Stripped an allen head on my motor pulley while tightening. Stripped it even more trying to loosen it. The threads are fine; it's just the head for the allen wrench.
Other than drilling out the whole thing, is there a more efficient method? I'm afraid to drill it out in fear of damaging the threads on the pulley.
Dansmith wrote:Stripped an allen head on my motor pulley while tightening. Stripped it even more trying to loosen it. The threads are fine; it's just the head for the allen wrench.
Other than drilling out the whole thing, is there a more efficient method? I'm afraid to drill it out in fear of damaging the threads on the pulley.
I think you need a much lighter touch when tightening .
While using either a new or redressed allen wrench, make certain that you are inserting the wrench as deep into the set screw as possible. Check to make certain that there is no sawdust or other crude which might prevent full insertion.
When you do get it off, get a NEW set screw.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
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Go grab yourself a set of Torx bits. Also called 'star' bits. Usually you can find cheap sets with a cheap driver at the hardware store. Try the size that stripped first. No luck with the right size? Get the next size up and hammer it in to the set screw. I've always had luck this way. Otherwise. Yep, gotta drill it out and use an Eazy-Out. If you damage the threads then don't panic. Helicoil inserts will repair it just fine.
Thanks for all the tips. I have tried most of them; except, the torx bits. I think I will try that next (I do have a set of torx bits). If that doesn't work, I think I will leave it in until I really need to loosen it, or until it loosens itself (fingers crossed)
I have had some success with using a sacrificial allen wrench, heating it to the point of red-hot, then inserting it as deep as it will go into the stripped screw, allowing it to heat up the screw and hopefully break the bond it has, using a cold allen wrench to remove screw.
Heating the first one will remove the temper on it so it will be too soft to attempt to remove the screw with. You can of course re-temper it and oil quench it later.
If that fails to help and you do have to do the ease-out (which is an oxymoron since there is little easy when you are this stressed, I would point you to the document on My Google Drive that's titled Got Rust?
In it I include a discussion of ease outs, and a video link to an excellent gunsmith who does an exceptionally good video on their use.
The key is securely holing the piece when you drill the hole where it is absolutely stable.