need fine quill adjustment

[benush26]

Something like this
[ATTACH]26181[/ATTACH]

The green is the nut

---------------
Other thoughts........
Modified to use maybe a 4 by 4 instead of 2 by 12, for more stability and easier to clamp over the way tubes??

Anyway, some food for thought.

Be well,
Ben

[forrestb]

I sent in the Disclosure Form to SS this am. Hope to have contact next week.

Ben, that would work, but I don't relish having to lift my PP in UTT routing to change the adjustment. Getting old sucks.

Forrest

[keakap]

I have made a router table that fits on the table when in the under-the-table routing setup.

I use the stop collar to made fine adjustments to the fence position, but do not have a good method of making fine adjustment to the quill for vertical movement.

Has anyone worked (and solved) this problem?

Forrest

Isn't that what the Quill Lock is for- the one on the back side of the headstock? I've used it for changes less than 1/64, pretty easily.
(but why do I think I'm missing something here?)

[dusty]

Isn't that what the Quill Lock is for- the one on the back side of the headstock? I've used it for changes less than 1/64, pretty easily.
(but why do I think I'm missing something here?)

I may have missed something too but I believe the issue is that the quill mechanism is much less accessible when under table routing.

It makes me feel so sorry for these Mark 7 PowerPro Double Tilt guys.:)

[forrestb]

It has been almost 6 weeks since I sent in the Disclosure Form with no response from SS.

Think I'll head over to the local supplier to see what Stafford would want for 1 - 100 units.

Forrest

[dusty]

Isn't that what the Quill Lock is for- the one on the back side of the headstock? I've used it for changes less than 1/64, pretty easily.
(but why do I think I'm missing something here?)

I think the membership might be very interested in how you made and confirmed quill advance adjustments that accurately.

I don't doubt that it can be done but I consider it sorta like using an axe!:rolleyes::):)

[keakap]

I think the membership might be very interested in how you made and confirmed quill advance adjustments that accurately.

I don't doubt that it can be done but I consider it sorta like using and axe!:rolleyes::):)

I had the same "axe" impression. Then one day I was using the Incra positioner to see how close I could get to one thousandth change in a measured cut (which is possible, by the way) and somehow got the quill feed and other stuff involved. Now I hafta remember exactly how. What I do remember, tho, is that getting 1/64 adjustment when you've been messing around with 1/1000- successfully- is a relative Coarse adjustment. (1 thou you can feel, I think it's 4 thou you can see)

Well, next time I have the SS setup I guess I know what I'll be lookin for. And about the axe thing- after I wrote that post I went down and looked at the quill feed and all, and right now I'm thinkin not just axe, but a long-handled rusty dull one. I'll work on it...

later-- may have something to do with isometrics...

[keakap]

I think the membership might be very interested in how you made and confirmed quill advance adjustments that accurately.

I don't doubt that it can be done but I consider it sorta like using an axe!:rolleyes::):)

So, as coincidence has it the next thing I needed to do on the SS involved Quill Feed.
Long story short, as Dusty suspected and I now remember, 'twas not as easy as memory reported.
But it was still possible. Two ways.
First was simply fine cleaning and tuning the Lock itself, then setting up some very good point lighting and finding the magnifier-lens glasses, and doing the old interpolation cha-cha with the Feed and Lock.

Second was (as I suspected) messing around with shims, as in having the shims in place then removing same to adjust. Standard fare.

Notes: like I sayed, long story short.
Also, the graduations on the Lock knob are 1/16's, so 'eyeball' each division into 4 pieces and you have 1/64's. If the lock mechanism is pristine it can be done without too much cursing. But have you taken that thing apart? That's some gnarly nasty stuff in there, with some great potential for self destruction, especially when great force is used to "really" lock down the Lock to prevent slipping under load. (Something I did to my old one, before I realized what I was doing.)
64'ths, especially after playing around with 1/1000'ths, are big fat things. Consider that 15 clicks on an Incra give you about one 64th!

My 'use' this time was for a drill press function (which I should- and shall- write up. Involves Reverse Drive too.)
I was able to rather easily make changes of well less than 1/16 by eyeball and fingertip, sts. If I were wanting to get closer or finer I would make a jig er sumpthin. Yeah it could be done, but not as easily as I had remembered.
(Or I no longer have that kind of patience.)

[c2h6o]

Ed--I have been struggling with the routing function for a Mark VII for both above and below the table. Depth setting, quill movement, etc. I like your stop collar--but my question is where do you buy it? I don't wee it on the Shopsmith web site

[runamuk13]

Here's what I did for a quill micro-adjuster.

This is a "take-off" inspired by the post in this thread by STB » Thu Sep 11, 2014

When you need to adjust the quill just a little bit when routing, shaping, sawing, etc ..... this makes it so much easier.

The adjuster screw is a 1/4"x20. A full turn moves the quill .050", one "flat" is .008". The head of the adjuster screw rides on the rib of the SS housing directly under the quill. I can either use a small wrench or my fingers to turn the screw.

I used a tap directly in a hole in the wood to make the threads for the adjuster screw as well as the 2 split-collar screws.

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