Greenie Rebuild - 3rd/4th gen

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How about using a large plastic trash can.

Genius! I was thinking in two dimensions rather than three.

[JPG]

I'm not going to rush this because, well, I won't have the time to even rush it. Between work and kids I'll be lucky to get a couple consistent hours each week. That said, I got a good day this weekend and was able to start the Citristrip. For anyone wondering, yeah that stuff works.

Bad before picture:
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Better after picture (about half the items done):
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I had my space heater running just on the right side of the frame and used that to drive off any lingering moisture. Some items still have paint, particularly the newer tie bar, and I'll either wire wheel them or let them sit with more Citristrip longer. The remaining parts include the headstock, legs, jointer, and a few base/carriage pieces.

I also got some parts into the evaporust (off-brand actually) and scrubbed parts down to remove dirt. Pretty happy with that, got some pretty rusty parts back out as bright silver and then put them all in an oven at 175 to dry them all the way out. I chucked up a cleaning wheel in my drill and worked on on of the table bolts]Green ones look just like gray ones.[/B]
- Got a 3" hole saw to cut the access hole. I've never drilled metal so first time being on the family heirloom has me a bit nervous. I'll also need to be sure about where the hole is relative to the posts and I need to decide how to make the badge attachment before I permanently drill the headstock. The hole is centered between the current holes.
- How to drill the sheave for an oil hole. I still need to figure out if I need to drill anything or if replacements will have those. I think the lower fan sheave is staying and it doesn't have a hole so at least that.A 'v-block' will be handy to drill into that 'cylinder'. Drill it over the keyway. The new control sheave will have the hole.
- I cannot find an expansion plug for my way tube setup! Every store now carries these plastic numbers without any metal; I may need to order this off Amazon. You looking in the plumbing department, or an auto parts store. Go to auto parts store, ask fer a freeze plug.
- I'm going to do electrolysis for the major pieces. How to do the legs with their huge size/bulky shape?
- Can the tubes be removed from the main table, accessory table, and jointer? It would be easier to de-rust the inside that way. Jointer, yes, main table, not easily(not recommended), extension table legs are screwed on.
- How do you remove the depth of cut gauge from the jointer? It's riveted in as far as I can tell and I don't want to mar it or be unable to reattach it.Don't remove it.
- What about painting the letters of the various handle? Maybe not the grid but at least the letters. I never look at the words but it always feels like they should be more legible.

The lettering and scale can be painted, then the excess removed before it dries much with a solvent dampened rag. If you are referring to the wing nuts, do not bother!

Looking good!!!!

[JPG]

Genius! I was thinking in two dimensions rather than three.

A smaller(shallower) storage container will work as long as half can get wet at a time. Just takes twice as long.

FWIW, you will likely be rotating the leg depending upon the location of the anode(sacrificial lamb). The chemical action is essentially line of sight.

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Long week and didn't feel like much progress was made but:

- Citristrip on headstock, belt cover, motor pan, tube assemblies (?), tie bar (again), and jointer fence.
- Pulled jointer bearings
- Jointer cutterhead in Evapo-rust
- Accessory arbors in Evapo-rust

Since I'm still undecided about taking the handles to a polish I took a nylon (blue) cleaning brush head to a few pieces. Without the rest of the paint job to compare to I'm still not sure, I might be okay with restoring it to working/clean order. What I did notice was some kind of weird bumpiness, not corrosion but rather raised rough areas. I'll add some pictures tomorrow but I noticed it on the miter gauge stop assembly, the bar the jointer fence rides on, and the top/front of the miter gauge.

The paint is STILL sticking on that newer tie bar assembly. I think I'm just going to take a flap wheel to it and other items that are not giving up paint. The headstock also had some still on and other items need work too so it's the most effective approach.

I had planned on starting out some electrolysis so I took the little man to a scrap yard. His eagle eyes spotted some 1/2" thick steel squares (6x6) and a nice long piece of 3/8" (?) steel. 60 lbs of steel cost me $20 bucks, pretty good considering what I was looking at from one of the big box stores for new. I need to read up on how to do all this, I'm hoping I can just take some copper wire to connect these in the bath.

I grabbed a set of female connectors to fix my power cord. I realized that with the damage I could just cut the wire back to that point, put on new connectors, and save myself $35.

I'll need to find bearing replacements for the jointer, I think I was reading something about Accurate bearings and that actually has a warehouse close to where I work. Maybe I can save some money on shipping.

I upgraded the quill to double bearing a few years ago, do I need to replace any other bearings while I'm ordering?

I'd seen an Ebay listing for a motor rebuild and this is a possibility if I want to keep the 3/4 hp. A new 1 1/8 hp motor from ShopSmith is $358 but I've seen one on Ebay, rebuilt by the same guy doing the rebuilds above, for $299. So is the additional 3/8 hp worth the additional $130 assuming I got the Ebay motor?

[billmayo]

Long week and didn't feel like much progress was made but:

- Citristrip on headstock, belt cover, motor pan, tube assemblies (?), tie bar (again), and jointer fence.
- Pulled jointer bearings
- Jointer cutterhead in Evapo-rust
- Accessory arbors in Evapo-rust

Since I'm still undecided about taking the handles to a polish I took a nylon (blue) cleaning brush head to a few pieces. Without the rest of the paint job to compare to I'm still not sure, I might be okay with restoring it to working/clean order. What I did notice was some kind of weird bumpiness, not corrosion but rather raised rough areas. I'll add some pictures tomorrow but I noticed it on the miter gauge stop assembly, the bar the jointer fence rides on, and the top/front of the miter gauge.

