520 carriage not sliding
Moderator: admin
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
The 'old' carriage has bores > 1.77".
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
That explains a lot, especially why the old carriage slides easily down the tubes, Do you think the new tube they are sending me is around 1.73?
That would solve the problem.
I suspect there are multiple things going on here, One of my tubes is slightly larger , slightly bent and out of round. The new carriage holes are not equal diameter and one side(the one near the handle) slightly smaller.
Note, only one hole on the carriage will slide down both holes without jamming. The other hole jams on both tubes. Both replacement 520 carriages do the same thing.
I was idly wondering if an auto repair facility might have a tube bender and some type of "rounder" that might true up and reduce this tube. Or maybe ask a machine shop to bore out the carriage. Probably wildly expensive
Thanks for you comment. I'm sure you have better things to do this weekend.
That would solve the problem.
I suspect there are multiple things going on here, One of my tubes is slightly larger , slightly bent and out of round. The new carriage holes are not equal diameter and one side(the one near the handle) slightly smaller.
Note, only one hole on the carriage will slide down both holes without jamming. The other hole jams on both tubes. Both replacement 520 carriages do the same thing.
I was idly wondering if an auto repair facility might have a tube bender and some type of "rounder" that might true up and reduce this tube. Or maybe ask a machine shop to bore out the carriage. Probably wildly expensive
Thanks for you comment. I'm sure you have better things to do this weekend.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
You measured the out of round area. How far along the tube did it exist?
If it is fairly short it could be abraded down to fit(will likely only require 10-15 thousands off the two 'fat' sides.
Straightening(de squishing) it is not a likely successful endeavor without some very specialized equipment.
I am curious why the gorilla squeezed it in the first place. Maybe something very heavy was dropped onto it.
Abrading does not include use of a Dremel!
If it is fairly short it could be abraded down to fit(will likely only require 10-15 thousands off the two 'fat' sides.
Straightening(de squishing) it is not a likely successful endeavor without some very specialized equipment.
I am curious why the gorilla squeezed it in the first place. Maybe something very heavy was dropped onto it.
Abrading does not include use of a Dremel!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
LOL! Point well taken re the Dremel.. I'll try to resist. I have no idea what was done to the machine while it sat idle for 10 years. All kinds of workmen were coming into the basement and wandering over to touch it. The out of round area is about 8-12 inches long. Since a new tube is coming, I basically have nothing to lose by fooling with the old tube.If I don't like who wins the super bowl I may yet pick up the Dremel.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
BTW what's yer 20?BigJohn wrote:LOL! Point well taken re the Dremel.. I'll try to resist. I have no idea what was done to the machine while it sat idle for 10 years. All kinds of workmen were coming into the basement and wandering over to touch it. The out of round area is about 8-12 inches long. Since a new tube is coming, I basically have nothing to lose by fooling with the old tube.If I don't like who wins the super bowl I may yet pick up the Dremel.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
Chicago. Expecting 3-5 inches of snow and the the snowblower decided to eat a rubber welcome mat during the last storm. Guess ill be out tearing down an augur tomorrow.
re the deformed tube. I still put my money on the weight of the headstock on the center of the tubes for 10 years.
re the deformed tube. I still put my money on the weight of the headstock on the center of the tubes for 10 years.
- thunderbirdbat
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 842
- Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:23 am
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
I do not think it was the headstock, as that would cause both tubes to be deformed. I would think maybe something that fell against it or was leaned against it that caused it.
Brenda
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
you are almost certainly right, assuming both tubes were identical from the get go. If the welding seams were not in the same orientation, one tube might have flexed more than the other. Although that doesn't explain the out of round situation.
