reible wrote:Hi,
In these photos I have the miter gauge mounted backwards so I can show you what is happening. This is NOT how I use it.
Ed
It appears that the miter gauge is in the correct position? Am I missing something? Is there a reason for the circle wood or could it be square?
Thanks,
Mike
Take a closer look at the blade teeth.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
dickg1 wrote:Ed,
I see advantages and am going to make one. But, why the extra thick mitre extension?
Dick
I should wait to let Ed answer your question but I'm going to take a stab at it. I surmise that the thick extension protects the users' fingers and palms from the blade.
My full size cross cut sled NEEDS something that would do that. I cut get cut really bad on mine because the blade gets exposed on the backside of the fence on each and every cut.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:
I should wait to let Ed answer your question but I'm going to take a stab at it.
He did back in November 2009.
PowerPro Mark 7, 11" Bandsaw, 4" Jointer, 12" Professional Planer, DC3300 Dust Collector, DW745, DW718 w/ DW723 and a DW788 w/ DW7880.
Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts. -Winston Churchill
OK, I understand. I'll just sit back and take this on the chin.
BUT, what I am wondering is how that ancient post popped up on my computer screen. I did not go searching the forum for it. Maybe I did that real early in morning. NO, I can't use that explanation here. The post was at 10:00 am. Oh Well!
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
You you may have missed my post regarding my sled with a feature that more or less eliminated the blade coming through the back of the sled. It was just an idea but seems to work.
I have built at least two or three of these and either become dissatisfied with my workmanship or find that my design is lacking.
The last sled that I built has worked fine even though I have abused it by cutting work pieces that were too thick. I am going to have to build another one.
The design will not change though the dimensions might (probably will). I find that I need 24" of cross cut capacity much more frequently than I had thought. The new sled will accommodate that. To support the sled on the infeed side, I will need an infeed table just to provide support. I am thinking about 10" to 12".
To prevent the cross cut sled from clearing the blade on the infeed side, I will size the runners (along with the cutouts on the outfeed table) to allow a full width cross cut while not exposing the blade.
I will have to discipline myself to NOT CUT 2" thick materials on this new sled.
Sliding Cross Cut Table 003.jpg (1.91 MiB) Viewed 22420 times
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Last edited by dusty on Sat Nov 05, 2016 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Make a stop for your out feed table to stop the sled. Then add a safety block to the in feed side to hide the exposed blade. As you can see on my sled the runners in my case hit the blocks glued on the out feed side cross piece.
I would just bolt a removable block in the center of the out feed table and then attach an appropriately sized block on the in feed side to hide the blade.
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IMAG0572.jpg (158.95 KiB) Viewed 22404 times
DSCF0924_Small.jpg (292.01 KiB) Viewed 22404 times
IMAG0334_Small.jpg (148.5 KiB) Viewed 22404 times
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
