Work bench top

[jsburger]

JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.

I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.

Looking at your shop, John, I would not refer to you as a traditionalist. You are, in my mind, somewhat "out-of-the-ordinary" especially as a home craftsman. You have a really nice shop and it is also nicely equipped. It therefore deserves a nice dedicated hard wood work bench. But it is not a traditional shop.

My garage shop is what I consider to be a shop for the traditional home hobby workshop.

Having said that, my work bench areas are all made using salvaged hard core doors that have been recovered at least three times with new sheets of 1/4" hardboard. I think the most important characteristics are that the bench be flat, level and solid. To be solid, it might have to be heavy. Mine meet all of those qualifications and I will probably die with the same workbenches in place (hopefully with a couple new top surfaces).

I guess if you take any given shop as a whole the word traditional would not really fit any one of them.

[charlese]

...

I have seen shops with magnificent work benches and I have seen shops with benches that looked like they were used 100 years in a machine shop. I have seen the finished products from each type of shop. To me the bench does not make the craftsman or even signify a craftsman. It is the finished work the person does.

In my opinion, the above quote from Ed in Tampa is right on! Of course, you may disagree.
I love my workbench made from three layers of hard MDF. Why three layers? So I could have a slide out that increases the size of my bench to almost double.

In putting the three layers together, I left four spaces, each 4" wide. then I could slide four 4" boards (3/4" thick) into these spaces. Now, to finish the 4" slides and the edge of the slidout - I routed a stop groove into the bottom of the slides and installed a plug into the bottom of the bench. The plug fits into the groove and prevents the slideout from being removed from the bench. The outside of the slideout is made from three pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood.

The slidout allows me to litter the bench with tools and still have space to have a larger bench.

Here is a photo of using the slideout to support another puece of MDF while sawing.

straight edge - circle saw.jpg (118.86 KiB) Viewed 9717 times

I have a folding table that fits level with my workbench but I want to show the "Expanded workbench" to hold the Shopsmith main table.

table with expanded workbench.jpg (126.48 KiB) Viewed 9709 times

[masonsailor2]

My preference is two layers of 3/4 particle board. I tend to tear up my bench surface pretty quickly as I drill, cut, router etc on it. I also will use a hole saw and create holes big enough to insert bar or pipe clamps through for difficult clamping situations. I just replace the top layer periodically which gives me a cheap and easily renewable surface. I lay one on top of the other, screw them together with 1 1/4" screws then drill a 3/8" hole about an inch or so from each screw and glue in some 3/8" dowels. After the glue is dried I cut the dowels off flush and remove all the screws. That way when I am using tools such as a router or saw I don't have to worry about hitting a screw. When I go to replace the top piece I just use a 1/2" forstner bit to drill out the dowels and start over.
Paul

[moggymatt]

In my opinion, the above quote from Ed in Tampa is right on! Of course, you may disagree.
I love my workbench made from three layers of hard MDF. Why three layers? So I could have a slide out that increases the size of my bench to almost double.

In putting the three layers together, I left four spaces, each 4" wide. then I could slide four 4" boards (3/4" thick) into these spaces. Now, to finish the 4" slides and the edge of the slidout - I routed a stop groove into the bottom of the slides and installed a plug into the bottom of the bench. The plug fits into the groove and prevents the slideout from being removed from the bench. The outside of the slideout is made from three pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood.

The slidout allows me to litter the bench with tools and still have space to have a larger bench.

I like that idea, hadn't seen that before. I might incorporate that into one side.

[terrydowning]

best bench I ever made is this one.
ALA Paul Sellers English Joiner's Bench.
but smaller 5 feet long, 22 inches deep.

2014-10-26 12.59.46SM.jpg (288.53 KiB) Viewed 9620 times

Nothing wrong with Big Big White wood IMO. The only thing that beats it is free/found wood.

it's a WORK bench not fine furniture.

Wagon vise and leg vise are wedge powered (Thanks shipwright!) and they do the job I need them to do.

Total cost on this bench was under $50. All hand tool construction principally used for working with hand tools. YES my "Good" planes do touch the surface of this bench and yes it was flattened with a very nice 22" Millers Falls Jointer. (flat enough for me.) Followed by my Miller's Falls smooth plane. After 2 years of use, it's time to clean and possibly flatten again.

just my .02 on the workbench subject.

[BuckeyeDennis]

best bench I ever made is this one.
ALA Paul Sellers English Joiner's Bench.
but smaller 5 feet long, 22 inches deep.
2014-10-26 12.59.46SM.jpg

Nothing wrong with Big Big White wood IMO. The only thing that beats it is free/found wood.

it's a WORK bench not fine furniture.

Wagon vise and leg vise are wedge powered (Thanks shipwright!) and they do the job I need them to do.

Total cost on this bench was under $50. All hand tool construction principally used for working with hand tools. YES my "Good" planes do touch the surface of this bench and yes it was flattened with a very nice 22" Millers Falls Jointer. (flat enough for me.) Followed by my Miller's Falls smooth plane. After 2 years of use, it's time to clean and possibly flatten again.

just my .02 on the workbench subject.

She's a beauty!

I'm curious ... the cash investment was a mere fifty bucks, but what was the time investment? I'd love to build one.

[reible]

Latest woodcraft flyer has the birch 1-1/2" x 27" x 60" workbench top for $119.99 ($50 off). (161270)

Even sanded to 150 grit already.

Ed

[terrydowning]

She's a beauty!

I'm curious ... the cash investment was a mere fifty bucks, but what was the time investment? I'd love to build one.

the time investment was fairly significant as I did all of the work by hand. Yes, all boards were squared and hand jointed just like in Paul's Videos. Not too bad starting with dimensioned wood and I was very choosy when selecting the 2 by stock. Minimal knots, minimal warp, twist and bow etc.

The wedge powered wagon vice added to the time investment, but it's all hobby time anyways. I did the work on my back patio and enjoyed some good weather while working on it. So for me it was time well spent.

All told there were several days spent on the bench build. I added the leg vise later.

I do wood working for a hobby so I don't consider the time investment. Any time spent working on projects is "God Time". To borrow a phrase form the fishermen of this world. "The worst day in the shop is better than the best day at work." (Except if you injure yourself. which is another reason I have switched to hybrid woodworking.)

The bench is great and it does what I need it to do and has helped on many other projects.

[cincinnati]

A good read if you are wanting to build a new bench.

https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Desi ... 532&sr=1-1

It totally changed my mind from what I thought I wanted vs what I needed.
Douglas Fir is the bench top wood of choice of many woodworker today.

[bobgroh]

I built my first 'real' work bench and used 3 layers of 3/4" plywood for the top - liberally glued each layer and used dry wall screws to hold the layers together while the glue dried and then I removed the dry wall screws. 4x4 legs, 2x6 as stretchers. Very solid and stable but the plywood is too soft. Dents very easily and doesn't handle holdfasts well.

When I build my next bench, I will use regular fir 2x4's from the local big box store - make sure they are flat and square and untwisted and glue them into one big old top.