Removing the Control Sheave.

[twolukes]

The button bearing on the sheave has popped off....probably because I havent been lubing the sheave. Anyway - I need instructions on getting the sheave off to to replace it. The speed control is in slow, and with no button bearing I can't set it to high to get the belt off. Thanks,

[beeg]

Here's what I have. Page #8, item 28.

MKVMaintenance_1_10.pdf

(92.21 KiB) Downloaded 1102 times

how to do a high speed adjustment.PDF

(382.25 KiB) Downloaded 397 times

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[JPG]

A reason for setting to fast is to make removal of the wire clip on that button bearing possible. If the button is 'detached' from the control sheave, setting to fast is not necessary.

However to remove the control sheave, the speed control must be removed(to get it out of the way). Assuming you do not want to remove the idler shaft ).

The speed control can be adjusted towards fast without causing damage.

If the control sheave does not move(towards fast) without the button/loop, you have revealed the reason for it's departure from the control sheave. Either floating sheave(on the motor shaft) or the control sheave are sticking.

The loop is there merely to prevent the inner race of the bearing from rotating. It is NOT there for the porkchop to pull on.

[dusty]

re last two sentences. Why is it important that the inner race of that bearing not rotate? Can this be demonstrated by disconnecting the loop and running the speed control up and down full speed range?

[JPG]

re last two sentences. Why is it important that the inner race of that bearing not rotate? Can this be demonstrated by disconnecting the loop and running the speed control up and down full speed range?

Ask yourself first why there is a 'bearing' there.

It is there to prevent wear on the plate riveted to the porkchop arm(a wear plate) by the end of the control sheave rotating on it. The button and bearing provide a surface that slides easily on the wear plate and does not spin against the plate.

The result of spinning objects against the wear plate has been documented here occasionally.

[twolukes]

Thanks for the help. I removed the sheave and idler and cleaned them up (probably for the first time 20 years). Then I took off the bearing loop, gently cleaned the inside of the idler with some 600 grit, put a dab of red Permatex on the outside of the bearing and whacked it home using a 1/2" ratchet as a set. Works like a charm. You all saved me $40 for a new sheave (or $2K for a MkVII upgrade)

[JPG]

Thanks for the help. I removed the sheave and idler and cleaned them up (probably for the first time 20 years). Then I took off the bearing loop, gently cleaned the inside of the idler with some 600 grit, put a dab of red Permatex on the outside of the bearing and whacked it home using a 1/2" ratchet as a set. Works like a charm. You all saved me $40 for a new sheave (or $2K for a MkVII upgrade)

Mark 7 is an upgrade.


Mark VII is going back a half century!