This is a collapsible buck saw based on a design in Gil Gilpatrick’s book, Building Outdoor Gear. It is for my brother-in-law, who does a lot of tree work but will not use a chain saw. My wife is sewing a case. There is another buck saw in my future for canoe camping trips.
This one is walnut finished with 5-6 coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It has a 24” blade that folds into the handles and is tensioned with a Spanish windlass using paracord. It is amazing how much tension that windlass can apply! I tested it out on a couple of logs before I put the finishing touches on it and it went through logs just like a buck saw should.
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Last edited by algale on Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:02 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Harder to lose.... A dark wood buck saw with a less neon colored piece of paracord would more easily get lost when put down in the woods. In fact, I think I'd like the paracord to be bright, neon orange.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Great looking bucksaw Al. Good to have along when you see that Christmas tree you can't live without at one of those cut your own sales. One of my favorite woods too.
Mark 7 Power Pro, Mark V 510, Mark VII (early 1960s) Headstock wall mount drill press on Mark 5 way tubes, Mark 5 Shorty with reversible motor, Overhead Pin Router, Power station with band saw, Jointers, Belt Sanders, Strip Sander, Scroll saw, Jigsaw, Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator, Craftsman 2.5 hp 13" Planer/molder, Craftsman 5 hp 12-inch planer molder, myriad Shopsmith accessories, Harbor Freight sawmill with extensions to cut 22' logs.
I ended up giving that first bucksaw to my brother in law and I finally got around to building another. This one has a slightly different design that I frankly copied from two different companies selling them. The main advantage to this one is that it can be tensioned either with a piece of cord (spanish windlass) or with the threaded rod as shown. It also sticks together courtesy of the floating tenons glued into the stretcher's top which fit into the same mortises on the handles that the stretcher fits into. I will replace the plastic wing nuts (as shown) with metal ones when I can get back to the hardware store. I will also probably replace the all-thread steel rod with an unthreaded aluminum rod and just thread the last couple of inches. The 4 small holes in the stretcher are there to attach shock cord loops that keep it all together.
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Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Mark 7 Power Pro, Mark V 510, Mark VII (early 1960s) Headstock wall mount drill press on Mark 5 way tubes, Mark 5 Shorty with reversible motor, Overhead Pin Router, Power station with band saw, Jointers, Belt Sanders, Strip Sander, Scroll saw, Jigsaw, Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator, Craftsman 2.5 hp 13" Planer/molder, Craftsman 5 hp 12-inch planer molder, myriad Shopsmith accessories, Harbor Freight sawmill with extensions to cut 22' logs.
