JPG wrote:For derusting the way tubes, a 2" pvc pipe plugged at one end and a threaded plug at the other cut to about 5' lemgth. Insert way tube. Fill with evaporust. Insert a plugged 1" pvc pipe to reduce amount of evaporust needed.
Let soak over night.
Or cut up some potatoes, place them in pipe with tube and fill with water.
Let it rot for a month.
Finally remove and rinse off the water or let the evaporust dry.
When ready very light polishing will reveal all the steel that was there when you started, but minus the oxidation.
Abrasion works, but does remove good material as well.
Abrasion removes material, but only removes about 4 thousands or so of material in my experience, hardly enough to make a difference especially with the ER tubes ....
'Polishing' only takes less than 5 minutes. How long to remove that 0.004"?
OK, Carry on ....
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Those pits will hold lubricating oils, (whatever
you use) and keep the registration correct.
Dick, love you. bro. Sorry to diss you here.
I'm going on what a Model 10 forum member
says, and HIS shop is 100 yards from the ocean,
in the Philippines. (Glen Mead, and he does post
here sometimes.) Glen also only uses mineral
oil on ALL his lubrication areas. Works for him.
steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.
Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
I did a small turning project yesterday just to see what i remember from highschool lol! I am going to start working on those tubes today with the steel wool and then lubing them up! Thank you all so much for all your help!
When I restored my SS I used steel wool and PB Blaster for the rust as well as a brass wire wheel. There was definitely less effort using the wire wheel!
Jake
Spokane, WA
Shopsmith Mark V S/N: 354008 Born: 1958/Restored: 2015
Magna Bandsaw S/N: 31575 Born: 1956/Restored 2016
Magna Jointer S/N: 67527 Born: 1958/Restored: 2015
Another excellent rust remover is a "Apple cider vinegar" soak. However, You must submerge the entire way tube in the vinegar. Depending on the level of rust, It will take 1 to 5 days to eat the rust off.
After the soak, The way tube needs to be thoroughly rinsed with fresh water and "swab" the inside of the tube with a light weight oil soaked rag.
To prevent "flash" rusting, Immediately apply wax to the outside of the tube after rinsing.
Pvc pipe capped at one end and the apple cider vinegar is all that's needed.
Once again, the "Entire" tube "Must be" submerged in the vinegar otherwise, you will have heavy rusting on any part which is not submerged!!!
The tube will come out of the vinegar with a heavy gray to black film however, It will wipe right off. Just make sure your wearing waterproof gloves otherwise, it will take a day or two to wash out of your skins pores...
Those pits will hold lubricating oils, (whatever
you use) and keep the registration correct.
Dick, love you. bro. Sorry to diss you here.
I'm going on what a Model 10 forum member
says, and HIS shop is 100 yards from the ocean,
in the Philippines. (Glen Mead, and he does post
here sometimes.) Glen also only uses mineral
oil on ALL his lubrication areas. Works for him.
steve
Love you too brother, but I still stand by my method. My method, I think, looks better cosmetically, is faster (I use a machine method) and the rust pits are metal already removed. So the loss of a little more material loss is immaterial.
Using wax (as in the Shopsmith way) builds an encasement of protection evenly and uniformly across the tubes. Since the loss of metal with oxidation (rust ) has already affected the registration, if that is important (which I think is a non issue anyway).
Just my .02
BTW, I got home OK and have the Speed Changer ready to rebuild along with the casters. Thanks again Steve, hope the Jointer works out for you!
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Guys, Dick visited me yesterday, and I got a Mark series Jointer out of the deal.
Except for being an older (no dust collection) model, this thing looks MINT!
tables are spotless, and the blades are DANG sharp.
THANKS, Dick!
steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.
Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I thought I had noticed the big M on the guard earlier, so I went
out and looked. This is a Magna jointer. (Or, the guard is from
a Magna jointer.)
Now, to refurbish the Franken-10, to get this running!
steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.
Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
charlese wrote:
Wow! This speaks LOUDLY about the durability and usefulness of a 50+ year old woodworking machine. Pray tell, what other woodworking machine would be able to make such a splash. Not only is a single person very happy over possessing such a machine, but quite a few others are proud owners of similar machines and are eager to offer help to each other. What other machine has achieved this longevity? What other brand has achieved such a popularity and support?
Shopsmith was, and is, one of the very best woodworking devices. We are all proud of this brand and are happy to help one another.
Best Wishes!
Chuck, by my (weird) math, close to 70 years! 1947 to 2016? 69 years.
At the latest, 1952 to 2016. 64 years.
But, STILL going strong, and making Mark 7s!
(They are still using Model 10s in the factory,
aren't they?)
steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.
Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