The paint is STILL sticking on that newer tie bar assembly. I think I'm just going to take a flap wheel to it and other items that are not giving up paint. The headstock also had some still on and other items need work too so it's the most effective approach.

I had planned on starting out some electrolysis so I took the little man to a scrap yard. His eagle eyes spotted some 1/2" thick steel squares (6x6) and a nice long piece of 3/8" (?) steel. 60 lbs of steel cost me $20 bucks, pretty good considering what I was looking at from one of the big box stores for new. I need to read up on how to do all this, I'm hoping I can just take some copper wire to connect these in the bath.

I grabbed a set of female connectors to fix my power cord. I realized that with the damage I could just cut the wire back to that point, put on new connectors, and save myself $35.

I'll need to find bearing replacements for the jointer, I think I was reading something about Accurate bearings and that actually has a warehouse close to where I work. Maybe I can save some money on shipping.

I upgraded the quill to double bearing a few years ago, do I need to replace any other bearings while I'm ordering?

I'd seen an Ebay listing for a motor rebuild and this is a possibility if I want to keep the 3/4 hp. A new 1 1/8 hp motor from ShopSmith is $358 but I've seen one on Ebay, rebuilt by the same guy doing the rebuilds above, for $299. So is the additional 3/8 hp worth the additional $130 assuming I got the Ebay motor?

Please contact me off line as I may be able to save you some money on any parts that you are looking for. I just disassembled a late model headstock that only had very few hours on it.

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Parts are coming in from all over now. I've been trying to get all this paint stripped off but I'm not getting total success. Citrstrip is leaving paint AND citristrip, HF soda blaster is spotty at best, and the wire wheel strips off more metal than paint. I've got a request for a quote on media blasting now. I figure I'm deep enough in that it may be worth the money to get to a consistent base. Tubes are in the electrolysis and I even have rebar wired in to remove the inner tube rust. I felt pretty clever when I thought of that but I'm sure I wasn't the first.

Need to post some pics, look up access hole mods, and ask some more questions.

[JPG]

Parts are coming in from all over now. I've been trying to get all this paint stripped off but I'm not getting total success. Citrstrip is leaving paint AND citristrip, HF soda blaster is spotty at best, and the wire wheel strips off more metal than paint. I've got a request for a quote on media blasting now. I figure I'm deep enough in that it may be worth the money to get to a consistent base. Tubes are in the electrolysis and I even have rebar wired in to remove the inner tube rust. I felt pretty clever when I thought of that but I'm sure I wasn't the first.

Need to post some pics, look up access hole mods, and ask some more questions.

No you are not the first to worry about the inside. Most here thought I was nuts!:D Evaporust bath takes care of both inside and outside.

You must not allow the citrus strip to dry out. If it does, reapply and start brushing(nylon works ok). Electrolysis will remove the paint(steel parts only).

At this point IIWY, I would not get a larger motor.

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JPG, I'm curious why you wouldn't get the larger motor at this point? I actually ordered from Bill already along with several components and I'm actually a little giddy about getting some more highly machined components. My hope is that it should pretty much purr when it's all said and done.

Once I replaced the capacitor and the power switch, blown and faulty respectively, I was able to get the 3/4 hp motor fired back up. When I did you could hear what I assume is a faulty bearing and 50 years of accumulated dust and debris. Blew that out but the sound remains so I'm upgrading the motor and perhaps I'll have this one rebuilt. Not sure what I'll do with an extra motor but I'm sure there's a use for it.

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The baby's back to sleep, bench tubes are in the electrolysis, and I'm up. Here's some photos and updates.

Adding some progress photos.

CitriStrip in action (not that you can see the action)
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Jointer cutter head. I though this thing was BLACK! Turns out it was just filthy. You may notice the mark on the center of the rod, that's from the bearing puller.
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Shots of the miter gauge. I've got this aluminum oxide in several places all over the Shopsmith. Another good argument for sand blasting and a reason to cover it up when not in use. At least, I think I heard that covering it up helps.
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60 lbs of plate steel = $20. the piece on the left side is 1/4" and 4' long, the two stubs are 1/2" each.
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Bath box for the legs that I built after my big plastic bin sprung a leak. If I'd had a brain I could have probably just put that plastic tarp in the bucket but it didn't occur to me. You can see the 4' piece I cut down to 2' so I could bracket the pieces on either side. Got a new angle grinder out of it!
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5 picture limit? Inconceivable!

Cleaning up a leg with Jonathan. We were using rough nylon wheels and this was after the plastic bin failed. I was frustrated and figured I'd just do this for the whole thing but changed my mind shortly thereafter.
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The silver is what Jonathan got done. The electrolysis before bin failure is responsible for most of that and the demarcation/water line is what sold me on building a better box to use.
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Leg cooking sideways. I need to get a picture of what they look like now with all the lines crisscrossing. Not as pretty as the previous pic with the flash rust though.
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Caster rods and pivot pins before.
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Caster rods and pivot pins after.
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