixing and matching 110 and 220, but it's STILL modifying existing product and MIGHT (if SS so chooses), void a warranty. This could provide a "from the factory" solution.

Many thanks to Dennis for finding this and onevw for the video link.

Supposed to be a high of minus 9 tomorrow with minus 50 wind chill and we got a few more inches of snow today bring the yard depth to almost 26 inches!:eek: Time to hibernate!

Be well,
Ben

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Mark 7 voltage plug

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