Here in Pittsburgh, we call rubber bands, gumbands
This photo will show the beginning of a Lighthouse.
I used an 8 sided birds mouth router bit to create this tapered cylinder.
Next is to allow the glue to dry thoroughly and then ease the edges of each corner with a hand plane!
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Last edited by ExtraMile on Sat Jul 11, 2015 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am a true blue Xylophiliac, who also is a Nemophiliac
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I've thought about making one of these but I've never gotten a round to it, well yet anyway. I'll be interested in seeing how you proceed.
The first question is if you changed the thickness of the material could you not get joints that required only minimal alteration? More work initially but less work in the end?
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
reible wrote:I've thought about making one of these but I've never gotten a round to it, well yet anyway. I'll be interested in seeing how you proceed.
I am not entirely clear as to why I keep getting this end result! If you remember, sometime ago, my mug stave concept. The confounded wet weather has all but tossed my building the mugs. into file 13. But the mug staves, are considerably thinner and I still get this result.
Last edited by ExtraMile on Sat Jul 11, 2015 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am a true blue Xylophiliac, who also is a Nemophiliac
This is just general information which you might want to use or not. These bit set can produce some pretty interesting projects and I am certainly no expert on them but I do understand some what how they work. Now having said that, the bits should have come with instructions as to how to set them up. They should have also come with information as to stock thickness. Some bit are good for wood between 1/2" and 7/8" thick working outside these sizes can be done but other factors come in to play.
Assuming for a moment the wood is 3/4" thick and you are cutting with the 8 side bit then the distance from the table to the wide part of the bit should be set at 3/16". The depth of cut then needs to be done by moving the fence in several passes until the top of the work piece still has a thin (1/32 to 1/64) edge left to ride on the fence. This should have the joint with just that small edge left to sand off and in this case perhaps round over.
If you were going to make the object round then this doesn't apply. You need more wood left to remove and this can be figured out but is beyond the scope of this post.
I don't have the experience to say if all of these bits have the same profiles and thus the same dimensions so check what your bits have to say about it. A good reference for the lee valley set can be found under the bits where it says Instr.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
The pix appears to show a simple 90 degree v groove cut into one edge of each segment.
Is the compound angle a factor?
I think the devil is in the details which I seem to have have missed entirely.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange