Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
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- RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:28 am
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
I agree with reible and charlese about doing some turning before buying a chuck. Not sure of your location but a turning club is a great asset, really shortens the learning curve. I bought and adapter from Penn State to adapt the SS to a 1" x 8 tpi thread. Buy chucks with a 1"-8 thread and you are set. That allowed me to use the same chucks on my Delta and Penn State lathe as I started down the slippery slope of woodturning. The Delta lathe is now gone and I was able to change the adapters to a 1 1/4" x 8 tpi thread to fit my Powermatic. Some of the chucks are a direct thread with no adapters required. I just got home from Hartville Hwd. I was demoing today. Nova is there and has the G3 chuck for $95 and the Super Nova 2 for $107 during the big sale today and tomorrow. All that being said of the 700 pens that I have turned about 250 were done on the SS. I still like to turn on it but I don't have a speed reducer so I like the mass of the 800lb Powermatic for larger bowls. Bob
- RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:28 am
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
After all that rambling, I forgot to mention that a chuck is a luxury not a necessity for turning bowls. Back in the day when chucks for wood lathes were not around we would glue felt on the bottom of our turnings to hide the screw holes. Wathch Bob's "no chuck " bowl vide and you will see that turning has come a long way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUwl1tpAao
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUwl1tpAao
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
You mention that you know little about turning. As mentioned, it can get pricey to play.
The face plate was mentioned so I won't say anything other than it is a very reasonable option to see if you like turning vessels. I had a wise person get me started on spindle turning. Basically like pens but using two end pieces to hold the stock rather than a mandrel for the hollowed out pen blank. I turned ALOT of 2by2s (made from cut 2by4s) into bizarre shapes that eventually resembled candle sticks and such. It gave me an idea of what turning was like to see if I wanted to continue. Then he taught me how to turn bowls using the face plate method.
Turn the clock 40 years forward and I found myself relearning the techniques, though now I am older and appreciate the time spent preparing.
Personally, I thnk you can learn much about turning and what you like and don't like without starting down the road of buying chucks and chisels and sharpening systems,
When you figure out if turning vessels is something you like, then you will decided how much of your hard earned cash you are willing to part with buying new toys.
Just my opinion.
Be well,
Ben
The face plate was mentioned so I won't say anything other than it is a very reasonable option to see if you like turning vessels. I had a wise person get me started on spindle turning. Basically like pens but using two end pieces to hold the stock rather than a mandrel for the hollowed out pen blank. I turned ALOT of 2by2s (made from cut 2by4s) into bizarre shapes that eventually resembled candle sticks and such. It gave me an idea of what turning was like to see if I wanted to continue. Then he taught me how to turn bowls using the face plate method.
Turn the clock 40 years forward and I found myself relearning the techniques, though now I am older and appreciate the time spent preparing.
Personally, I thnk you can learn much about turning and what you like and don't like without starting down the road of buying chucks and chisels and sharpening systems,
When you figure out if turning vessels is something you like, then you will decided how much of your hard earned cash you are willing to part with buying new toys.
Just my opinion.
Be well,
Ben
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
Oldiron
My Nova is the G3 and the Oneway is the Talon. Both manufacturers make a 5/8 plain adaptor which makes them good for the Shopsmith. I have a Power Pro headstock so the 5/8 adaptor on the Talon is held to the chuck body with three screws and when the chuck is locked to the spindle with the setscrew it can be used with reverse rotation without having the chuck coming off the spindle. When ordering the SS adaptor from Teknatool/Nova make sure you order the SS specific adaptor. It is "ISNS" model and the second "S" indicates the SS.
Bill V
My Nova is the G3 and the Oneway is the Talon. Both manufacturers make a 5/8 plain adaptor which makes them good for the Shopsmith. I have a Power Pro headstock so the 5/8 adaptor on the Talon is held to the chuck body with three screws and when the chuck is locked to the spindle with the setscrew it can be used with reverse rotation without having the chuck coming off the spindle. When ordering the SS adaptor from Teknatool/Nova make sure you order the SS specific adaptor. It is "ISNS" model and the second "S" indicates the SS.
Bill V
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
I just dropped by the local Woodcraft store to ask their opinion and to peruse around a bit. From what I gathered there, and here, it seems like I'll be good to start with a faceplate. So that's the route I'm looking at going for now.
