I have a (re)finishing question
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I have a (re)finishing question
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the help so far. My question is in regards to an older table my wife got from her grandma. Now that I am getting into woodworking I appreciate how difficult this likely was to make. I decided to refinish it for her about, wait for it, 7 years ago... I was younger and we lived in an apartment. My ambitions knew no bounds! Until they did, apparently.
Now that my daughter knows that I started this project before she was born she won't stop letting me know that it should be finished by now.
Anyway, I have sanded all the old finish off and gone through the grits from 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, lastly 220. I have looked at finishes and am overwhelmed. All I want is a finish that will "bring out the wood" a bit and protect the wood if someone leaves a glass of water on it once in a while. Not too glossy if possible, and easy to apply would be nice, but whatever. Ideas?
Thanks
Zach
Thanks for all the help so far. My question is in regards to an older table my wife got from her grandma. Now that I am getting into woodworking I appreciate how difficult this likely was to make. I decided to refinish it for her about, wait for it, 7 years ago... I was younger and we lived in an apartment. My ambitions knew no bounds! Until they did, apparently.
Now that my daughter knows that I started this project before she was born she won't stop letting me know that it should be finished by now.
Anyway, I have sanded all the old finish off and gone through the grits from 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, lastly 220. I have looked at finishes and am overwhelmed. All I want is a finish that will "bring out the wood" a bit and protect the wood if someone leaves a glass of water on it once in a while. Not too glossy if possible, and easy to apply would be nice, but whatever. Ideas?
Thanks
Zach
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- BuckeyeDennis
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Re: I have a (re)finishing question
My favorite finish for a project like that is Minwax Wipe-On Poly. It's almost impossible to mess up, is durable, and looks great. Available in gloss or satin.
You can check out the reviews at Amazon.
I've seen recipes online for making your own by cutting regular polyurethane with something or another. But I don't use it in enough volume to make that worthwhile to me. And if the finish ever needs a touchup, you can buy the same stuff almost anywhere.
You can check out the reviews at Amazon.
I've seen recipes online for making your own by cutting regular polyurethane with something or another. But I don't use it in enough volume to make that worthwhile to me. And if the finish ever needs a touchup, you can buy the same stuff almost anywhere.
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
I've mostly used water based polyurethane as a finish coat - actually three or four coats.
Beneath the poly, you can have any stain/color you want. Only one caution - If you use oil based stain, wait a week or so for the stain to cure before applying water based poly.
My Brother in law, a professional wood finisher just visited and he was wowed by the finish on my furniture. He had lived the life of a oil and thinner user. He was surprised how the water based poly has held up over the years and moving several times.
OH! I apply the poly with a foam brush.
220 grit may be a bit too fine before finishing. Go back to 180 and between coats of poly you can use 220 or 320.
Beneath the poly, you can have any stain/color you want. Only one caution - If you use oil based stain, wait a week or so for the stain to cure before applying water based poly.
My Brother in law, a professional wood finisher just visited and he was wowed by the finish on my furniture. He had lived the life of a oil and thinner user. He was surprised how the water based poly has held up over the years and moving several times.
OH! I apply the poly with a foam brush.
220 grit may be a bit too fine before finishing. Go back to 180 and between coats of poly you can use 220 or 320.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
I suggest that ya wipe the top down with mineral spirits to show any missed spots. Before ya apply the finish.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
My opinion?
That table is just begging for a rich oil finish. I would use Watco Tung oil or user mix of one part Tung oil one part poly. I finished and end table, coffee table set with this about twenty years ago. They are used every day here in Florida where drink glasses really sweat. So far no water damage.
That table is just begging for a rich oil finish. I would use Watco Tung oil or user mix of one part Tung oil one part poly. I finished and end table, coffee table set with this about twenty years ago. They are used every day here in Florida where drink glasses really sweat. So far no water damage.
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
Unless I'm wrong, that is walnut. The worst thing you can do to walnut is to stain it. Walnut has its own perfect color if you just put a good finish on it. About 25 years ago I built a walnut cedar chest. I put no stain and 3 coats of oil based urethane on it. It still looks perfect today after 25 years of use. I used gloss finish as it cleans best and stands up best under use.


Re: I have a (re)finishing question
I want to say that I think it's the wax on a table that causes the rings to appear.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- tomsalwasser
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 2:09 pm
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
Congratulations thezman007. You have done the hard part. If you choose the correct finish, everything else is EASY!
I used to fear finishing. No more. I never stain. I use wood that I like and apply a clear finish. I highly recommend Waterlox Original: http://www.rockler.com/waterlox-origina ... nish-quart
It's expensive but fool proof and beautiful. The Original finish is glossy at first then in 3-6 months settles into a medium sheen that I really like. You never need to mix the can. You can sand between coats if you want to, but you don't have to, especially since you've sanded your table properly.
I learned a technique from finishing guru Thomas Schrunk. He uses the cheapie foam brushes that come 10 to a bag at Walmart for $1.50. His research indicated to him those were better than any others he could find. I took his word for it and I use them too, with great results.
Thomas Schrunk also invented and sells the Stop Loss Bag to store your finishes in. These bags prevent air from ruining your leftover finish over time. These bags work. A year later my 1/2 quart of waterlox is still perfect. Here's a link to more info: http://stoplossbags.com/
Good luck with whatever you decide to do and HAVE FUN! Please keep us posted.
Tom
I used to fear finishing. No more. I never stain. I use wood that I like and apply a clear finish. I highly recommend Waterlox Original: http://www.rockler.com/waterlox-origina ... nish-quart
It's expensive but fool proof and beautiful. The Original finish is glossy at first then in 3-6 months settles into a medium sheen that I really like. You never need to mix the can. You can sand between coats if you want to, but you don't have to, especially since you've sanded your table properly.
I learned a technique from finishing guru Thomas Schrunk. He uses the cheapie foam brushes that come 10 to a bag at Walmart for $1.50. His research indicated to him those were better than any others he could find. I took his word for it and I use them too, with great results.
Thomas Schrunk also invented and sells the Stop Loss Bag to store your finishes in. These bags prevent air from ruining your leftover finish over time. These bags work. A year later my 1/2 quart of waterlox is still perfect. Here's a link to more info: http://stoplossbags.com/
Good luck with whatever you decide to do and HAVE FUN! Please keep us posted.
Tom
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Re: I have a (re)finishing question
Thanks guys! That sufficiently muddied the waters LOL. Just kidding, that will help quite a bit.
Re: I have a (re)finishing question
FWIW, Fine Woodworking recently rated General Finishes-Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-On Poly (at half the price) as their top one-stop finishes to use when you want the same product for either wipe on (thin coat) or brush on (hard use table tops). I second not staining that nice wood. Wipe on some mineral spirits or alcohol to get an idea (temporarily) of what the color/grain of the wood would be with just a clear finish.