10er jointer head
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10er jointer head
i searched on here and couldn't really find any information on just the 2 1\2" jointer head (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-2-1- ... Sw3v5Yscjk). Am i missunderstanding that this works in conjunction with the shaper fence (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shop-Smith-Vin ... Sw9hdZ99iJ)?
Re: 10er jointer head
Yes, it works with the shaper/jointer fence.bandmn wrote:i searched on here and couldn't really find any information on just the 2 1\2" jointer head (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-2-1- ... Sw3v5Yscjk). Am i missunderstanding that this works in conjunction with the shaper fence (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shop-Smith-Vin ... Sw9hdZ99iJ)?
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: 10er jointer head
Does anyone know how well it works? I already have the fence but not the jointer head, is it worth spending the money on the head or just save up and buy the whole jointing unit?
Re: 10er jointer head
I have not used the jointer head but I don't see why it would not work fine for edge jointing.bandmn wrote:Does anyone know how well it works? I already have the fence but not the jointer head, is it worth spending the money on the head or just save up and buy the whole jointing unit?
As far as "the whole jointing unit" good luck. You need the jointer and jointer head rest (rare) then the motor pulley adapter (extremely rare). Those parts, if you can find them will set you back around $500. The other option is a MK V jointer. Then you need the Magna MK V SPT adapters for the 10ER and the head stock pulley to drive the SPT coupler. They are both very rare and will cost in the $300 range for both if you ever find them. That does not include the MK V jointer. The third option is a MK V jointer and the SPT adapter and head stock pulley from Skip Campbell at MKCTools.com. He sells his SPT adapter and head stock pulley for $95 each. Also if you find an original 4E jointer and head rest Skip has the required mitor pulley adapter for $95.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: 10er jointer head
Jump on that NOW. You will never get a better deal. You can get the motor pulley from Skip for $95. I have five 10ER's here and I would buy that in an instant. Nice find, you don''t see them like that very often.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3802
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Re: 10er jointer head
If you want a 4E jointer, grab that Cleveland machine quickly. I got mine from Cleveland as well, but they don’t come up very often.
The pulley & adapter that jsburger mentioned are probably MIA along with the motor. But if you just want a user, you can substitute a 2-3-4-5 step pulley. I just bought a machined cast aluminum one myself for a different use — it’s about $30, including shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006H ... UTF8&psc=1
If you’re interested, I can physically check to make sure that it’s compatible with my 10ER and 4E jointer.
Re: 10er jointer head
i have inquired about that unit, if all i am doing is edge jointing (i already have a stand alone 12" planer) is it worth buying that and then whatever else i would need to make that work on my 10er? Would just the jointer head being basically plug and play with me already having the fence be a better route? is that jointer unit any better than the jointer head unit?
Re: 10er jointer head
Here is a link to the Jointer-Shaper Fence and Jointer Cutter information sheet. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2705bandmn wrote:i searched on here and couldn't really find any information on just the 2 1\2" jointer head (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-2-1- ... Sw3v5Yscjk). Am i missunderstanding that this works in conjunction with the shaper fence (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shop-Smith-Vin ... Sw9hdZ99iJ)?
The instructions for the 4" jointer http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2692
And for the 4" jointer mounting kit http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2704
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3802
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Re: 10er jointer head
I’ve done edge jointing on my router table, and that works very well. The 10ER jointer head & shaper fence combo is basically the same setup. I have both, but have not tried edge jointing with them. The shaper fence is the one 10ER component that I’m not terribly impressed with. I noticed that the fence boards were a bit askew on mine, and concluded that the casting was not quite straight. I was able to simply bend it back into alignment, using nothing but moderate hand pressure. With that softness issue, as well as a short support length, I have my doubts about using it for precision edging.bandmn wrote:i have inquired about that unit, if all i am doing is edge jointing (i already have a stand alone 12" planer) is it worth buying that and then whatever else i would need to make that work on my 10er? Would just the jointer head being basically plug and play with me already having the fence be a better route? is that jointer unit any better than the jointer head unit?
The 4E jointer is basically the same machine as the Mark V jointer — a very good unit. In addition to being much more robust mechanically, you can face-joint (flatten) stock up to 4” wide. Another big advantage is that you can keep it set up while sawing, allowing you to square up stock without changing machine setup back and forth. That’s a huge timesaver.
A thickness planer is not a direct substitute for face-jointing. If you run a twisted board, for example, through a thickness planer, it will emerge with consistent thickness, but still twisted. So the essential first step is to get one face of the board flat. You can use a sled along with your thickness planer to flatten boards (and I do so on boards that are too wide for my jointer), but it’s a lot more work.