What did I buy, 500 or 510?

[beeg]

Did you do the high speed adjustment after you put in the new control??

[JPG]

Where is the motor belt riding on the motor pulley at 'fast'?

You can futz about with the high speed stop, and determine when the control sheave butts against the idler sheave(that indeed is all that limits adjustment towards slow*), but belt width and tracking position on the pulleys is what determines actual speed.

It is always a ratio that is determined by belt position on both pulleys. A narrower belt will ride further in on both pulleys. A wider belt will ride higher in both pulleys. Eccentric position will also affect the realized speeds. Ohhh, and add belt length to that 'list'. Then there is actual motor rpm to affect all this. We likely measure rpm at 'no load' which will cause the motor to run fast . . .

So if the belt is narrow, and the highspeed stop is adjusted with the belt near the periphery of the motor pulley, the narrow belt will ride deeper in the idler pulley and the speed will be fast. The reverse is true for a wide belt(it will run slower)

Got the picture that exact speeds are not likely? I believe that is why no speed numbers are on the dial(only letters) and they are untended to be an initial setting.



* as Bill stated too far into the motor pulley will likely cause the belt to jam. Not a limit per se, but a functional limit.



IMHO chasing the speeds of 5200/700 at fast/slow is a fool's errand and the odds of obtaining them both slim.

[Cornell]

Where is the motor belt riding on the motor pulley at 'fast'?

Ah, there's the rub (no pun intended), I'm thinking close to a 1/2 inch. I stuck a stick, laid against the sheave, onto the outside of the belt and marked with my thumbnail where the edge of the sheave fell. I then measured the stick and got about 1/2 inch.

Out of curiousity, I checked the price of a new belt, and noted that it said you need a new belt if it's frayed, or the machine vibrates too much. Mmmm, it does seem to vibrate a bit, more at higher speeds. Maybe I need a belt.

IMHO chasing the speeds of 5200/700 at fast/slow is a fool's errand and the odds of obtaining them both slim.

Ah, a fool's errand. Perfect for me ;-)

Anyway, that's kind of what I was thinking, if fast is supposed to be 5200, how much off of that is still acceptable, 5300, 5600?

I also have the other headstock (non-operational, awaiting the DIY Power Pro kit, maybe third week of August) Maybe its belt is in better shape.

While the belt replacement instructions are easy, I don't know how much actual effort is involved. Maybe I should pull the one, and if it's not too much effort, pull the operational one and see which is in better shape. I'm assuming that wear makes the belt narrower, and perhaps elongated.

[jsburger]

Where is the motor belt riding on the motor pulley at 'fast'?

Ah, there's the rub (no pun intended), I'm thinking close to a 1/2 inch. I stuck a stick, laid against the sheave, onto the outside of the belt and marked with my thumbnail where the edge of the sheave fell. I then measured the stick and got about 1/2 inch.

Out of curiousity, I checked the price of a new belt, and noted that it said you need a new belt if it's frayed, or the machine vibrates too much. Mmmm, it does seem to vibrate a bit, more at higher speeds. Maybe I need a belt.

IMHO chasing the speeds of 5200/700 at fast/slow is a fool's errand and the odds of obtaining them both slim.

Ah, a fool's errand. Perfect for me ;-)

Anyway, that's kind of what I was thinking, if fast is supposed to be 5200, how much off of that is still acceptable, 5300, 5600?

I also have the other headstock (non-operational, awaiting the DIY Power Pro kit, maybe third week of August) Maybe its belt is in better shape.

While the belt replacement instructions are easy, I don't know how much actual effort is involved. Maybe I should pull the one, and if it's not too much effort, pull the operational one and see which is in better shape. I'm assuming that wear makes the belt narrower, and perhaps elongated.

I guess my question would be if the belt is questionable why not just replace it with a new one. Why replace it with another used one that is also questionable? To me the effort is not in play if I want the machine to run properly. Belts are not that expensive.

[Cornell]

Well, I've not made anymore adjustments or fixes to the unit, been using it a bit, and getting my bandsaw and joiner working.

And I received my DIY Power Pro Upgrade, and I've been upgrading my "spare" headstock. And I'm so close to finished, and am having a problem.

Three points...
I took a bit longer to put it together, but then I had a 1.5 ft by 2 ft space to work on, and left the parts in the box until I needed them. Not efficient.

I did my best to precisely drill the holes, missed a bit, but was close enough.

The 12 by 12 by 2 in staging board doesn't need to be 12 by 12, but definitely 2 inches thick, or a bit more.

Problem...
The toughest part so far is putting the strain relief in the motor pan (2nd from last step) I drilled out the whole with a step drill bit, to 3/4 inch. There seems little play in the power cord. Can't seem to get the two parts of the strain relief onto the power cord and in the hole. I note that the pan pictured in the instructions had two holes and one was enlarged. Mine had three holes, two on either side and a larger one in the middle that the original cord went through. That's the one I enlarged and ran the cord through.

Does it matter how the power cord runs inside the pan?
Any suggestions that might help?

And I've already run the upgraded Power Pro, part of tensioning the belts, and it is SO COOL!!! Quiet, smooth... just press the On button, no trying to spin the manual dial up. I can't wait to make saw dust with it :-)

[charlese]

Does it matter how the power cord runs inside the pan?
Any suggestions that might help?

As long as there is room to fit the cord and wiring into the headstock, it should be good!

P.S. I used a pair of pliers to squeeze the strain relief. Guess that's called straining the strain relief

[Cornell]

I found the error of my ways...

The instructions said to cut out the template, put it over the hole, as in the figure, mark the hole, enlarge it. The picture shows a pan with two holes. Mine had three.

I enlarged the hole the power cord had gone through.

Wrong hole!

It's one of the holes for the motor mount screws. With the pan upside down, open end to the right, it's the hole near you on the left. Running the cord through there leaves a bit of space for the cord to move. Running it through the center hole binds the cord.

Once I used the right hole, the strain relief went in well. I used locking pliers to squeeze it together, like in the instructions. But that made in inserting end splay a bit, so I also used needle nose to close that end. Fed right in.

Of course, as the cord was in the wrong hole, I cut off the plug, rather than take the whole thing apart, and spent a couple of bucks on a new plug.

I noted there were instructions for "converting" to 240 volt: cut off the plug and put on a 240 plug. So I "converted" it to 120 volt ;-)

[wa2crk]

Cornell
I just read through this post again and noticed that in one of the earlier pics of the serial number plate there is a sticker that designates it as a "510 R" That little sticker was included by SS when the machine was upgraded to the 510 from a basic 500. I know cuz my original has the same designation and was included in my upgrade kit.
Bill V

[Cornell]

I didn't note last evening when turning it off, as part of the belt tensioning, but now, when I turn it off, the screen stays on reporting low voltage error, and then it goes off.

Is that normal?

[Mike907]

Yes, normal.