What did I buy, 500 or 510?

[Cornell]

Well, I've been using it a bit, and I do believe that spinning the speed dial down is getting easier. Not as easy as spinning up, but definitely easy enough to do with thumb and index finger.

[JPG]

Well, I've been using it a bit, and I do believe that spinning the speed dial down is getting easier. Not as easy as spinning up, but definitely easy enough to do with thumb and index finger.

It will never go down as easily as going up. Sounds like you are at 'normal'.

[charlese]

A little more to help with the stiffness of the speed control turning to slow.

One important lube that is missed by many is to thoroughly oil the floating sheave. You can do this without disassembling anything other than the belt cover. After removing the cover use your hands and pull the floating sheave out against the spring. DO NOT LET IT SLAM BACK. Put oil all over the shaft - not just in the hole beneath the spring. To oil best, first put the headstock in drill press position. You can oil the outside of the shaft and allow it to seep in along the shaft. Now return the machine to normal position. Using your hands pull out the floating sheave again several times. I think you will find the pull getting easier.

Now re-assemble the belt cover, turn on your machine and feel the difference in the strength needed to turn from high to low speed.

Now that you have done the pork chop thing and lubed the control sheave shaft, I assume you have found the reason to run up to fast before oiling. This position allows a vacant space between the solid shaft and the bearing. It also puts the oil hole so lube will go into the vacant space. Don't be too stingy with the oil here. Any excess will slop into the little bearing and save wear on the loop that attaches to the pork chop.

[Cornell]

Well... this is inconvenient... it's been getting easier to dial down, until this evening... I made a cut and went to turn the dial down... Won't move down. Both hands on the thing, it won't turn down. I can turn it up a bit and down a bit, but then can't go down any further.

Turned it off at about mid-speed. Swapped the saw blade for the sanding disk. Got it to about "T" and was able to remove the dial... looks ok. Pulled the SS logo on the other side, pork chop and all looks ok. Pulled the belt cover, belts, sheaves look ok.

What to do next?

[JPG]

Well... this is inconvenient... it's been getting easier to dial down, until this evening... I made a cut and went to turn the dial down... Won't move down. Both hands on the thing, it won't turn down. I can turn it up a bit and down a bit, but then can't go down any further.

Turned it off at about mid-speed. Swapped the saw blade for the sanding disk. Got it to about "T" and was able to remove the dial... looks ok. Pulled the SS logo on the other side, pork chop and all looks ok. Pulled the belt cover, belts, sheaves look ok.

What to do next?

Go beyond 'looking'.

While 'doing the 'turn it up/turn it down a bit' observe what is/is not moving. i.e. quadrant gear,control sheave.

I am guessing the quadrant gear is NOT moving.

If so, pulling the speed control be next.

[Cornell]

Bad to worse... Not only does it not go down, this morning, it won't go up. It's stuck. There's about 1/8 inch play in the speed dial.

Putting my finger on the worm gear, I feel no movement when I move the dial.

Needless to say, it's not lined up for accessing the set screw to remove the dial.

I've no clue how to move forward.

[Cornell]

Bad to worse... Not only does it not go down, this morning, it won't go up. It's stuck. There's about 1/8 inch play in the speed dial.

Putting my finger on the worm gear, I feel no movement when I move the dial.

Needless to say, it's not lined up for accessing the set screw to remove the dial.

I've no clue how to move forward.

[beeg]

Can you turn the spindle, using the sanding disk?

[JPG]

First some 'terminology' definitions.

Speed 'dial' = the ring with letters and devices(SPT)/operations .

Speed control 'knob' = the thing one rotates to change speed.

So, where is the "1/8" play?

If the worm gear is not moving, is the knob moving?

If the knob is moving(1/8"?) and the worm gear is not, the set screw is 'sloppy' in the detent hole.

Does the dial move when the knob is rotated(1/8")?


The knob can be removed, but only by 'feel' (getting lucky and hitting the setscrew hex hole with a short allen wrench). I think that is your next step.

[Cornell]

Beeg: with the sanding disk, I can turn the disk, which turns the spindle, belts, etc.

JPG: By your definition (I think)...

The dial (ring with numbers on it) does not move. Period.

The knob (large circular "thing" with SS logo, from whence protrudes a small cylinder) moves about 1/8 inch. And the worm gear doesn't move. I agree, probably "slop" in the set screw.

Regarding getting lucky and hitting the set screw... I believe that the set screw sits in the same casting as the knob, and hence always faces the opening in the side of the knob. The problem being there are other things under the knob, notably a leaf spring, blocking the path between the opening and the set screw. (My dial is currently at about "Q", were it near "T", there'd be a clear path) Am I to understand that if I remain patient and keep trying, I can hit the set screw through the opening and past the spring? I'd tried a bit and quit. Did I quit too soon?

I'm thinking, since neither the dial nor the worm gear move, something is locked up or seized under the knob. Removing it would be grand. Would it be possible, useful, to spray WD-40 underneath it and use greater leverage than my hands can provide (perhaps a strap wrench around the knob) to turn it up to "T", where I can more easily hit the set screw?

As an aside, I will mention, that I have another headstock, not currently operational. When I got them and went over them, I used the best bits to build the headstock that's now locked up. I believe there's a broken tooth in the other speed control.

Also, I have a DIY Power Pro upgrade on order (originally expected mid-July, now mid to late August) The plan was to use the non-operational headstock for the upgrade, and use the currently locked up one to do work. Not the first time one of my plans failed ;-)