Chris,
I've done the band saw in copper also. I'm just waiting for the paint to cure a little before I put it back together. I'm probably going to need to buy some new tires for it. The ones on it now are in rather poor condition.
ShopSmith Refurb w/pictures
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ShopSmith Refurb w/pictures
For the brave souls, I have been placing my just painted Rustoleum Hammered spray can painted items in a converted stove oven (used for power coating) at 200 degrees for 30-45 minutes to harden the paint. This does not work for other brands of paint that I have tried, only the Rustoleum brand. If interested, I would recommend trying one item first to see the results. I find a spray can clamp-on handle really helps to control the spray pattern.
judaspre1982 wrote:kaba, nice work. Colors look good. Much better looking than original industrial grey color. The Rust-Oleum Hammerd Finish has worked out well on my project. Make sure you give the paint plenty of time to cure before any ruff service. After about two weeks the paint seemed to be at its best durability level. Good Luck----- Dave
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Bill,
I've given some thought to just what you suggested. I have used a product called Cerama Coat by Wheeler Engineering to refinish three firearms. The instructions call for it to be baked at 350 degrees for one hour after three application coats. It is without a doubt the most durable spray-on finish I've found. About the only way to remove it after curing is to sand-blast it off and even that isn't easy. But it is pricey, about $20/4 oz can. And it is only available in flat black.
I'm also looking at a product called VHT for Very High Temperature paint. It is for refinishing auto exhaust and calls for three different baking cycles to cure. (The final baking cycle at 600 degrees.) It is available in about 6 basic colors. My table saw insert is rather badly chipped and I've been thinking about trying some of that.
I've given some thought to just what you suggested. I have used a product called Cerama Coat by Wheeler Engineering to refinish three firearms. The instructions call for it to be baked at 350 degrees for one hour after three application coats. It is without a doubt the most durable spray-on finish I've found. About the only way to remove it after curing is to sand-blast it off and even that isn't easy. But it is pricey, about $20/4 oz can. And it is only available in flat black.
I'm also looking at a product called VHT for Very High Temperature paint. It is for refinishing auto exhaust and calls for three different baking cycles to cure. (The final baking cycle at 600 degrees.) It is available in about 6 basic colors. My table saw insert is rather badly chipped and I've been thinking about trying some of that.
Onboard Storage Added
Since I last posted I've added some on board storage for tools and accessories.
The box to the left is for Lathe Accessories. it contains my tail stock, tool rest, centers, and an old set of chisels my father left me twenty years ago.
In the center is a box to hold my drill press accessories. It contains drill bits, chuck and key, and a circle cutter.
On the right is just a block of wood that I drilled to hold my saw blade arbors.
I can remove any one of these as needed.
When not needed these all store snugly in the leg braces I'd added earlier. I also added a jig that securely holds my saw fence when not in use on the left. The top of the boxes, when in their storage location, also create a little shelf.
The Blade Insert is missing in this photo because it is being painted.
The box to the left is for Lathe Accessories. it contains my tail stock, tool rest, centers, and an old set of chisels my father left me twenty years ago.
In the center is a box to hold my drill press accessories. It contains drill bits, chuck and key, and a circle cutter.
On the right is just a block of wood that I drilled to hold my saw blade arbors.
I can remove any one of these as needed.When not needed these all store snugly in the leg braces I'd added earlier. I also added a jig that securely holds my saw fence when not in use on the left. The top of the boxes, when in their storage location, also create a little shelf.
The Blade Insert is missing in this photo because it is being painted.