Keeping the rip fence parallel to the blade
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Keeping the rip fence parallel to the blade
This is a really basic question, but I've been having trouble keeping the rip fence parallel to the table saw blade. Each time I move it, it seems to shift away from parallel. Any advice? Thanks!
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My guess is the fence is not parallel to its own locks, the 520 fence can be adjusted, this should have been done as part of the upgrade process.
I would help more but I need to leave, I am sure someone else with answer before I return Monday.
I would help more but I need to leave, I am sure someone else with answer before I return Monday.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Are you pressing the fence base forward against the rail before locking it? If not, when you lock it the fence will move.bdorf1 wrote:I have a 510 upgraded to a 520. Although I have checked the miter slots in the last month, they were parallel then. What happens is that when the fence locks down, it shifts.
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Hi bdorf1,
Sounds like the fence is just out of adjustment. You really need to check this when doing an upgrade as you have.
The instructions that came with your new fence should show you how to do the adjustment. There are some adjustment screws on the top of the fence that allows you to move it parrallel to the blade.
Just make sure the table is adjusted parrallel to the blade first. Do not trust the miter slots unless this has been checked.
All the procedures for this is in your owners manual. Another good source for info is Rick Davis' DVD on maintenance and alignment. He has a lot of good advice and shows how to do this step-by-step for all the different Mark V models.
Sounds like the fence is just out of adjustment. You really need to check this when doing an upgrade as you have.
The instructions that came with your new fence should show you how to do the adjustment. There are some adjustment screws on the top of the fence that allows you to move it parrallel to the blade.
Just make sure the table is adjusted parrallel to the blade first. Do not trust the miter slots unless this has been checked.
All the procedures for this is in your owners manual. Another good source for info is Rick Davis' DVD on maintenance and alignment. He has a lot of good advice and shows how to do this step-by-step for all the different Mark V models.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
Woodburner:o
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Are you checking the fence for parallel after it is locked down?Bruce wrote:Are you pressing the fence base forward against the rail before locking it? If not, when you lock it the fence will move.
If you move it, and then set the distance without pressing forward, pushing the lower lever will set the fence to parallel and mess up your measurement. If it is parallel after locking, this is your problem. If it is not parallel, you will need to adjust the fence.
Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it!
(Except they closed the store.
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bdorf1,
I have a piece of 1x2 about 30" long that I have milled to fit firmly into the miter slots. It is clearly marked as an alignment tool and I keep it handy just for situations like this.
With the "tool" installed in the miter track, I slide the rip fence up against the "tool" until it just barely touches. I expect that the fence will touch the "tool" evenly from end to end. If it does not, it will be clearly visible.
With the fence up against the "tool", I lock the lower handle, I do not expect the fence to move. It should remain against the "tool" from end to end. As stated previously, press the rip fence firmly against the rail to square it before locking the lower lock handle.
The lower lock handle is designed to square the fence with the rail when locked but I don't depend upon that.
The four screws on the top of the fence can be loosened and the fence squared - if it is not. Then retighten the four screws and repeat.
NOTE: All of this pre-supposes that the table has been properly aligned per the procedures that other have referred to.
I have a piece of 1x2 about 30" long that I have milled to fit firmly into the miter slots. It is clearly marked as an alignment tool and I keep it handy just for situations like this.
With the "tool" installed in the miter track, I slide the rip fence up against the "tool" until it just barely touches. I expect that the fence will touch the "tool" evenly from end to end. If it does not, it will be clearly visible.
With the fence up against the "tool", I lock the lower handle, I do not expect the fence to move. It should remain against the "tool" from end to end. As stated previously, press the rip fence firmly against the rail to square it before locking the lower lock handle.
The lower lock handle is designed to square the fence with the rail when locked but I don't depend upon that.
The four screws on the top of the fence can be loosened and the fence squared - if it is not. Then retighten the four screws and repeat.
NOTE: All of this pre-supposes that the table has been properly aligned per the procedures that other have referred to.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Yours may not be such a basic question after all. Since you have a 510, upgraded to a 520, There is a solution for your problem that has not yet been addressed. There is a possibility that the 520 rails got warped (think that's the right word) a little bit during assembly. Nick posted the solution to this previously. I'll look for that post, but I'll bet there are a couple of guys that remember it and can find it faster than me. Someone was having this problem and persisted in writing about it until he got a solution.bdorf1 wrote:This is a really basic question, but I've been having trouble keeping the rip fence parallel to the table saw blade. Each time I move it, it seems to shift away from parallel. Any advice? Thanks!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Miter Slots and Table Bosses
Both of these deal with issues that could be related to your situation.
Hope these help.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=131
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=539
Hope these help.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=131
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=539
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.