tripping breaker

[Quazit]

JPG, re continuity checker or ohmmeter. Could you recommend how to perform this check please?

Gotcha re" the switch. I have a switch here somewhere that was an older heavy duty toggle. If you suggest not trying to check that as well, I certainly will not.

[br549]

I'm sure JPG will reply with a more detailed response, but I'll give you what limited advice I can.

I've been down a similar road before.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 4-s20.html

I "piggybacked" on this thread with my similar problem and got mine working by getting better contact when the centrifugal switch is supposed to be closed. Just touching may not be enough ... the copper "yoke" should deflect slightly.

As far as a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM), it can be used to make sure contacts are meeting well. With power to motor DISCONNECTED and using the OHMS setting (this function is usually indicated by the uppercase Greek letter Omega) to measure resistance, put leads on the bare portion of the wires that go the centrifugal switch contact points. Either lead can go on either wire. When the switch is closed, there should be no resistance and you should get a "0" reading. The VOM sends a small current thru the leads (from its battery) and measures how much resistance that current encounters along its path. A VOM is very useful for this function alone to check and isolate electrical problems. For example, it could also be used to check your power switch, again with power plug DISCONNECTED from power source. Depending on what you are testing, you may not always get an exact "0" for a reading, as there is small amount of resistance in any circuit. You can test the VOM by touching the two leads directly together and get a "0" reading. But as far as telling whether or not a circuit is complete, a VOM is very useful to have. Harbor Freight frequently has ads to get a simple VOM free with any other purchase, and it costs about $5 if you don't need to buy something else.

[dusty]

He can reply with specific information ONLY if you provide more detail about the motor.

[Quazit]

Here is the shot of the motor itself.

[Quazit]

This is my C Switch

[Quazit]

Pic f the contacts and how they sit.

[JPG]

When the start contacts 'close', is there deflection of the leaf spring(the strap the contact is on)? That extra motion is called 'wipe' and is an indication that the contacts are actually pressing against each other. If they look like they are merely touching(maybe) thay may not be making electrical contact.

No apparent burning is a good sign.

Creeping is NOT good. It is however an indicator that the contacts may not be making(the start circuit is not complete). Another possibility is a terminal on the start capacitor may have become disconnected.

[Quazit]

When the start contacts 'close', is there deflection of the leaf spring(the strap the contact is on)? That extra motion is called 'wipe' and is an indication that the contacts are actually pressing against each other. If they look like they are merely touching(maybe) thay may not be making electrical contact.

No apparent burning is a good sign.

Creeping is NOT good. It is however an indicator that the contacts may not be making(the start circuit is not complete). Another possibility is a terminal on the start capacitor may have become disconnected.

I apologize, Im not sure I understand. With no power to the motor at all the contacts are touching. and theyre touching pretty good. I havent observed them while attempting to start it.

So if I may lets back up. Should the contacts be touching under no power at all If so, should they be pretty tight against one another? Theyre pretty tightly pressed together. It would take a bit of centrifigul force to get that lever to get low enough to break the contact.

EDIT: I checked and as far as I can tell there is contact. The capacitor contacts look fine. I did note that the wires were warming up. But no smoke or anything of that nature. (If that helps indicate anything)

I made an attempt at playing with the bending of the arms on the C switch, it seems to have made no difference.


Also, of note, and I apologize I did not mention it. I am conducting these tests without the motor in the machine. The motor and the cover are completely removed as well as the switch (Which is out of the body of the machine but still attache of course to the motor.) if that makes sense.

[JPG]

Yes it makes sense.

We have reached the point where visual inspection is not revealing any clues.

That takes us back to measuring resistance etc..

Harbor freight often has a multi tester on giveaway.

The closing of the contacts would be indicated by a near zero resistance reading.

The start winding resistance would be a few ohms.(<10)

Checking the capacitor is more tricky.

[Quazit]

Thanks to harbor freight it is then