I appreciate the many opinions and thoughts.
Oddly enough, he couldn't set me up with the right insert and faceplate though. He had a few inserts, but they were all 1 1/2" diameter. All of his faceplates were 1 1/4" diameter. I don't mind the wait of purchasing online, but this brings me to a new question.
Which insert/faceplate combo should I get? Do I go for the 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" diameter threads? I know the bore has to be 5/8". And as previously mentioned, I need to make sure that the set screw goes straight down into the spindle (like all other shopsmith chucks/arbors), which is how theirs was set up. So I'll be sure whichever one I get, I'll not make the mistake of getting the vertical/clamping set screw. Thanks for that tip, reible.
I'm trying to look to the future, and when I go to purchase a chuck or other various attachments. Which is more common/versatile? 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" threads (both 8TPI).
I appreciate the many opinions and thoughts.
Oddly enough, he couldn't set me up with the right insert and faceplate though. He had a few inserts, but they were all 1 1/2" diameter. All of his faceplates were 1 1/4" diameter. I don't mind the wait of purchasing online, but this brings me to a new question.
Which insert/faceplate combo should I get? Do I go for the 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" diameter threads? I know the bore has to be 5/8". And as previously mentioned, I need to make sure that the set screw goes straight down into the spindle (like all other shopsmith chucks/arbors), which is how theirs was set up. So I'll be sure whichever one I get, I'll not make the mistake of getting the vertical/clamping set screw. Thanks for that tip, reible.
I'm trying to look to the future, and when I go to purchase a chuck or other various attachments. Which is more common/versatile? 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" threads (both 8TPI).
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
The proper insert is:rudy49 wrote:Not wishing to be contrary, but I recently purchased a Nova G3 chuck, with 3 accessory jaws from Woodcraft for $149. I purchased a 5/8 to 0 adapter for $30. The adapter works very well.
SS makes great equipment and materials at a good price but sometimes better deals are out there.
Larry
ISNS INSERT S 5/8" Plain Bore Designed Specifically for Shopsmith Pro V, Power Pro Machines.
If you have any other insert it is not correct so take it back and get the right one or contact the manufacturer to get this corrected. It is not a matter discussion.
You can check out this site for adapter information:
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathe ... r_page.htm
The adapter will be stamped with the ISNS so there should be no doubt of which one you have.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
Is this really true? I understand the concept but is this really what SS does, slant the set screws. My bet is no. Sorry Ed but I think you had another problem besides a "not really a SS adapter".reible wrote:When I started turning, which was in High School shop class we didn't have chucks, not even sure if anyone did back then.
Face plates, I agree it is a good way to start. Shopsmith has both a 3-1/2"(?) and a 6" so that is plenty to start with. Normally you use a block attached to the face plate with screws and then a glue joint between that and the work piece. I would check out the PTWFE chapter on lathe turning as a good place to start.
If and when you want to move to a chuck then you will have some experience and have a better idea of what you are looking for.
Chucks in general require a way to mount to a shopsmiths 5/8" shaft, this is not a common thing in the world of lathe's. This adapter will then allow the chuck to be mounted. This is a sticking point with me so bear with this, some people are selling a 5/8" plain bore adapter but they are not designed for a shopsmith. What makes this harder then it needs to be is that they will even say it is for a shopsmith. For it to be for a shopsmith it needs the set screw to be at a angle that matches the flat on the shopsmith spindle. I made the mistake of getting a 5/8" to 1-8tpi adapter and it would not stay tight..... long story short it had a very loose thread(metric) and the setscrew was vertical. I had to re-drill on opposite side using a imperial setscrew with the proper fit and at an angle. To be honest I still don't trust it and it has been replaced. So far everything I have gotten from PSI has been a disappointment, I now avoid anything they sell.
I personally have two chucks, both Nova and I went that way because they have pretty decent workmanship and are a respected company. One nice thing with their chucks is that for the most part the jaws (which are purchased separately) are interchangeable between chucks. The jaws allow various mounting methods so as you expand your craft these become desirable additions. Picking a chuck with a lot of jaw options is in my way of thinking a good idea.
Price wise you pretty much get what you pay for. I would avoid any of the cheaper chucks. You are talking anything with a selling price of say $100 is more then likely a waste of money. Again this is my opinion but I'm sticking with it.
