To start off, I always tighten the chuck down in each of the three holes.
In thinking(bad idea,I know) about that, the holes are just that, holes to insert the chuck key. The ring that's turned by the chuck key, tightens all three jaws, no matter which hole you use. Why do we tighten the chuck in all three holes then?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
Why? Because of the slop in the gears inside of the chuck. We can take much of the internal tension off of the internal works of the chuck by using several holes.
You can feel the benefits of using all three holes by using just a small amount of pressure (torque) on the key at the first hole - then using the same amount of small torque on the second and third holes. Now if you continue around to the first hole you will find either the chuck is tight, or you will need a lot more torque to tighten just a small bit.
You can also use that same procedure to loosen a bit from a chuck. Only sometimes has this really worked real good for me, but I try it every time the first hole is quite tight. When the first hole is really tight, sometimes the second hole does the trick with a noticeable lesser amount of effort.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I agree in using all three holes to tighten the scroll chuck for the lathe. It helps in creating even pressure around the spigot of the workpiece you are turning. Same holds true when tightening a drill bit in a chuck.
It sort of reminds me of the procedure on how you tighten the lug nuts on a wheel of a automobile. Same principle.
I wonder if this is where some of the wobble came from when I was using my hex-shank countersink bit? I can't wait to try this when I get home! (I am in Boston for a conference.)