W3DRM wrote:
I have one remaining question - "How do I get the bearings off of the shaft? I'm not a machinist and have no bearing pulling capabilities. Do I have to take my quill to a machine shop or is there some way I can do this myself?
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Ron, thanks for those links. They do help. However, since the newer model 510 quills have two bearings and both of them appear to be pressed on, I will have to fashion some kind of jig to get one off first. Then, using the technique in the video should be easy. Seems like one roadblock after another on this project. But, I'm learning a lot as I go through it.
Don - W3DRM - Minden, Nevada --- SS 510 (new 2005), Bandsaw, Jointer, Conical & Standard sanding disks, & DC3300 Carson Valley Weather - http://www.carsonvalleyweather.com
W3DRM wrote:JPG - I am referring to the splined quill shaft. The spline end has a fair amount of lateral play in it which indicates to me that the bearing (6003Z) on the spline-end is worn. I can detect no play in the other end where a chuck or other attachments go.
I did go to Horror Fright and picked-up their 4-piece set of snap-ring pliers. Wow talk about sloppy workmanship and poor quality but, they did the job of removing the snap-ring. Now I just hope I can get it back together when I am done with the repairs. At $3.99 for the set, I guess I can't complain too loudly. However, I will seek a much better quality set for future usage. I couldn't find any local auto shops in the area who carried them in stock. All of them offered to order them for me.
I have now been able to remove the splined shaft so I can more easily see the bearings. The smaller bearing has "6003Z" stamped on it. The larger bearing has "6203RSC" on it.
While poking through the SS forum, I found another thread that discusses the quill bearings. It can be found at the following link:
VXB does not seem to carry the "exact" part number for either of these bearings. However, since the size and description appears to be the same, I am going to assume they can be used as replacements for those that SS used on their quills. VXB p/n's are 6203-2RS and 6003ZZ. Can someone confirm that these two bearings will work on the SS quill?
Assuming these replacement bearings are valid, I have one remaining question - "How do I get the bearings off of the shaft? I'm not a machinist and have no bearing pulling capabilities. Do I have to take my quill to a machine shop or is there some way I can do this myself?
Again, thanks for all the help on this matter. I can't imagine I am the only one who will benefit from this conversation.
OK, lets converse re bearing part numbers.
The -2RS indicates two rubber seals.
The ZZ indicates shields on both sides.
The 6203 and 6003 are standard size numbers and are interchangeable(those numbers can vary with different manufacturers, but less so recently).
Harbor Freight has a decent(adequate) bearing puller/separator/installer, but is somewhat $$$. With a 20% discount coupon it is less $$$. A bit $$ for one job. but I found I use it more than expected. I find bad bearings are no longer reason to pitch in the trash.
Since you do not intend to keep the bearings destructive removal is possible(just make sure only the bearing is 'destructed'). A correctly sized pipe can be used to install the new bearings.
The HF gizmo is a better way to go.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The bearings have a light press-fit. It is important to provide some sort of support underneath the bearing - depending upon how much room is available, I usually take my bench vice and open it up just wide enough that I can put a couple of 1/8" thick X 1" or 2" wide pieces of support metal under the bearing, but up close against the shaft so that the inner bearing race is supported also. Then, using a wood block with light hammer taps, slowly tap on end of spindle to remove that bearing - BE SURE TO HAVE THE SHAFT LOCATED SO THAT IT CAN NOT DROP WHEN THE BEARING COMES LOOSE. I just removed the single bearing from my greenie quill shaft two days ago using this method and it worked just fine. Once you do the front one, I expect a two-bearing quill will have the back bearing set up similar so look it over closely and see how best to support the bearing and which direction you need to tap the shaft to disengage it.
My plans for installing the new bearing are to take a block of wood - am thinking about a 2" X 2" and drill a hole just large enough for the bearing end of the shaft to enter and rubbing a bit of WD-40 on the shaft where bearing ends up ............. important issue is to make sure it starts evenly and not at an angle, etc. Then, simply tap the wood block until the bearing is seated in position.
Good luck with it - the guys here have a wealth of info. I had no trouble tearing my greenie headstock down to bare casting, painting it, getting new bearings for the drive, motor, and quill. First time ever doing it and by doing some careful reading, asking some questions, and "measure twice - cut once" on everything since its something new .......... you can do it.
Many of the guys have done outstanding jobs with photo history of the various assembly / disassembly steps that will be of great assistance.
