Ring Master, the questions

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reible
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Post by reible »

Revision

Yea its going below zero again tonight and we are hoping the snow track for the weekend goes way south of us but not as far south as where JPG lives.

Ed

JPG40504 wrote:Not this far south I hope!:eek:
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benush26
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Post by benush26 »

reible wrote:Ah the paradox of last place you look, and when it is also the first place. I fear a crack in the continuum of time if that happens.....

Yea its going below zero again tonight and we are hoping the snow track for the weekend goes way south of us.

Ed
I thought everyone has a crack in the continuum in their back yard.

I asked my neighbor to call his cat at the same time I did.

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He hasn't asked to borrow any thing since then! :eek: :D I guess he's afraid he won't know when he arrived or got back!!

Be well,
Ben
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

benush26 wrote:I thought everyone has a crack in the continuum in their back yard.

I asked my neighbor to call his cat at the same time I did.

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He hasn't asked to borrow any thing since then! :eek: :D I guess he's afraid he won't know when he arrived or got back!!

Be well,
Ben
That's hilarious! Especially at this time of night. :rolleyes:
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idcook
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Post by idcook »

reible wrote: Next I need to figure out where I put the machine. Moved so many things around in the shop that I now have several items hiding somewhere.
I suggest Miss Scarlet, in the cellar, with a Lead Pipe.
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reible
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Post by reible »

Not bad for a Monday (you know you can't trust that day).

I now have located the ringmaster!

The cutters I have in the light of day have some signs of excess heat. Maybe they are still OK but a little touch up of the cutting edge is in order.

I can now say that they are 3/16" square stock. The relief cut takes the blade down to 1/16". Mine measure 2-5/8" long.

It came with some rust which I think I'll clean up a bit before using it. Not all that bad but in the picture it looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.

Here are a couple of pictures. First one of the blades and then second the cutters mounted. I hope I have them mounted correctly, took it apart then when I went to put it back together I didn't remember which way it was.... yep manual time. If I got it wrong I'll let you know.

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Ed
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rpd
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Post by rpd »

reible wrote:Not bad for a Monday (you know you can't trust that day).

Ed
I like, "Come Monday, it will be alright." - J. Buffet, better.;)
Ron Dyck
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Wood ya sharpen them the same way ya wood a molder cutter. On the flat face?
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reible
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Post by reible »

The information I have says a diamond file along this edge only(see green arrow).

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The gauge paper work says 8 degrees but these are clearly 10 degrees??? I guess what's a few degrees anyway.

Ed





beeg wrote:Wood ya sharpen them the same way ya wood a molder cutter. On the flat face?
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reible
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Post by reible »

The next task for today was to come up with a blade holder for installing the blade square and true, and with the correct spacing.

I wasn't able to finish it but I did make progress.

I had a metal bar from a hanging file folder that I saved. I found my collection of small super magnets. Cut the hanger as shown.

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Put the magnets on one bar.

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Add second bar.

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Now it can pick up the cutters and put them in place and hold them there.

[ATTACH]24250[/ATTACH]

What is left is to make a wood holder and glue everything together, and mark the location of the blades for future reference. And add a locator for locating them on the ring master.

Piece of cake.

Ed
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reible
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Post by reible »

For those that own the ringmaster, at least the ones that are the same vintage as the one I own, the stick-on angle piece doesn't do much for setting the angles.

Since I own a digital angle gauge I figured I'd play with that for setting the angles.

Before we get to that I want to discuss how the angle is determined. Thanks to the example in the manual we know that make a drawing using the piece of wood and some lines that you draw in.

BTW

The on line manual from shopsmith is here:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... ING730.pdf

The text is readable but the figure, well at least on my screen it is to faint to see. So I've taken a photo from my manual, that is pretty clear.

[ATTACH]24295[/ATTACH]

The text gives you a few examples such as 3/4" wood then the angle is 22-1/2 degrees, 1/2" wood = 32 degrees, and 3/8" wood is 39-1/2 degrees. Other thicknesses are up to you and your drawing, or so it would seem.

Keep in mind this is for straight sided cuts.

This seems a bit of hard way of doing things so went ahead and used a bit of math to come up with a table that uses the actually thickness of the wood and the fixed 5/16" fixed scale.

At this point I'm unsure of just how accurate any of this needs to be. I started with 3/8" thick wood and went to 1" using 1/16" changes in wood thickness. The resulting angles seem to indicate the need for very precise scales, certainly beyond those on the ringmaster.

The sketch method makes you read an angle which then you need to apply to a device with less then precise implications. This is then an approximation of possible errors. Does it matter? I have no idea.

Since one can use spreadsheets like excel to do this sort of table I then when ahead and created one in openoffice calc. This time I started at the same 3/8" (.375) and stepped by .005 up to 1.00". This will allow one to use a digital caliper to take several readings and average those readings to with in .005". Is this needed? Still no idea.

I'm not at the point of actually harming wood at this point so this is only at the level of numeric data.

Now we are back to the use of the digital angle adjustments.

As mentioned I took several measurements (all of which were consistent) on the work piece. In this case .710"

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Going to my table and looking for the angle for that thickness of wood yields 23.76 degrees.

[ATTACH]24297[/ATTACH]

Next one needs to set that angle, not as easy it would seem to be, maybe the cold, maybe me, may be the instrument, or all of the above.

[ATTACH]24298[/ATTACH]

More to follow.

Ed
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