Quill, spindle and arbor issues...

[easterngray]

Hi Guys. I am restoring a Shopsmith that I bought this past Saturday. I can't get the saw blade off the spindle. Even if I remove the arbor set screw all the way, she is on there tight and won't budge. Secondly: the bright aluminum knurled ring between the arbor and the headstock has some sort of epoxy in the set screw hole and won't budge either way. I am assuming that since it is knurled it's meant to be turned. What is that ring? Is that part of my problem? Thirdly: The entire quill has a wee bit of horizontal play, even when locked down. I suspect that isn't right. Thanks very much in advance. Any help is appreciated! Best regards, Alec

[dusty]

You are right about the horizontal movement of the quill being incorrect. I suspect that you're going to need bearings but let's wait until you have resolved the other stated problems.

First you cannot remove the arbor from the spindle. NO HAMMERS. Impact is not the treatment of choice. I suspect that the arbor has turned on the spindle with the set screw set but not set secure enough to prevent the arbor from moving. This could then produce a burr that is now preventing the arbor from moving at all.

The knurled ring is not associated with the fact that you cannot remove the arbor. The knurled ring only needs to be removed if you are attemptiong to remove the quill completely. You may end up doing that but it is adviseable to get the arbor off of the spindle first.

Please refer to the following referenced forum post. This contains some advice from Nick et al that should help you. The setscrew to which you refer is the one that is described as being filled with 'ackempunky'.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ight=quill

Word of caution: working with that saw blade on the arbor would make me very uncomfortable. Make certain that the SS is unplugged and be careful anyhow. Even an idle saw blade can cut you up good.

Refer to the following for information on how to seek assistance from Shopsmith Customer Service. 1-800-762-7555 (from 9:00 am til 8:00 pm) or
http://www.shopsmith.com/custserv.htm for details.

[easterngray]

Dusty - Thanks. I soaked the arbor well with p.o. t'nite and am hoping I can get it off t'morrow. I agree - NO HAMMERS... but what to do?
Thanks for the Quill info too. Lots to do, but I enjoy it. At least shiny aluminum is easy!! Alec

[dusty]

After soaking it, hold that knurled ring stationary (no wrenches) and try to work the arbor off (wingle it and pull) and then wingle some more. You are attempting to overcome an unintentional mechanical bind. With the setscrew removed (as reported) it almost has to be a burr or rust.

One thing about this baby your working with - force is NEVER the solution. Persuasion is the way to go.

[reible]

Hi,

I saw this question over at the ssug.org site and posted over there...

Sure hope it is not as bad as the twisted set screw issue.......

Ed

[easterngray]

Thanks alot fellas. Ed, I saw your other post - much appreciated - looks very helpful. I'll post results if I have any! Thanks again, Alec

[charlese]

This is a very interesting post. Easterngray has a vexing problem to be sure.
BUT please tell me what's wrong with a couple/few lights taps to the side of the arbor with a metal ball pien hammer? Back in the "old days" when we had to free up any type of "frozen" metal parts, we used penetrating oil and some raps with another metal object (hammer preferred). Seems that we believed - and were told by the old timers - the vibrations set up in the metal to metal contact helped tremendously in loosening the stuck object. KNOW WHAT? IT ALWAYS WORKS!

P.S. The other day when removing a new sawblade arbor, I found the new set screw stuck very tightly. WHOOPS! I had tightend it too much (even remember hearing that dreaded click when securing it) . Well - after twisting an allen wrench in the process - I decided to try the P.O. and hammer. Used WD-40 and soaked the screw for an hour, tried another wrench and -no go- by hand. Put the allen wrench in again and tensioned it tightly (trying to remove the screw) while tapping/rapping on the wrench with a ball pien. (only a 10oz one). Low and behold the screw came out! Then all that was left was to wipe down the arbor and shaft.

PPS. In my venacular - a rap is a little harder than a tap - just hard enough to hear the metal "ring".


Wishing Easterngray the best of luck -

[easterngray]

Thanks Chuck. I'm having a devil of a time with it. 3 days of soaking with penetrating oil, lots of wiggling, yanking and twisting to no avail. I tried a pickle fork today but still no luck. I think the ball peen is sounding good - but I don't want to bend the spindle!! Maybe just a "rap" lkike you described will be the ticket. SS's multi-function feature is tough when you can't get the saw blade off!!! Thanks again - Alec

[dusty]

I know that this is not the same as your problem though there are some similarities; I happened onto this while browsing and thought it interesting.

It was also interesting that Chuck is not the only oner who uses a hammer on shafts with bearings. It seems like I might be the only one who thought that was a no no.

http://www.jacobschuck.com/pdf/s1.pdf

[charlese]

Alec - Try this - - Put a 10" Cresent wrench on the arbor tighten it up good then tap it to turn the arbor both ways (Trying to turn the arbor). JUST TAPS! You may find that turns the whole shaft. That's O.K. What we are looking for is the metal to metal ring. If you put the sanding disk on the other end you can hold it somewhat. If that doesn't work after all that soaking. - Try a RAP or two.

BUT FIRST WRAP A RAG AROUND THE SAW BLADE - I'D SECURE IT WITH MASKING TAPE!

Should work as it looks like all you have to loosen in corrosion or rust. If your mechanic friend loans you a puller - after tightening you have to rap the hub of the puller - - so a few (maybe 10 or so) taps and raps won't hurt anything! The only thing I would watch for is the wrench being in a position where it will come loose and fall on you toe. Tighten the cresent wrench tight before tapping/rapping.

Sorry I couldn't give you this idea earlier - thought of it at lunch, but the internet wouldn't let me reach this site for a while.

Best wishes