Miterset official SS Accessory

[JPG]

So ya got something more accurate than 0.5 degree to set it with? Starrett not allowed!

As for the miter slot/blade ?, the miter gauge face sets the angle and the miter bar sets the direction. The blade front sets the point of cutting. Any miter slot/blade deviation will result in the workpiece either drifting towards or away from the plate of the saw behind the teeth. A minimal amount of concavity would also result(assuming TS - I like BS better).

Now about that 0.5° 'error'. Over a 1" width, that deviation results in a 0.009" error. Significant? In steel maybe. Wood? I donno!

[BuckeyeDennis]

To All

The stated accuracy of this system is .5 deg. Tolerance for segment cutting is actually 0 deg. I would almost have to try this to see if it works out OK or if there will be a gap when the last segment is cut. The math required is not all that difficult. 180 divided by the number of sides equals the angle that the miter saw is set to.
Second question is that if the miter slots on the Shopsmith are not exactly parallel to the saw blade, will this change the actual angle of the cut? From what I get from the video the angle of the miter gauge face is set in reference to the miter gauge bar. So if the table is off slightly it will alter the overall angle of the cut. Yes? or No?
What say the experts?
Charlese has a previous post that shows an eleven segment circle and the cuts seem to come together seamlessly
That is somewhat difficult to do because the circle's diameter is not along a glue line of two segments. With an even number of segments the diameter of the circle will be along the glue line of two segments on opposite sides of the circle. The faces of those segments can be sanded to come together seamlessly to form a circle. Much more difficult with an odd number of segments!!! My hat is off to Charlese.
But I just got an E-Mail from the MS offering a special shipping rate so I still might spring.
Bill V

Bill, I just looked at the MiterSet product page on the Shopsmith website. It says that you can choose angles on the standard jig in increments (i.e. resolution) of 1/2 degree, but I didn't see accuracy specs for either jig.

A garden-variety CNC machine can easily hold tolerances of 0.005". And the jigs are designed such that the two pins will always have a fair distance between them. So I'd guesstimate that the accuracy of the jigs is on the order of a tenth of a degree. Maybe better.

[wa2crk]

JPG and Buckeye
I have been using a digital protractor and still have to fine tune the two half circles to fit. As for JPG's comment you are correct but a 1/2 deg error on 24 cuts for a 12 segment ring accumulates to an error of 12 degrees when the parts are assembled.and I am sure that that would be a problem. Easily corrected when there are an even number of segments in the circle but not so easy for an odd number.
I may be guilty of overthinking and most times I have a tendency to do that. If the miter bar is parallel to the face of the sawblade and I set the angle of the head to 15 deg to the bar then the angle of the face to the blade is also 15 deg. Now if I move the bar one deg to the right ( CW) I don't change the angle from the face to the blade body by one deg?
Guess I will have to rethink and not overthink.
Bill V

[JPG]

I agree the angle error will be accumulative and the miter bar to miter gauge face are therefore critical, but the question I was trying to answer was the importance of miter slot to blade error.

Not terribly obvious in this sketch, but the blade is clearly not parallel to the slot, but the cut line is parallel to the slot.

MITER SLOT - BLADE ANGLE ERROR.jpg (73.31 KiB) Viewed 9457 times

[reible]

I went another way but it would be interesting to compare what I have to what this would give me, not worth the extra cost at this point but perhaps someone already has this same hardware? If so I'd like to here about it.

I have the shopsmith version of the miter express and I got the incra 1000HD miter gauge for it. The 1000HD doesn't have a shopsmith version but it will work with the miter express on the shopsmith.

You can check the specs on the miter gauge here:

http://www.rockler.com/incra-miter-1000hd-miter-gauge

It also had the same length issue covered so that is a step farther along the way to get these to come out right. Of course you also pay more for it.

Ed

[benush26]

JPG and Buckeye
I have been using a digital protractor and still have to fine tune the two half circles to fit. As for JPG's comment you are correct but a 1/2 deg error on 24 cuts for a 12 segment ring accumulates to an error of 12 degrees when the parts are assembled.and I am sure that that would be a problem. Easily corrected when there are an even number of segments in the circle but not so easy for an odd number.
I may be guilty of overthinking and most times I have a tendency to do that. If the miter bar is parallel to the face of the sawblade and I set the angle of the head to 15 deg to the bar then the angle of the face to the blade is also 15 deg. Now if I move the bar one deg to the right ( CW) I don't change the angle from the face to the blade body by one deg?
Guess I will have to rethink and not overthink.
Bill V

I'm not certain I want to interject here but with some trepidation will throw in a few cents.
First, depending on your uses for the MiterSet, you "may not" be happy with the results from the MiterSet to SS miter gauge interface. I have both degree and segment (the older wooden versions) and they are good to decent but not really "precise" when making segmented projects in stages. Acceptable for most stuff, yes, but if you are going to make bowls and vases, the errors can really show. Granted some of the error can occur because the length of the segments are not consistent, but even with that eliminated, the setup can vary each time you use the pins and bar.
By reading what you have written, I think that nice looking bowls and vases may be a goal of yours. If I am incorrect ((which happens often on days that end in "Y" ), ignore anything and everything that write. It's much safer and saner that way!
Please don't get me wrong. For frames and items where you can blend or hide the seams, the MiterSet is a very plausible solution. If you are going to do segmented stuff and glue up quarter section which you can sand to mate surfaces, it's okay. Much of the seam gets hidden when you turn, though occasionally I have seen where the outer edges are glued and not so much the inner. When the gouge finds that gap, that's when the piece blows apart fairly dramatically!

If you want to discuss alternatives for cutting segments, I have a couple, but for now I'll leave that part of the equation out of this thread.

Anyway, sorry if this does not help and even more sorry if it hinders!

Be well,
Ben

[moggymatt]

Well, I bought mine after all the good reviews and before all the "other" reviews so I know mine will only set my miter up for perfect cuts, so there!

[benush26]

Well, I bought mine after all the good reviews and before all the "other" reviews so I know mine will only set my miter up for perfect cuts, so there!

I do remember reading something that the magnetic force of Spokane Falls pulls all woodworking tools into perfect alignment. Something to do with an offset to all the missing silver in Idaho!

Be well,
Ben

[Gene Howe]

I've owned both the Miter Sets for several years and have found them to be quite accurate for my uses.
My miter gauge is one that Kreg modified for me to fit the SS.

[charlese]

To All

The stated accuracy of this system is .5 deg. Tolerance for segment cutting is actually 0 deg....

Charlese has a previous post that shows an eleven segment circle and the cuts seem to come together seamlessly
That is somewhat difficult to do because the circle's diameter is not along a glue line of two segments. With an even number of segments the diameter of the circle will be along the glue line of two segments on opposite sides of the circle. The faces of those segments can be sanded to come together seamlessly to form a circle. Much more difficult with an odd number of segments!!! My hat is off to Charlese.
But I just got an E-Mail from the MS offering a special shipping rate so I still might spring.
Bill V

Put your hat back on, Bill. Thanks for the compliment, but this 11 piece circle was very easy to saw and glue. I chose an odd number of segments only because this would cause a wierd angle. Wanted to see if it worked. The hardest part was to set the stop block on the miter gauge where it would give a segment that was long enough to hold and short enough so the circle wouldn't become too large.

The sawing was simple and fast. The gluing of the segments was done with a strap with a small winch.

The degree setting was 32.72727272 degrees That's wierd!

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Just read Ben's post on segmented bowls. There's a challenge I might give a try. Right now it seems to me the challenge would be in the sawing of the small (short) segments. Without thinking too much, a 19 segment bowl might not need very much turning, just sanding?