Cutting board questions
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Cutting board questions
A co-worker asked me to "re-do" the cutting board( 22x22 aprox) from his '70's(or older) kitchen. The original is plain sawn, edge joined maple with oak ends. The ends had a single tongue all the way across glued into the ends. Of course it split down the middle at some point and it had warped some but not too much. I cut off the ends, ran the halves through the plainer & jointer and glued it back up. It's now a 1/32 over 1/2" thick. The wood is still looking good but I was wondering two things.
1) Is 1/2" too thin for a cutting board? It will go back in the original under counter top slit so I'd have to beef up the perimeter to the original 3/4" at least.
2) If I added a 1/4" patterned layer, say something like a tumbling block pattern, to one side, would it work? He's happy to just get his cutting board fixed but his wife is a nice lady and I'd like to do something extra for them.
I plan to put proper floating bread board ends back on it regardless.
1) Is 1/2" too thin for a cutting board? It will go back in the original under counter top slit so I'd have to beef up the perimeter to the original 3/4" at least.
2) If I added a 1/4" patterned layer, say something like a tumbling block pattern, to one side, would it work? He's happy to just get his cutting board fixed but his wife is a nice lady and I'd like to do something extra for them.
I plan to put proper floating bread board ends back on it regardless.
Paul B
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I would add the decoration on the end piece, not the board.moggymatt wrote:A co-worker asked me to "re-do" the cutting board( 22x22 aprox) from his '70's(or older) kitchen. The original is plain sawn, edge joined maple with oak ends. The ends had a single tongue all the way across glued into the ends. Of course it split down the middle at some point and it had warped some but not too much. I cut off the ends, ran the halves through the plainer & jointer and glued it back up. It's now a 1/32 over 1/2" thick. The wood is still looking good but I was wondering two things.
1) Is 1/2" too thin for a cutting board? It will go back in the original under counter top slit so I'd have to beef up the perimeter to the original 3/4" at least.
2) If I added a 1/4" patterned layer, say something like a tumbling block pattern, to one side, would it work? He's happy to just get his cutting board fixed but his wife is a nice lady and I'd like to do something extra for them.
I plan to put proper floating bread board ends back on it regardless.
Is the board removed from the slit when used? If so, the counter top will support it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
If it is just to be pulled out and not set on the counter, could you epoxy a 1/4" piece of plastic to the bottom? OR if it is dual sided, maybe even cutting board material. The plastic would negate much of the movement of the wood. Besides epoxy I'd probably use dowels at all four corners for decoration, transition and to help eliminate movement. The plastic might help it slide better when pulling it out.
Just a thought.
Be well,
Ben
Just a thought.
Be well,
Ben
- JPG
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moggymatt wrote:The co-worker says they usually use it partially pulled out. Not on the counter.
Then I would add the thickness all the way across. I do not know how to attach it to provide support and accommodate movement.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Since it is impossible to prevent wood movement (even glue will allow creap) I would recommend another 1/4" of thickness. Best would be to start with new wood and build a new board that is 3/4". Breadboard ends are a good choice. Also butcher block oil is a good finish. Same as mineral oil.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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I gotta agree with Charlese. It is difficult enough to accommodate a single layer of movement, and two layers really makes it much much more likely to fail(again). 'Starting over' with a single layer eliminates my consternation two posts back.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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johnmgonser
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Cutting Board
I agree with the suggestion to start over. I've made a number of cutting boards of various thicknesses, usually 1/2" or 3/4". When used as free-standing boards, they have held their shape for years - the oldest one is about 30 years old now. Edge gluing allows you to orient the board in its slot either on the long or the short grain side. If on the short (end) grain side, it won't expand out of its slot, and modern wood glue will hold a long-to-long grain joint forever.
Hopefully I'm not duplicating this. My internet has been acting odd lately. I managed to finish my co-workers cutting board between storms, power outages, vacation and a ton of other distractions. Cherry ends, purple heart strip and maple field. One major problem, can you spot it?
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Paul B