Really won't matter if the new tube solves the problem. They are supposed to ship it on Monday. I think I'll call and ask them to confirm that the tube will slide down the holes in a new 520 carnage before they ship it.
anxious to see it all working. I replaced the casters with the new larger red ones. I have reconditioned the bandsaw with new tires, blade and bearings and dust chute. I have replaced the jointer knives and replaced the lift adjustment screw and added a dust chute. I also inherited a plainer and scroll saw and a separate router assembly table with a craftsman 1 1/2 hp router. I plan to sell that and replace it with a Bosch router and table. There are also some additional bins full of parts I have no idea what they do. I had the head-stock rebuilt and removed all the corrosion from the everything. It basically will look and hopefully act like a new machine when the 520 fence is in place. Hey, its a hobby for me. I'm planning to take a woodworking course at the local community college too.
Thank you again for assisting me. I really appreciate it.
Really won't matter if the new tube solves the problem. They are supposed to ship it on Monday. I think I'll call and ask them to confirm that the tube will slide down the holes in a new 520 carnage before they ship it.
anxious to see it all working. I replaced the casters with the new larger red ones. I have reconditioned the bandsaw with new tires, blade and bearings and dust chute. I have replaced the jointer knives and replaced the lift adjustment screw and added a dust chute. I also inherited a plainer and scroll saw and a separate router assembly table with a craftsman 1 1/2 hp router. I plan to sell that and replace it with a Bosch router and table. There are also some additional bins full of parts I have no idea what they do. I had the head-stock rebuilt and removed all the corrosion from the everything. It basically will look and hopefully act like a new machine when the 520 fence is in place. Hey, its a hobby for me. I'm planning to take a woodworking course at the local community college too.
Thank you again for assisting me. I really appreciate it.
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
Success!! The new way tube from shopsmith arrived and worked perfectly for both the carriage and the headstock. Thank you everyone for all your comments and suggestions.
I am a complete newbie to the shopsmith and now that I am well on my way to having a working unit I am looking for some suggestion on how to cut a piece of floor reducer to convert it into a "T". The flooring company no longer makes the T's. I've included a drawing of what I think I need to do, but I'm not sure of what is the best way to do this. Table saw?, router?, something else? I think it could be done with one cut of the table saw, but I'm not sure of the safest way to do it. I'm thinking of putting the finished edge against the fence and then making the cut along the length of the piece. how do i hold it?
I am a complete newbie to the shopsmith and now that I am well on my way to having a working unit I am looking for some suggestion on how to cut a piece of floor reducer to convert it into a "T". The flooring company no longer makes the T's. I've included a drawing of what I think I need to do, but I'm not sure of what is the best way to do this. Table saw?, router?, something else? I think it could be done with one cut of the table saw, but I'm not sure of the safest way to do it. I'm thinking of putting the finished edge against the fence and then making the cut along the length of the piece. how do i hold it?
- Attachments
-
reducer to a T.pdf- (222.91 KiB) Downloaded 726 times
- thunderbirdbat
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 842
- Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:23 am
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Re: 520 carriage not sliding
Glad you got the carriage issue solved.
How long is the piece you want to cut? I can see using either the table saw or the overhead router ability. I think I would use the overhead router ability of the SS. This would allow the workpiece to lay flat on the table eliminating any wobble due to the thin edge left after a table saw cut. In either case a feather board to hold against the fence while guiding from one end. Use a sacrificial piece of wood against the fence while routing. An option for either method, would be to attach the piece temporarily to a larger piece of wood that could be used as a sled to guide the workpiece. A sled would be advisable for a short piece as it would give you a place to hold it.
How long is the piece you want to cut? I can see using either the table saw or the overhead router ability. I think I would use the overhead router ability of the SS. This would allow the workpiece to lay flat on the table eliminating any wobble due to the thin edge left after a table saw cut. In either case a feather board to hold against the fence while guiding from one end. Use a sacrificial piece of wood against the fence while routing. An option for either method, would be to attach the piece temporarily to a larger piece of wood that could be used as a sled to guide the workpiece. A sled would be advisable for a short piece as it would give you a place to hold it.
Brenda
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router