Gooday all,
I'm a brand new shopsmith owner! I picked up a 510 (I think, I has a fancy removable on/off button) a couple of months ago and have just gotten around to using it.
I'm working on a small project were I need to resaw some cedar 2x4s for a rainscreen. now cedar isn't a very hard wood but the table saw seems to bog down to the point of almost stopping! I can't even get 12" into the lumber before it slows right down! Now I'm new to SS but not to power tools and before I rip her apart I would like some input from some seasoned owners.
Here are some of my observations;
all moving parts are square, no play in shaft.
always starting motor at low revs, never changing speed while off.
no smoke or sparks.
tool is on a deticated 20A but needs to be on an 12' extension cord.
I was told it had been lubed recently... might not be true...
I've also noticed that the lower shaft on the left side is getting quite hot...
Anyways, any input would be greatly appreciated.
no power troubleshooting
Moderator: admin
Re: no power troubleshooting
Here's a few ideas.
Dull blade.
Blade backwards on arbor.
Blade not tight on arbor.
Blade arbor not secure on spindle.
Failure to use splitter/riving knife and 2x4 pinching blade.
Wrong speed setting (too fast = too little torque).
Loose belts.
Bad alignment of rip fence or table to blade.
Dull blade.
Blade backwards on arbor.
Blade not tight on arbor.
Blade arbor not secure on spindle.
Failure to use splitter/riving knife and 2x4 pinching blade.
Wrong speed setting (too fast = too little torque).
Loose belts.
Bad alignment of rip fence or table to blade.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- thunderbirdbat
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 842
- Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:23 am
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Re: no power troubleshooting
Also if it has to be on an extension cord, you will want to use a 12 gauge cord. If it is on a 16 gauge, the regular size ones that you see everywhere, it may not be getting enough power.
Brenda
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: no power troubleshooting
The aux hubs do tend to get hot, but very hot may be an indication of slipping belts.
Do not accept that it has been recently lubricated unless thee did it!
An inadequately lubricated floating sheave will cause lack of tension and belt slippage leading to hot idler shaft.
Do not accept that it has been recently lubricated unless thee did it!
An inadequately lubricated floating sheave will cause lack of tension and belt slippage leading to hot idler shaft.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange