Chamberlain Garage Door Opener

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:11 pm

[quote="wa2crk"]Dusty]
I've done some of that but not all. Why? Get ready for this.

It is again working. By that I mean the 1) master control works 2) both of the remotes work 3) I can start and stop the door at any location (up/down) with either control 4) the door touches down as though it knows that down is about to happen.

I don't know. I am confused and frustrated. My wife is fusing about having to spend several hundred for a new system. I think the system is fine.

We just can not use the remotes between the hours of 8:00am and 1:00pm.

The rest of the time - all is well.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:17 pm

JPG40504 wrote:http://chamberlain.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2713/session/L3RpbWUvMTQwMjQzMTQ2OS9zaWQvYndpWUV1V2w%3D

Maybe a clue?

Thank you. This is a very helpful link.

sawmill · Post by **sawmill** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:20 pm

I have the same brand of opener and mine did the same this this winter. I lubed all the rollers and checked the eyes. I was messing with it when it was -20 and I manage to break the welds on the top upright on the door. I fixed them and it worked for a day. With the cold it must have moved the building enough that the door was binding. I loosed the mounting brackets on the door track and added 1/16 inch piece under each one and it worked fine since. My first solution was to leave the car sit outside the rest of the winter but I was out voted on that one:)

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:36 pm

I thought I post this earlier today but I guess not.
I think the answer lies in the fact that you must hold the master switch to lower the door.
I think the transmitters send a signal that becomes a pulse to the receiver in order to change code so I don't think you can hold them down and have the door work.
The symptoms tells me a relay is not picking or a latch relay is not latching.

As I understand it a signal received by the receiver or detected from the master switch should pick a relay that makes the motor circuit. That relay is often held on by a another relay that does not release until the down extreme is reached. That circuit is not being made. Therefore the motor kicks out soon as it loses it's pulse. If you hold the master switch it will stay picked.

Pull the covers off the receiver and or any circuit board and look you should see two or three relays. Small cubes attached to the circuit board. Check them I imagine you will find one of them is bad. One will pick for the motor circuit and unless it is a latch relay another relay will pick and hold until the down extreme switch opens.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:45 pm

Between 8AM and 1PM!! Has anything changed in your neighborhood? Has the power company started using the power lines for data handling or remote hot water heater controls. Any new appliances in your house? Any new stuff that comes on for four hours and then is programmed to stop? Automatic chargers or the like.
I am starting to think possible RFI of some type.
Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:46 pm

JPG

I found five(5) lights a flashing and no Golden Ring. Actually, it is one light that flashes a coded number of times depending on condition.

Per the instructions, I pulled the power cord and reinstalled it. The lights are no longer flashing.

As just before, even with flashing light, the controls all seem to work. The next time it fails, I'll know to check the flashing lights.

It sure would have been nice if they had remoted that light to where it could be seen without climbing a ladder.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:00 pm

wa2crk wrote:Between 8AM and 1PM!! Has anything changed in your neighborhood? Has the power company started using the power lines for data handling or remote hot water heater controls. Any new appliances in your house? Any new stuff that comes on for four hours and then is programmed to stop? Automatic chargers or the like.
I am starting to think possible RFI of some type.
Bill V

I was sorta "tongue in cheek" when I said that. I have spend time on this the last two days and both days the problem persisted during the morning time. Shortly after noon, when I got back to working on it - it worked.

But - actually, I was thinking sun shine. My garage door opens to the east and the sensors are in direct sunlight until about high noon. Now this door opener is about ten (10) years old and this is the first time I have had this issue which sorta rules out the sun (but maybe not).

The other touch of information that I got from the link JPG provided is that the sensors are suppose to be mounted not more than 6" off the floor. Both of my sensors are more than 6" above floor level and they are not at the same level. The transmitter is about 1 1/2" lower than the receiver.

I can see why the installer did this. The brackets that mount the door track are in the way.

If that invisible beam gets weak with age (a phenomena that I understand), I may need new sensors.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:14 pm

Try shielding the sensors from the sun? Just to eliminate that as a cause.

Do I understand the travel limits are determined by motor run time? Boo Hiss!!!!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:24 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Try shielding the sensors from the sun? Just to eliminate that as a cause.

Do I understand the travel limits are determined by motor run time? Boo Hiss!!!!

I sorta did that but not with gusto. I have a hard time accepting that as the cause. Reality may drive me there.

I don't know about travel limits. I have not messed with those controls because door travel has not seemed to be an issue.

I have been warned that the door panels can be damaged if the travel limits are not set right so I have , so far, avoided going there.

I really do not want to pay an $89 service call (plus parts) if all that is needed is to tweak a potentiometer.

I could just build a cover or this driveway.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:43 pm

dusty wrote:I sorta did that but not with gusto. I have a hard time accepting that as the cause. Reality may drive me there.

I don't know about travel limits. I have not messed with those controls because door travel has not seemed to be an issue.

I have been warned that the door panels can be damaged if the travel limits are not set right so I have , so far, avoided going there.

I really do not want to pay an $89 service call (plus parts) if all that is needed is to tweak a potentiometer.

I could just build a cover or this driveway.

Let me rephrase the question. Are there any limit switches. I get the impression no. Again timed travel Boo Hiss unless revolutions are counted and drive has no slack/slipping!