Saw guard problems on new to me Mark V 500

[CapinWinky]

I just purchased a 1981 Mark V with steel upper and lower guard (the upper guard has individual metal blades of varying length instead of feather board attached above the riving knife). I have two problems with it at the moment.

• The dado arbor makes the blades stick out too far to the right, outside the lower guard (I had to take off the front plate of the guard). I don't see how I could mount the lower guard differently to move it (any farther to the right and it will be spinning on the quill!) and I don't see a way to get the arbor to stick out less. I saw something about using different washers to move the blades (I'm actually using it to mount a single 5/8 blade), but we're talking a few inches, not fractions of an inch. Am I missing something, is the dado set different for 500 vs 505/510/520? EDIT: I see there is a spacer, 555070, but I don't know what this will do to my dust collection.
• There is a missing part preventing me from mounting the upper guard to the lower one. the riving knife extends down and then there is a 90 deg bend to the left to make a flange with two mounting holes (flange is parallel to back wall, not the floor). The lower guard clearly has two holes that should mount something, but they are parallel to the side wall. I assume there is an L shaped thing that should connect the two, but I don't have it. The exploded view for service parts on the site for 500 saw guard is not my guard...

I'm also curious about putting a 520 guard on my 500. The upgrade kit costs more than my entire Mark V, so that's not an option and ebay has several guard pairs for under $100. If 520 arbors are longer, I figure I can just run out the quill a little to line up with the guard or make/acquire a spacer.

[ChrisNeilan]

Order the correct arbor. There is a difference between the 500 and above. It makes blade alignment much easier and safer.

[reible]

Welcome to the forums!

First let me say I feel for you when it comes to the old metal top/bottom guards. I must also confess that they were not always in place when I was using it. Not something I'm proud of but it happened. It wasn't until I got the upgraded parts that I became a full time guard user.

My son just picked up a 1978 model with the old guards, I was shocked when I looked up the "new" price for a replacement. I would still say the cost of safety gear still out ways the potential costs of an accident so start saving your money.

My son may not know it but I'm looking at that cost when compared to trying to find a reasonably complete upgrade off ebay. That route will most likely be the way we go.

The 505/510/520 saw guards do not work on the 500 style tables.

Now on to attempting to solve your issues with what you have.

A couple of pictures would go a long way to knowing what you have and would be a faster way too. So could you post a few? If not we can start guessing and see how that works out.

Do you have a copy of the Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone book of the proper age (yellow cover)? How about manuals? If so we can start there.

Other issues that can confuse things is that there are various versions of parts which when combined incorrectly just will not work. Lengths of arbors and table model combined with blade guard is one of those areas where one needs to be particularly careful.

I'm going to take a little break at this point, will be back after I gather some more information, and perhaps some others will chime in.

Ed

I just purchased a 1981 Mark V with steel upper and lower guard (the upper guard has individual metal blades of varying length instead of feather board attached above the riving knife). I have two problems with it at the moment.

• The dado arbor makes the blades stick out too far to the right, outside the lower guard (I had to take off the front plate of the guard). I don't see how I could mount the lower guard differently to move it (any farther to the right and it will be spinning on the quill!) and I don't see a way to get the arbor to stick out less. I saw something about using different washers to move the blades (I'm actually using it to mount a single 5/8 blade), but we're talking a few inches, not fractions of an inch. Am I missing something, is the dado set different for 500 vs 505/510/520? EDIT: I see there is a spacer, 555070, but I don't know what this will do to my dust collection.
• There is a missing part preventing me from mounting the upper guard to the lower one. the riving knife extends down and then there is a 90 deg bend to the left to make a flange with two mounting holes (flange is parallel to back wall, not the floor). The lower guard clearly has two holes that should mount something, but they are parallel to the side wall. I assume there is an L shaped thing that should connect the two, but I don't have it. The exploded view for service parts on the site for 500 saw guard is not my guard...

I'm also curious about putting a 520 guard on my 500. The upgrade kit costs more than my entire Mark V, so that's not an option and ebay has several guard pairs for under $100. If 520 arbors are longer, I figure I can just run out the quill a little to line up with the guard or make/acquire a spacer.

[dov]

I have the same problem. I cannot figure out how to mount the upper saw guard. My picture is too large, and I do not feel like messing with it right now. I will address this again in the morning.

[br549]

Sounds like you are missing the bracket that attaches to the lower guard, and to which the upper guard attaches. (See attached photo) As far as the 5/8" universal or dado arbor, it is just too long to fit. Order (or find on eBay like I do) arbors for the 500. Shopsmith did make a thin aluminum piece to mount between the lower guard and the removable face to increase the width, and it gives you about another 1.25" of room. You may notice in the picture I am in the process of trying to improve that with a homemade version. I don't think even the original spacer is enough to allow the dado arbor to fit, but I like it because I don't have to flip the face up to change blades ... there is enough room to just slide off the blade, (except for my dedicated 5/8" arbor, which is longer). That's why I'm trying next to make one a full 1.5" wide to allow my largest arbor to go on and off without messing with the pivot feature.
This post caught my eye for another reason ...I posted a question recently about the upgraded upper guard as compared to the old style as I am considering upgrading, and would like to hear from other 500 owners who have experience from both as to how well the upgraded version works. I plan on keeping my old lower guard, as the new upper guard does not attach to it.

[superpop]

You may have a 510 lower guard. I have a 510 and somehow I ended up with a 500 lower guard. If you want, I would swap with you if you have the 510 lower and you want the metal 500 guard.

[br549]

Correction and update to my previous post. I mentioned I was making a 1.5" wide spacer for my lower guard. I learned there is a reason why Shopsmith makes their's 1.25" wide. At 1.5" wide, yes, a blade with a 5/8" arbor can be mounted and removed without having to open or pivot the lower guard face, and the table will lower without the table tie bar hitting the guard. BUT, a blade with the shorter 1.25" arbor means the table must slide further to the left to get the blade centered on the table insert, and that in turn makes the table tie bar hit the lower guard when the table is lowered. So, after bending my 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum so carefully and attaching copper tubing for bolt guides, I cut it down to 1.25" wide after all. For 5 out of 6 of my blades with 1.25" arbors, I can still mount and remove the blades without having to open or pivot the lower guard face, and for my one blade with a 5/8" arbor I will have to pivot the face. With ANY spacer, it is most important that the lower guard be positioned and tightened with the top edge of the lower guard face parallel to the table tie bar, or else it may hit or rub the cast iron table carriage. It's a very close fit. Rather than hit or miss, I found that by replacing the threaded stud at the bottom of the lower guard with a 5/16" bolt, and a lot of 5/16" washers (USS, not SAE), the washers against the back tube positions the lower guard just right.