Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

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rjent
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by rjent »

These 10ER's are just beautiful machines, they may be an old design, but they are just cool looking ... Like a 57 Chevy Bel air or a 56 Ford Crown Vic. Class ....... :cool:

I love mine and use it almost every day .... :D

Nice job John :)
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

cham-ed wrote:For terminals try an electrical supply house. Around here we have Englewood Electric and they carry a wide variety of terminals. Go to where the electricians buy large quantities of things like conduit.
I agree! I just haven't had to do time to do it. Thanks!
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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beeg
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by beeg »

Try Ace hardware for the terminals.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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greasemonkey2275
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by greasemonkey2275 »

John,

You have done a helluva job on this restoration, well done! As I was looking in the background of your photos I was trying to figure out what the wood "sled?" was on your SS in the background. It looks like it has increased the table size but I don't recall seeing anything like it.

Jake
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Spokane, WA
Shopsmith Mark V S/N: 354008 Born: 1958/Restored: 2015
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JPG
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by JPG »

I would ground the motor directly.

Now if you are concerned about the switch being mounted to another part, add a jumper from the motor grounding terminal to the casting 'somewhere'. If you can find them, a 15/32" ring terminal on the switch. If not, make one!

Generally an external tooth star washer should be between the grounding terminal and the surface being grounded.

I would recommend in line connectors for the switch leads(so the motor can be removed without pulling the switch). That grounding wire would still need to be removed at the motor.
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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

beeg wrote:Try Ace hardware for the terminals.
I got them today at Radio Shack. I knew they would have them but since their problems they closed the closest store. Got close to one today for another reason so got the terminals. Where I live everything is 5+ miles away. :D :D
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

rjent wrote:These 10ER's are just beautiful machines, they may be an old design, but they are just cool looking ... Like a 57 Chevy Bel air or a 56 Ford Crown Vic. Class ....... :cool:

I love mine and use it almost every day .... :D

Nice job John :)
Thanks Dick. I totally agree with you assessment of the 10ER.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

greasemonkey2275 wrote:John,

You have done a helluva job on this restoration, well done! As I was looking in the background of your photos I was trying to figure out what the wood "sled?" was on your SS in the background. It looks like it has increased the table size but I don't recall seeing anything like it.

Jake
It is a cross cut sled. In the picture you are referring to I have the 45 degree angle cutting sled on the support frame. I also have a very large 90 degree cross cut sled that fits on the same support frame.

There are pictures of all this scattered about in other threads. I will start another thread that documents all the ways I have used to configure the SS for cutting large stock including 4 X 8 plywood.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

JPG wrote:I would ground the motor directly.

Now if you are concerned about the switch being mounted to another part, add a jumper from the motor grounding terminal to the casting 'somewhere'. If you can find them, a 15/32" ring terminal on the switch. If not, make one!

Generally an external tooth star washer should be between the grounding terminal and the surface being grounded.

I would recommend in line connectors for the switch leads(so the motor can be removed without pulling the switch). That grounding wire would still need to be removed at the motor.
Those are exactly all the things I was thinking about. I was thinking a 1/2" (15/32) ring terminal under the switch. Then I need to clean some paint off of the motor mount and the cast iron motor bracket to get a good ground to the motor frame.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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jsburger
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Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Post by jsburger »

Today I got the motor wired. I ended up attaching the ground wire to one of the motor mount bolts. I removed the paint under the washers on the cast iron motor bracket and the mounting flange on the motor. I verified a good ground from the head stock to the motor frame with an Ohm meter.

I don't have speed changer belts yet so I put a single belt on to test. It purrs like a kitten. :D Speed changer belts are on order from Skip.
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John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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