Help with lathe work

[Ohgary]

So here is my plan: clean and wax the tool rest. Adjust rest so the carbide cutter hits the stock at mid line. Glue up some stock to experiment with. I also have a round 16mm carbide insert and another piece of bar stock. I'll make another chisel so I can compare the action of the two shapes.

Some have suggested a get a square insert with a radius edge. Arizona carbide offers three different radii. Which would best for general spindle turning? Two, four or six inch radius?

Edit: Oh wait. An earlier post suggested the 4 inch radius square cutter.

[ERLover]

I do believe the cutting edge of the chisel should contact the work piece above the center line.

[Bruce]

So here is my plan: clean and wax the tool rest. Adjust rest so the carbide cutter hits the stock at mid line. Glue up some stock to experiment with. I also have a round 16mm carbide insert and another piece of bar stock. I'll make another chisel so I can compare the action of the two shapes.

Some have suggested a get a square insert with a radius edge. Arizona carbide offers three different radii. Which would best for general spindle turning? Two, four or six inch radius?

Edit: Oh wait. An earlier post suggested the 4 inch radius square cutter.

I also believe someone mentioned flattening the edge of your tool rest. If you run your chisel along the rest and feel any roughness, file the edge to make it dead smooth.

[reible]

Hi again,

If I can work it in to my scheduled I will take some pictures of my tool rest, and hand made tool tomorrow. The tool rest is the foundation of your turning and it needs to be smooth and flat. It took a fair amount of effort to get the shopsmith one usable. Filling followed by sanding. It is an on going effort but worth it.

In order to keep the tool rest in top condition you need to break the sharp edges of your lathe tools. The steel is harder then the cast iron and will tear up your tool rest.... you can ask me why I know this, well, from experience, yes I did it to myself. Got a new tool and was so excited to use it that I didn't pay attention to the sharp corners..... BTW nicer tools come with the edges already rounded over.

So far I'm sold on easy tool stuff and have a few of their tool and would like to add more to my collection. I can only afford a couple every year, I look for the spring sales and add to my collection then.

Here is a clip from the instructions that come with the ruffing tool. I highlighted, well OK I arrow-ed the part about tool position but please read the whole list.

ScreenHunter_52 Oct. 26 22.58m.jpg (69.4 KiB) Viewed 7765 times

Ed

[charlese]

Hi again,...
The tool rest is the foundation of your turning and it needs to be smooth and flat. It took a fair amount of effort to get the shopsmith one usable. Filling followed by sanding. It is an on going effort but worth it.

In order to keep the tool rest in top condition you need to break the sharp edges of your lathe tools. The steel is harder then the cast iron and will tear up your tool rest....

Ed

Excellent recommendation!!!! ---

Excellent recommendation!!!!

Excellent recommendation!!!!

[ERLover]

Best I can tell you, but it may not be the problem, it may just be the species of wood.
There is scraping and cutting. Scraping is done with a carbide “easy turn” tool or with a steel tool that you grind a little burr onto. Scraping is easy but slower. Scraping is good for fine tuning or smoothing out a piece. Scraping occurs below the center line. Cutting is what takes skill. If you cut too deep or fast you get a ‘catch’. You have to line up your chisel just right. Cutting is above the center line.

[JPG]

Scraping simply is essentially impossible above the center line(you end up riding the bevel[not good for scraping]). However realize the 'center line' is a virtual one that extends the 'line' of the tool through the center of rotation. Thus a rest set 'high' combined with a tilted upward handle can be 'at' the center.

Too far below will result in tearing since the burr/edge will be pulling the fibers.

Best results occur when the scraping is tangetial to the workpiece.


Cutting is different ball game.

[Ohgary]

Sources for making carbide chisels (The grinder does not come with cutoff disks). Online Metals shipped pretty fast, too.

grinder.jpg (73.57 KiB) Viewed 7688 times

steel_bar.jpg (73.77 KiB) Viewed 7688 times

[Ohgary]

I have had the results you are getting. Ed has make good suggestions. I would add one thing: How aggressive are you in making the cut? One sees a lot of videos and live demonstrations where the turner is hogging out vast amounts of material in a short time. It make s for an impressive demo but the cuts will look like the one you have at the end. A slower much less aggressive cut will result in a smoother outcome. I look it as using course sandpaper: removes a lot of material quickly but leaves a rough surface. Fine sandpaper: less material removed but a smoother finish. Agree with Ed that a slight radius cutter will give better results. I find I have better control, much less aggressive. Good luck.
Regards,
Dwight

I am actually very timid approaching the stock with my home made carbide chisel. I don't rub my hand over spinning spindles, either.

I really have to try some species of wood and a round carbide cutter. Then I'll report back.

[Ohgary]

http://youtu.be/YGC7UL0msCM

Link to a video I viewed to get lathe chisel ideas.