Coloring dyes question

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reible
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Coloring dyes question

Post by reible »

I have this project that I'd like to give a green tint to. Part of the piece has light color wood but the other and larger portion is darker. Rather then try to explain more this is a picture of what the wood looks like now.
IMG_3846smc.jpg
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Since I have an order going in to the woodturners catalog I was thinking of this:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/14 ... rm=105-341

What I'm wondering is what will the end result be, a muddy brown or something with a bit of green to it????

Or if you have another idea???

Many many years ago I finished a gun stock by using a blue paint as a filler and just letting it highlight the pores and then many many coats of boiled linseed oil. It was impressive.

I don't want go that far with this case as it is more utilitarian. If it doesn't work I'm not opposed to just painting it.

Ed
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by Hobbyman2 »

If you have a small piece of the wood you could try it first.
Not sure where you could get the dye in small samples first before you buy a bunch ?



This fella has a video on dyes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5ygOsqYsOY
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reible
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by reible »

I decide to go for it and buy the dye I referenced to in my first post in this thread so we will see how that works out. I had an order going their way anyway so adding another $9 to it seemed reasonable even if I learn that it will not work the way I hoped.

Some time next week it should be here but no way to know for certain what the weather will be like. At least when the weather improves I'll be ready.

Ed
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by ChrisNeilan »

I have some Belhan green dye I picked up at Woodcraft. One good thing about it is you can use it full strength, or easily cut it down. I recommend some sanding sealer first so it doesn't absorb too much and blotch on you. The dye you ordered is pretty similar, so results should be good.
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reible
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Re: Coloring dyes question

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Doesn't the sanding sealer stop penetration of the color or is that the point?

I have to finish sanding the case and hopefully get out a few scars from using it unfinished for a good long time. I'd like to get my rails back in it but since I have the latch and handles off I'd like to get it finished before I put it back together.

Ed
ChrisNeilan wrote:I have some Belhan green dye I picked up at Woodcraft. One good thing about it is you can use it full strength, or easily cut it down. I recommend some sanding sealer first so it doesn't absorb too much and blotch on you. The dye you ordered is pretty similar, so results should be good.
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by ERLover »

I work with dyes and stains a lot and in combos of both. I learned it from Bob Flexners book and then by use and experience following his techniques.
I use TransTint dyes and usually Minwax oil base stains.
Basically you use a dye first to get the color you want, dint soak the wood, wipe on wipe off, I mix min with DNA so it does not raise the grain lik water mix would. You can go back over it if need be to darken, or with just a rag dampened with water or DNA to lighten/blend it better.
Then I do a seal coat of 1.5lb cut of Shellac, then buff with a green scotch brite pad. Then my stain or BLO to add depth,pop the grain colors, then finish of my choice which is usually oil based wipe on poly.
I will add pics of some of that and explanation in next post in a bit. time to make moms dinner.
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by ERLover »

The bird eyes maple wast lightly died with Trans Tint Antique Maple, Then BLO to pop the grain and eyes, then oil based poly.
I highly recommend Bob Flexners finishing book, easy to understand and you will learn so much. It is my finishing bible.
http://www.rockler.com/understanding-wo ... shing-book
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KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts :D :D :D :D :D :D
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them. :)
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reible
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by reible »

What I was really after was if the green wood dye would give the wood I have a green color or will it just be a bit darker brown then what I now have. I'd like the green to show up so if someone looks at it they would notice the "green-ness". Doesn't mater all that much as if it looks to bad I will go ahead a "paint" it.

This is not special project only a case for my Festool rails to stay safe in, a tool box if you will. Parts of this are a pine and I expect the color to show up quite will on that, the plywood, well, that is what I don't know what to expect as to how it will look after.

The videos I have watch always show lighter colored woods, I am suspect that darker woods will just look muddy with the dye. We will all know the answer in a short while.

Ed


ERLover wrote:I work with dyes and stains a lot and in combos of both. I learned it from Bob Flexners book and then by use and experience following his techniques.
I use TransTint dyes and usually Minwax oil base stains.
Basically you use a dye first to get the color you want, dint soak the wood, wipe on wipe off, I mix min with DNA so it does not raise the grain lik water mix would. You can go back over it if need be to darken, or with just a rag dampened with water or DNA to lighten/blend it better.
Then I do a seal coat of 1.5lb cut of Shellac, then buff with a green scotch brite pad. Then my stain or BLO to add depth,pop the grain colors, then finish of my choice which is usually oil based wipe on poly.
I will add pics of some of that and explanation in next post in a bit. time to make moms dinner.
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by ChrisNeilan »

reible wrote:Doesn't the sanding sealer stop penetration of the color or is that the point?

I have to finish sanding the case and hopefully get out a few scars from using it unfinished for a good long time. I'd like to get my rails back in it but since I have the latch and handles off I'd like to get it finished before I put it back together.

Ed
ChrisNeilan wrote:I have some Belhan green dye I picked up at Woodcraft. One good thing about it is you can use it full strength, or easily cut it down. I recommend some sanding sealer first so it doesn't absorb too much and blotch on you. The dye you ordered is pretty similar, so results should be good.
That's kinda the point. It allows some dye thru, but evens out the penetration so you don't get blotchy areas. I've tried it (on lathe turnings only) and liked the results. Capt Eddie has a video on it somewhere on his channel. I just sealed half a piece of plywood and half a piece of MDF with Deft sanding Sealer and will let that cure a bit and hit it with some of my green dye- You got me curious! I'll post pics tomorrow...
Last edited by ChrisNeilan on Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Hobbyman2
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Re: Coloring dyes question

Post by Hobbyman2 »

Doesn't the sanding sealer stop penetration of the color or is that the point?

===========
Some what ,also the finish wont absorb into the stock as deep , like you said though ,,,it may just discolor the green tint .

Maybe add a touch of red to the mix for a olive green.



Jane Cozart, Instructor, Color Theory, Academy of Art University
Written 6 Oct 2016
Brown and green will make a dull muddy green. If you are looking for an olive green, try mixing green with a touch of red. I will make a richer and more engaging olive color.
https://www.quora.com/What-color-does-t ... green-make
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