Dado arbor for regular blade

[JPG]

Keyway 'short' - how about the threads?

I think the large spacer is needed between the arbor shoulder and the blade.

[dusty]

Yes, very tip of the arbor makes minor contact with Table Tie Bar and Tie Bar Guard. Contact is enough to prevent lowering the table.

Note the shape of the Tie Bar Guard. It may be that this shape (which provides for some clearance) is intended to be used with the dado arbor. However, even with that, the blade is no where near centered in the cutout.

[reible]

Yes, very tip of the arbor makes minor contact with Table Tie Bar and Tie Bar Guard. Contact is enough to prevent lowering the table.

Note the shape of the Tie Bar Guard. It may be that this shape (which provides for some clearance) is intended to be used with the dado arbor. However, even with that, the blade is no where near centered in the cutout.

I had a feeling that would be the case. Thanks for checking it out!

So if you want to use the dado arbor for a regular blade on a 505-520 and use the upper blade guard/knife it will not work. I believe that is a correct statement.

500 hardware might be different but I have none to test with here.

Ed

[dusty]

Yes, very tip of the arbor makes minor contact with Table Tie Bar and Tie Bar Guard. Contact is enough to prevent lowering the table.

Note the shape of the Tie Bar Guard. It may be that this shape (which provides for some clearance) is intended to be used with the dado arbor. However, even with that, the blade is no where near centered in the cutout.

I had a feeling that would be the case. Thanks for checking it out!

So if you want to use the dado arbor for a regular blade on a 505-520 and use the upper blade guard/knife it will not work. I believe that is a correct statement.

500 hardware might be different but I have none to test with here.

Ed

I gotta think about this but on the surface, I think your conclusion is correct.

I returned to this thread to comment that the interference is si slight (between the arbor and the tie bar) that it MIGHT be a function of quill or idler shaft placement (lateral movement). Then I checked the other machine. Same condition. Not likely both machines were put together wrong.

[dusty]

I need not think about it anymore. I attempted to mount the dado arbor along with a standard lower saw guard. It seems strange to me that this is the case but there is interference.

I must have discovered that long ago because I do not recall the lasdt time I attempted the setup. When doing dadoes, I just expect a mess.

I wonder how John does this because I never see this kind of saw dust in his shop. He must cut dadoes from time to time. Ahh, maybe he all his dadoes with a Festool Router equipped with dust collection.

[jsburger]

OK, I spent some time in the shop investigating the issues. Those that expressed concern for various reason (JPG, Ed, Dusty, etc.) are correct. Those that say it works with no issues, well I don't know how you came to that conclusions because there are issues. I only found one narrow set of circumstances where it works. As a result I understand why SS says not to use it. Partly due to liability and partly it just physically won't work.

Here is what I found. As Ed showed in his post the reference surface of the dado arbor and the 5/8" saw arbor line up using a thin washer first on the dado arbor. The first two pictures here show that the same is true of the 1 1/4" arbor. Duh Remember the reference surface of the dado arbor and the 1 1/4" saw arbor is on opposite sides of the blade. As Ed said thin washer-blade-thin washer does not work because the groove for the keyed washer and the threads are not long enough. OK, add the thick washer on the right side and all is well.

Here is the real issue. The center line of a stacked dado is farther to the right on the arbor than the center line of a single blade. That means the table must be moved to the right to center the dado blade. To center a single saw blade the table must be moved left and then it hits (very slightly) the tie bar. There is a sweet spot. As long as the table is low enough so the threaded part of the arbor is above the tie bar the table can be moved far enough to the left to center the blade. Then if you lower the table too far it hits the shield. The shield can be removed in that case. The third and fourth pictures show that it does work but only in the above narrow circumstance.

You can always use the thick spacer to the left of the blade and it will work but then the spliter does not line up so the upper saw guard can not be used. That can be seen in the last picture.

Had SS made the dado arbor one thread shorter none of this would be an issues and it would work just fine. I do not believe there is anything inherently unsafe about the arbor itself being used with a single saw blade. The issue is that it only works safely in one narrow set of circumstances not related to the arbor itself. You can make it work in all cases but then you can't use the upper guard. So of course SS says no.

[jsburger]

I need not think about it anymore. I attempted to mount the dado arbor along with a standard lower saw guard. It seems strange to me that this is the case but there is interference.

I must have discovered that long ago because I do not recall the lasdt time I attempted the setup. When doing dadoes, I just expect a mess.

I wonder how John does this because I never see this kind of saw dust in his shop. He must cut dadoes from time to time. Ahh, maybe he all his dadoes with a Festool Router equipped with dust collection.

Of course I do dadoes. No Festools here. I do all dadoes 1/2" and smaller on my router table if I can. It has almost 100% dust collection. My SS dado stack is set for "3/4" plywood and stays that way. Yes it spews some dust. Remember, I have a 2000CFM cyclone and my wife and I clean as we go.

The big thing to remember is I hate pictures on eBay or wherever where someone is selling something like a SS and the tables are stacked full of "stuff" and junk all over the place to where you can't tell what is being sold.

Before I post pictures for the world to see I do a little cleaning.

[Hobbyman2]

Thank you for the pictures ,

May I compliment your wife on keeping the place clean for ya!!

I went out and checked myn, I just purchased a used 510 table , didn't get the guards with the unit ,,love the bigger work area and new fence,,and now you guys tell me a 520 is even better??

I have been waiting on the right set of guards to come available on Americas favorite home shopping network ,,or craigs list,now I might have to get the 520 set up,

With out a guard ,,,,,my table will rest on the head stock and nothing touches any where .

resawing on the table saw,,,,that requires full depth of cut most of the time ,,,,usually requires removing the top guard on most of my eq, even the SS.

The lack of dust guards may explain why I haven't experienced your situation,,Unlike many who work out of their basement ,, I work in a open garage so the saw dust doesn't bother me , it gets cleaned up after every use.

I have used dust collectors before ,,,modified shop vacs,,,but for me they are just as much work to clean and maintain as sweeping and dusting and sweeping is a lot quieter..

I will know when I up grade further,, to look out for this ,,thank you.

The old MKV table,,,, had no issues using the arbor that I can remember even with the guards.,
I seldom use the table saw on the SS for any thing over 1" thick,, every thing else gets cut on the stand alone including resawing..so depth of cut hasn't been a issue.

Not saying I haven't done it ,, just my other saw works and is lower to the floor making it easier to handle the stock.

As far as a safety involving the cutting process ,,,if the situations you pointed out are avoided the arbor will safely handle one blade.,,,

As far back as I can remember I have used end blade from dado sets to cut 1/8" dado's for gift box bottoms .

Although a router is my first choice .



Again thank you.


Hobbyman2

[dusty]

That 'rotated' pix merely looks like 'from the back' to me.

You are right. There is no way to do what i was thinking without a negative.

[JPG]

That 'rotated' pix merely looks like 'from the back' to me.

You are right. There is no way to do what i was thinking without a negative.

Sure about that?