This lathe hobby has gotten to be an expensive road to go down. Once you get a started you will find you want other chisels, then come a way to sharpen them, and oh by the way you will want a speed lower then 700 rpms which leads to a speed reducer or powerpro.......... The price of the chuck will be off set very quickly by the cost of all the extras. Woodworking is not a cheap hobby unless you have a lot of self control.
Ed
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
So how does $100 sound? I'll let you prove it to yourself and then send the $100 to your favorite charity. Deal?
Ed
Ed
jsburger wrote:Is this really true? I understand the concept but is this really what SS does, slant the set screws. My bet is no. Sorry Ed but I think you had another problem besides a "not really a SS adapter".reible wrote:When I started turning, which was in High School shop class we didn't have chucks, not even sure if anyone did back then.
Face plates, I agree it is a good way to start. Shopsmith has both a 3-1/2"(?) and a 6" so that is plenty to start with. Normally you use a block attached to the face plate with screws and then a glue joint between that and the work piece. I would check out the PTWFE chapter on lathe turning as a good place to start.
If and when you want to move to a chuck then you will have some experience and have a better idea of what you are looking for.
Chucks in general require a way to mount to a shopsmiths 5/8" shaft, this is not a common thing in the world of lathe's. This adapter will then allow the chuck to be mounted. This is a sticking point with me so bear with this, some people are selling a 5/8" plain bore adapter but they are not designed for a shopsmith. What makes this harder then it needs to be is that they will even say it is for a shopsmith. For it to be for a shopsmith it needs the set screw to be at a angle that matches the flat on the shopsmith spindle. I made the mistake of getting a 5/8" to 1-8tpi adapter and it would not stay tight..... long story short it had a very loose thread(metric) and the setscrew was vertical. I had to re-drill on opposite side using a imperial setscrew with the proper fit and at an angle. To be honest I still don't trust it and it has been replaced. So far everything I have gotten from PSI has been a disappointment, I now avoid anything they sell.
I personally have two chucks, both Nova and I went that way because they have pretty decent workmanship and are a respected company. One nice thing with their chucks is that for the most part the jaws (which are purchased separately) are interchangeable between chucks. The jaws allow various mounting methods so as you expand your craft these become desirable additions. Picking a chuck with a lot of jaw options is in my way of thinking a good idea.
Price wise you pretty much get what you pay for. I would avoid any of the cheaper chucks. You are talking anything with a selling price of say $100 is more then likely a waste of money. Again this is my opinion but I'm sticking with it.
This lathe hobby has gotten to be an expensive road to go down. Once you get a started you will find you want other chisels, then come a way to sharpen them, and oh by the way you will want a speed lower then 700 rpms which leads to a speed reducer or powerpro.......... The price of the chuck will be off set very quickly by the cost of all the extras. Woodworking is not a cheap hobby unless you have a lot of self control.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
Thanks Bill!wa2crk wrote:Oldiron
My Nova is the G3 and the Oneway is the Talon. Both manufacturers make a 5/8 plain adaptor which makes them good for the Shopsmith. I have a Power Pro headstock so the 5/8 adaptor on the Talon is held to the chuck body with three screws and when the chuck is locked to the spindle with the setscrew it can be used with reverse rotation without having the chuck coming off the spindle. When ordering the SS adaptor from Teknatool/Nova make sure you order the SS specific adaptor. It is "ISNS" model and the second "S" indicates the SS.
Bill V
I've run the spur center along with face plates and looking to possibly step up to a chuck for recess or tenon turning.
Mike
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3814
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Re: Lathe chucks - What (not) to get?
Add on the cost of the pin jaws that Shopsmith bundles before you compare the total price. I followed G3 prices on Amazon, eBay, etc. for quite a while. The best deal was the bundle from Shopsmith when they ran one of their periodic specials, and that's when I pulled the trigger. You need to sign up for their email specials, though, or the SS deals are easy to miss.rudy49 wrote:Not wishing to be contrary, but I recently purchased a Nova G3 chuck, with 3 accessory jaws from Woodcraft for $149. I purchased a 5/8 to 0 adapter for $30. The adapter works very well.
SS makes great equipment and materials at a good price but sometimes better deals are out there.
Larry