Table Saw Blades

[masonsailor2]

I stand corrected Ed. Thanks. I just pulled out my 5/8 arbor and although the 5/8 arbor looks like it is longer but it is not when you line them up.
Paul

[masonsailor2]

I just pulled out the arbors and found the two different 1 1/4 arbors I didn't know I even had. They both differ from the 5/8 arbor.

[stephen_a._draper]

Most Shopsmith users do not use their blades to the extent that arbor size makes a difference. However, arbor size does make a difference in commercial applications where materials are being cut continuously all day long by the same blade and thousands of feet of lumber are cut. In these situations the blade will increase in temperature and the steel can then warp some. The larger diameter arbor will decrease the amount of warp that happens in these situations. Cheaper blades with small diameter bores will heat up and the kerf size will increase as the steel temperature rises.

http://www.dynamicsaw.com has a whole series of videos that explain and show everything you ever did or did not want know about circular saw blades and the geometry and engineering involved. You can look at them here:

http://www.dynamicsaw.com/instructional ... ideos.html

Daniel Callari is the presenter.

You can also find them on youtube

[everettdavis]

MickyD started a thread on this about 7 years ago that has some interesting comments within it.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 144#p58144

The take away was the larger hole size and arbor stabilized the 10" blade, whereas the 5/8" arbors, were quickly supplemented by large blade stabilizing washers on each side to add the rotational mass and further stabilize the blade, which was not necessary on the larger commercial blades which had larger arbors.

You may find it helpful to go through it.

Personally I use the 5/8" arbors on most everything, and if I need I can when desired, dismount that expensive blade and use it on my 5/8" miter saw.

Everett

[kkoyle]

I just recently picked up two Tenryu blades but have not had a chance to really use them yet. One was a 12" standard kerf combo blade that I had bored out to 1 1/4 for the SS and the other a 10" combo standard kerf 5/8 bore for the big TS.
Paul

Wait a minute... are you saying that you are using a 12" blade on the Shopsmith? How does THAT work?!?

[JPG]

I just recently picked up two Tenryu blades but have not had a chance to really use them yet. One was a 12" standard kerf combo blade that I had bored out to 1 1/4 for the SS and the other a 10" combo standard kerf 5/8 bore for the big TS.
Paul

Wait a minute... are you saying that you are using a 12" blade on the Shopsmith? How does THAT work?!?

Maybe he got that reversed?

[masonsailor2]

No I didn't get it reversed. I have used a 12 inch blade on the SS for years. I use it most commonly on a jig I use for making tapered table legs where I need the extra cutting depth. I generally only use it to make cuts after I have band sawed them fairly close so I am taking off only 1/16" or 1/8" or so but it works quite well. The SS in the past has not had the power to make full cuts but now with the PP it may. It's the same size as the disc sander so size wise it all works fine.
Paul

[BuckeyeDennis]

No I didn't get it reversed. I have used a 12 inch blade on the SS for years. I use it most commonly on a jig I use for making tapered table legs where I need the extra cutting depth. I generally only use it to make cuts after I have band sawed them fairly close so I am taking off only 1/16" or 1/8" or so but it works quite well. The SS in the past has not had the power to make full cuts but now with the PP it may. It's the same size as the disc sander so size wise it all works fine.
Paul

Very interesting! With a conventional headstock, have you ever tried turning the speed down to make a full cut with a 12" blade? The reason I ask is that as you decrease the speed, you increase the available torque at the blade. You'd have to cut slower, of course.

[masonsailor2]

I think I may have a very long time ago but I don't remember the circumstances. I have used it many times to cut table legs from alder, Mahogany and Paduak but just trim cuts. It works fine for that and doesn't even slow down so no issues. I have not had the occasion to use a 12" blade with the PP but at 2 HP it probably would do fine cutting 4" material. The PP has probably has enough torque to pull it off. I have some 12/4 scraps of mahogany in the bin and if I get time today I will try cutting a piece with the PP.
Paul

[bobgroh]

I would also think that you could reduce speed because the 'tooth velocity' (just made up that term - by this I mean the radial velocity at the tooth tip) goes up substantially, i.e. for the same blade RPM, the tooth velocity (for 12" vs 10") goes up by a the ratio of the radius (i.e. 6/5 = 1.2x in this case).