Bandsaw Tire Replacement

[WorkinClass]

Ok... I'll just continue doing what I do on the daily and have been for 20+ years... Fixing other peoples "repairs" and building better machines and parts. As far as "cantering" wheels, most quality band saws allow for and adjustment or "cantering" of the upper -in this case- or "idler" wheel as it is known. The "drive" wheel is always fixed. This allows for proper adjustment of the blade tracking.

[WorkinClass]

Don't get me wrong... Shopsmith is an amazing design that has lasted the test of time. Obviously. I love it. That's why I embraced it as my go to machine for my weekend "hobby". As a Navy trained machinist, that works with metal everyday, I enjoy relaxing with wood on weekends (like my father - he is the wood worker in my fam). But, that being said, I know a thing or 2 about machinery repair since I've spent about 75% of the last 24 years reverse engineering broken down, worn out machinery. 90% of the time with an incomplete puzzle... "I need this part made." "Well... what does this mate with, how worn is that part? Do you have this piece? 'Cause its kinda important and affects the operation of the part you want me to duplicate..."
I love having a complete machine in my shop so I can see how all the parts interact with one another... As a machinist, it's rare.

I've bored and sleeved bearing diameters, repaired and trued up 100's of bandsaw wheels over the years. But yeah, you're right, I should just throw out everything I know, because SS reinvented the wheel and no one has done it better or copied their design over the last 60 years... OK.

[dusty]

Marc, I would really like to hear your opinions as a machinist with your many years of experience. The Shopsmith bandsaws are truly a "bit" different than most but they are also very much like every other bandsaw out there.

Here on the forum there has been much discussion about blade tracking and how the cant of the upper wheel effects that tracking. Opinions abound but I would like to hear yours. The shape of the wheels (crowned, tapered or flat) is also a point of debate. I don't think anyone has really measured these wheels to ascertain that. I believe (still another opinion) is that there is a "slight" taper to the rear in the wheels while others declare them to be flat. I think that the consensus is that there should be "no crown".

I have two Shopsmith bandsaws of approximately the same vintage. One does seem to work better than the other; especially for tasks such as resawing. Strangely enough the better of the two has tires that are hard and cracked from age; a condition that some say should be corrected. If this bandsaw did not work so well I would change tires but for now NO WAY.

I have made my own crude measurements to get to my own opinions but I would like to hear what a qualified machinist says.

If you do decide to respond, do expect some debate. There are always those who "just know more than anyone else". This forum is a prime example.

[JPG]

I too would like to reap the knowledge gained by close examination by a machinist.

The thing I would be most interested in is the difference in od at the 'inside' vs 'outside' edge of both wheels as well as the linearity(taper) between.

Much of the 'opinion' that exists here is the result of sparse information from SS which has required us to extrapolate from bits and pieces as well as from imprecise observations.

Be aware that there are angles a very few degrees away from 90.

[Hobbyman2]

I agree with JPG and John , I tried and nearly gave up on myn when I bought it , thought it was worn out ,thought the bearings were bd , thought the cant was off, tried setting it up like a few others and had no luck, then I found the book on it ,,,now it works very well , I have sawn full throat pieces with the bigger blade with out any issues.had to re shape the cool blocks and lube the guide rollers,

The old tires had popped off a few times and I just cleaned them up glue them back on , the replacement tires are still in the box , the last time I re-glued them on with windshield rubber glue,, its all I had ,,,and to my disbelief they are going strong.

[ChrisNeilan]

Listen to JPG and Jsburger... I have a Grizzley 17" bandsaw and 2 Shopsmiths... What works for one does NOT work for the other!I love the engineering of the Shopsmith band saw. Should be industry standard, but is not.

[Duckman]

I will replace the tires as the old ones are a bit dry rotted and have some embedded sawdust and rust where the blade sat on it for several years. I am considering bluemaxes. Also plan to replace the roller bearing backstops.

I got several blades when I bought this unit on C-List. How can I tell if the blades are shopsmith sourced?

I THINK I may get the Jacob Anderson video on the bandsaw. I plan to keep the Magna bandsaw. It really seems bombproof.

Duckman

[dusty]

I will replace the tires as the old ones are a bit dry rotted and have some embedded sawdust and rust where the blade sat on it for several years. I am considering bluemaxes. Also plan to replace the roller bearing backstops.

I got several blades when I bought this unit on C-List. How can I tell if the blades are shopsmith sourced?

I THINK I may get the Jacob Anderson video on the bandsaw. I plan to keep the Magna bandsaw. It really seems bombproof.

Duckman

I don't believe you can. All but one of my blades came from Shopsmith** and there are no tell tale markings on any of them.

If they cut well what difference does it make? If they don't cut well, discard them and start over.

**My opinion: This does not mean that they are "Shopsmith" blades. I believe Shopsmith markets other manufacturers product in their Shopsmith packaging.