Jointer Hex Nut Tension

[Sazerac81]

Hey all,

I've read the manual a few times and I know that in general you want the adjustment to move freely, but also have enough tension so that it doesn't shift when running the jointer.

So, when I secure the hex nut, I generally tighten by hand until I can't tighten anymore and then I tighten with hex wrench by about a quarter turn. I get just a hair of 'wobble' on the infeed side. What I mean by wobble is that when I put weight on the end (or beginning) of the infeed table, the table moves just a hair downward. I find if I tighten it too much beyond this point, the adjustment knob becomes hard to adjust.

I was just wondering how much tension you all are keeping on that securement hex nut.

The hex nut I am referring to is under 5 washers, 3 silver flat ones and 2 black tension washers sandwiched between the flat washers.

Cheers,
John

[ERLover]

I surmise that set up with the washers and hex nut should be snug so you can still adjust table/cut depth. Seems to me by my experience with mine you are putting too much down pressure on the infeed table or is the infeed table properly mounted in it gibs?

[Sazerac81]

I surmise that set up with the washers and hex nut should be snug so you can still adjust table/cut depth. Seems to me by my experience with mine you are putting too much down pressure on the infeed table or is the infeed table properly mounted in it gibs?

Everything is mounted properly, the infeed table is running within its rails.

I am not putting that much pressure on the infeed table when I am jointing, I am just checking stability by putting a little extra pressure to test the tension of the hex nut.

If you put approximately half your weight on the beginning of the infeed table, are you able to get just a hair of wobble or is it rock solid and doesn't move at all even while still being able to easily adjust the depth of cut knob.

I find that I get just a hair of wobble (just the slightest movement up and down) and am still able to adjust cut of depth easily without muscling the depth of cut knob. I was just wondering how stable other people's setups are when they properly adjust their hex nuts. When I am jointing, I don't push down excessively so there is no wobble (of course this would be bad while in the jointing process).

I suppose it's always harder to explain with words than to actually see the person act out the procedure.

Cheers,
John

[JPG]

Not included in this discussion is the position of the infeed table(cutting depth). At close to zero depth it should be pretty solid. Now I do not put 120# pressure(half my weight!) on the infeed table EVER!

I can envision it getting more prone to deflection(whatever direction) as the infeed table is lowered, but half weight is IMHO excessive even if thee is a 100# 'weakling'.

[Sazerac81]

Not included in this discussion is the position of the infeed table(cutting depth). At close to zero depth it should be pretty solid. Now I do not put 120# pressure(half my weight!) on the infeed table EVER!

I can envision it getting more prone to deflection(whatever direction) as the infeed table is lowered, but half weight is IMHO excessive even if thee is a 100# 'weakling'.

Haha, ok, maybe an eighth to a quarter of someone's weight depending on weight. At 0 depth of cut, just a bit of wobble putting about 20-30 pounds of pressure downward on the end.

I guess it's a moot point. I always do a wobble test on anything that I secure. . I am sure you guys do the same. I just wanted to know what level of play was considered acceptable.

Cheers,
John

[JPG]

FWIW, the torque required(height adjust) to move the table is considerably greater than that needed without the spring washer compressed. Is it possible you were reluctant to torque the nut a bit?

[ERLover]

Now I dont have a scale on down pressure scale, but when I joint an edge or face I am sure I am not putting more the 10lbs pressure, why would you need more? Dull Blades or a gorilla.