beeg wrote:Any one have an idea about removing titebond III from a shop apron? I didn't notice it in time, so it's been on there for awhile. I tried goo gone, but it didn't touch it.
My method is pretty simple and works 100% of the time. There are three steps.
1) Let the glue and stains build up until you can't stand it any more.
2) Buy a new apron.
3) Then repeat the first two.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
"Well okay my wife does as I'm rolling around on the floor trying to catch my breath or stop the pain somewhere in my body.
And is she laughing at you Ed, or just snickering?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
beeg wrote:"Well okay my wife does as I'm rolling around on the floor trying to catch my breath or stop the pain somewhere in my body.
And is she laughing at you Ed, or just snickering?
Beeg
My wife has master the ability to laugh herself silly while keeping a straight face and saying it's alright honey I don't think it will leave a permanent mark.
Ed
The reason that wood glue is so hard to get out of clothes is that the glue actually becomes part of the substance that it is adhering to. This is what is called the “interface” in adhesive chemistry – the point where the glue forms both a chemical and mechanical bond with the fibers. When there is a good interface, you cannot break a glued wooden joint except by breaking the wood itself. The same holds for cloth – you cannot remove the glue from the fibers without removing some of the fibers themselves.
That said, there are four possible solutions to this problem:
1. Heat the glue-stained area with an iron until the glue melts then blot away as much of the melted glue as possible with an old rag.
2. Soak the glue-stained area in white vinegar until the glue loosens.
3. Soak the glue-stained area in ammonia until the glue loosens.
4. Soak the glue-stained area in amyl acetate (a dry-cleaning chemical) until the glue loosens.
All of these methods are generally more effective with white (polyvinyl) glue than they are with yellow (aliphatic resin) glue.
You may want to ask yourself if removing the glue is really a worthy goal. I have carefully cultivated the habit of wiping my hands on my jeans whenever I apply glue and find a little extra glue on my fingers. As the glue has built up, my pants have become indestructible. There are no tears or worn spots wherever there is sufficient glue. Should an area begin to show wear, I simply wipe glue on it. As a result the jeans have lasted me for more years than I can count. A quick measurement at my local physics lab shows that they are actually 2.4 times stronger than Kevlar and that another 6 to 7 years of wiping glue on them will bring the strength up to the point where I can build railroad bridges from denim. Technology like this, I am convinced, will one day result in lightweight, high-strength materials that will take us to Mars and back – provided we don’t stick to the surface.
