Speed control and ???

[JPG]

Hey folks, the pix made it!!!

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 22#p187522

[fitzhugh]

I would guess perhaps the bearing and clip you are missing caused the whole problem.

Bill Mayo posted somewhere here about how he bores the end of the sliding control sheave a small bit deeper to allow staking.

I wasn't clear - seemed you were asking if you were asking for trouble by not buying a replacement and just running without one. If so, then yes. That bearing part is truly necessary.


I looked into buying the bearing part directly - it is a Fafnir 35kdd2. Officially Obsolete. The center button is actually also the inner race as best I can tell. Clearly they come from somewhere, some secret underground workshop hidden under the ebay seller's lawn? I don't think they charge an unreasonable amount for a hard to come by part, I just look to save when I can.

[dsinsley]

I would guess perhaps the bearing and clip you are missing caused the whole problem.

Bill Mayo posted somewhere here about how he bores the end of the sliding control sheave a small bit deeper to allow staking.

I wasn't clear - seemed you were asking if you were asking for trouble by not buying a replacement and just running without one. If so, then yes. That bearing part is truly necessary.


I looked into buying the bearing part directly - it is a Fafnir 35kdd2. Officially Obsolete. The center button is actually also the inner race as best I can tell. Clearly they come from somewhere, some secret underground workshop hidden under the ebay seller's lawn? I don't think they charge an unreasonable amount for a hard to come by part, I just look to save when I can.

No my question is should I replace the entire control sheave assembly or just replace the bearing, button, and clip in the end of my existing control sheave. My control sheave to my uneducated eye seems fine; to me it looks like all of the pieces fell out of it. There is no galling,no cracks, or deformity that I notice. The Ebay link I posted shows a replacement subassembly for the lack of a better term that replaces this bearing button and clip without replacing the entire sheave. It is a $25 dollar savings. However $25 dollars is nothing if it isn't the right way to fix it.

So far I see one person saying replace the whole assembly and one saying I should be safe replacing the just the bearing, button, and clip and staking it into the old sheave.

As for the picture issue that was do to me trying to do it straight from my phone. When I downloaded the pictures to my computer there was no issue.

[fitzhugh]

Ah, that makes sense.

I don't have a real opinion to add to those offered already regarding which to get, but I seem to recall Bill saying success in staking a new one had to do with the depth of the bored out section, whether it was deep enough to have the bearing recessed inside just a bit. If flush it is harder to move the necessary metal over. I'll see is I can find the reference letter (dinner just about to hit table).

I was asking just the past few days about replacing the bearing. I actually found the bearing to have shields held in by runny e retaining clips, not permanently pressed in like the other shielded bearings I've encountered-though luckily I'd read of the possibility and checked. Maybe it's common, don't know but it meant I was able to remove the shields and clean out the bearings, and repack with a little grease.shields back on and it feels really good, though fingers MSI not be precision enough to catch a problem. Have not staked it but am pretty sure it will work since the home is deep enough. Oh, I think he said earlier ones were deeper.

I really should find that post instead of dredging my admittedly poor memory.
In the thread I started about this someone said they were able to bore it deeper on their ss using a ham chuck. It sounds like you have options.

Oh. The bearing is 6 mm wide (thick?) Of you want to check the depth.

Lastly, you never found the bearing? If you do in interested in seeing whether the button/shaft is actually one piece with the inner race. I just could not tell.

[dsinsley]

Its there in the picture above. I found the bearing or what is left of the bearing it appears to me that the inner race is the button. There is an groove in it that the balls roll in. That does not look like a separate piece from the button itself. The outer race is another story. It is still in my control sheave and you can see it in the pic. I found four ball bearings. Don't know how many there should be.

And I suppose you could mill out the end of the control sheave with your ss but since this is my only shop smith wellllllll can't really use it to fix a major part. But I do have access to another drill press.

[JPG]

Well, That explains why it looks strange. I was blaming it on lighting/camera angle.

This brings up another possible 'problem'.

That outer race needs to be driven out from the sheave end of the bore. Is there enough surface area visible from that end to allow driving it out?

Care must be taken to prevent splitting/breaking the control sheave 'snout'.

That is where the staking.peening... must take place. You need all the material you can get.

I apologize for not realizing this sooner.

[dsinsley]

This is preciously why I haven't pulled the trigger on buying the replacement bearing yet. I have made no attempt to drive out the old race. I can't answer your question yet. I will hopefully know tomorrow when I have a chance work on it. If all else fails as a last resort I might try cutting the race into two pieces and pry it out and if I mess things up well then I get a whole new assembly.


It kinda like being in the navy its not a job its an adventure.

[rpd]

This video should answer many of your questions.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGn9r5-V7hs[/youtube]

Enjoy the journey.

[fitzhugh]

I want to throw out a short cautionary note... I just removed that bearing a few days ago on my greenie because it was so crunchy and noisy. I was sure I had moved/removed the metal that was forming a small rim to hold it in. I was wrong and now noticed a couple very short hairline cracks on the shaft end.

I think it would have been fine if I had been more careful to take away the rim since there is a very small bit left, but I'll let those who actually know speak to that.

In any case, tonight I ordered a 6x19x6 sealed bearing (626-2rs) to see if I can just mack a replacement by turning a button out of ~10mm brass on my old unimat and staking it in the bearing, then staking the bearing in place. I'll have to figure out how to deal with the cracks but at a few dollars added to a bearing order I had to place anyhow I don't have much to lose. The button isn't a part that gets that much wear so perhaps brass will suffice.

[billmayo]

You could machine a steel or brass ring to press fit around the control sheave shaft end. I did a couple of rings years ago making them about .002" smaller ID the shaft end OD and 1/2" wide. I machine the bearing depth to where I have at least .030" pass the end of the bearing so that I can stake at 4 places to hold the bearing like the original control sheaves was done years ago. Also, I use red Loctite to hold the bearing.