Cross cut table
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Cross cut table
I was curious if anyone has tried making a cross cut table (or panel cutting sled) with the fence at the outfeed end rather than on the infeed end. I have the SS sliding cross cut table and like it. Unfortunately as panels width increases, there is less miter bar in the track. This results in too much play, and the cuts are not square.
I've looked at several options. One is making a longer miter bar (wood or UHMW PE). This would eliminate the play in the miter track. I looked at the Appalachian tools sled, but my thinking is it would be quite heavy. The other option was the fence forward concept. Popular Woodworking and Woodcraft have similar designs for such a sled. Each has a longer miter bar than what SS provides. In any design, I recognize that support would be needed at both ends of the saw table.
Has anyone tried any of these ideas? Thanks.
Tom
I've looked at several options. One is making a longer miter bar (wood or UHMW PE). This would eliminate the play in the miter track. I looked at the Appalachian tools sled, but my thinking is it would be quite heavy. The other option was the fence forward concept. Popular Woodworking and Woodcraft have similar designs for such a sled. Each has a longer miter bar than what SS provides. In any design, I recognize that support would be needed at both ends of the saw table.
Has anyone tried any of these ideas? Thanks.
Tom
Tom Woods
- dusty
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Cross cut table
Yes Tom, I have used the cross cut sled in the manner that you describe and it does work better if you must cross cut material that is too wide to use on the cross cut sled in the conventional manner.
What I don't particularly care for is the fact that it becomes more difficult to "keep the stock against the fence". I realize that this is nothing more than my opinion but that is how I feel.
One thing that I have done to over come this perceived short coming is use clamps to keep the stock against the fence. Time consuming but functional.
Norm doesn't have this problem but then Norm has a table as large as a basketball court.
What I don't particularly care for is the fact that it becomes more difficult to "keep the stock against the fence". I realize that this is nothing more than my opinion but that is how I feel.
One thing that I have done to over come this perceived short coming is use clamps to keep the stock against the fence. Time consuming but functional.
Norm doesn't have this problem but then Norm has a table as large as a basketball court.

"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I am in agreement with IDH on cutting a panel too large to fit on my crosscut sled. My shop isn't big enough to take a 4 X 8 sheet and cut it into smaller pieces without having to move stuff out of the way, so I usually use a couple of saw horses with my circular saw and a straight edge guide clamped to the material to get it down to manageable pieces that I can maneuver on my SS without having to deal with issues that are talked about earlier in this thread.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I made a clothes hamper in January with panels about 18" wide. None was square using the cross cut sliding table due to the play in the miter bar. Fortunately, I was able to hide these problems with trim. I'm now going to undertake a large bedroom furniture project with most panels 20" or less. I can use a circular saw, but would rather use a fence with stop block if possible. That was the purpose of my inquiry.
I made a clothes hamper in January with panels about 18" wide. None was square using the cross cut sliding table due to the play in the miter bar. Fortunately, I was able to hide these problems with trim. I'm now going to undertake a large bedroom furniture project with most panels 20" or less. I can use a circular saw, but would rather use a fence with stop block if possible. That was the purpose of my inquiry.
Tom Woods
Wood Magazine has plans online for a panel cutting sled: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... ting-sled/
- chiroindixon
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- Location: QCA Iowa
I prefer to use my sled(s) whenever possible. My cuts come out dead square. I would recommend a tip that one of the TA instructors gave me years ago.
The miter gauge and the sled both will have a little "slop" riding in the miter track. To eliminate the effect, apply a slight amount of torque. I mostly work on the right side of the blade, so I grab the miter gauge with my left hand, giving it a slight twist "clockwise". I do a similar thing with my SS sled, holding back very slightly with my right hand as my left pushes forward. I emphasize
"slightly". Just enough to take the slack out between the miter/sled bar and track.
Try it a few times and stay consistent. You may have to adjust either/both tools, but once done, you should be square as can be.
Doc
The miter gauge and the sled both will have a little "slop" riding in the miter track. To eliminate the effect, apply a slight amount of torque. I mostly work on the right side of the blade, so I grab the miter gauge with my left hand, giving it a slight twist "clockwise". I do a similar thing with my SS sled, holding back very slightly with my right hand as my left pushes forward. I emphasize
"slightly". Just enough to take the slack out between the miter/sled bar and track.
Try it a few times and stay consistent. You may have to adjust either/both tools, but once done, you should be square as can be.
Doc
- a1gutterman
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Hi Tom,
I made a sled with the fence at the leading edge, just like you are asking about. I made it for a stand alone table saw, though, not my Mark V. It worked well for me. If you want, you can make the fence wide enough to mount a (or more then one) hold down on, to help hold the panel down. It was necessary for me to make my own miter bar for the sled as the one that came with the saw was too short. I also attached a yard stick to the front of the fence to reduce my measuring time. I wood simply place a clamp on the fence at the correct measurement on the yardstick. I built cabinets for an entire kitchen with that sled.
I made a sled with the fence at the leading edge, just like you are asking about. I made it for a stand alone table saw, though, not my Mark V. It worked well for me. If you want, you can make the fence wide enough to mount a (or more then one) hold down on, to help hold the panel down. It was necessary for me to make my own miter bar for the sled as the one that came with the saw was too short. I also attached a yard stick to the front of the fence to reduce my measuring time. I wood simply place a clamp on the fence at the correct measurement on the yardstick. I built cabinets for an entire kitchen with that sled.
Tim
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For breaking down sheet goods you may want to view the video by Wood Magazine called "Precision Cuts with Basic Tools"
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/file.j ... 1442789968
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/file.j ... 1442789968
Jim in Tucson