Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

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dusty
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by dusty »

If Sconi comes back to work with us on this, that is as good a theory as any other that has been posted but that mechanical stop is only about 3/8" tall. Resting the bench tube on top of it would introduce about 1/2 degree of tilt if the other end remains where it should be. If both ends of the tubes were installed that way, the tilt angle would not change.

Sure wish I could put hands on.
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by dusty »

Just to verify past assumptions (on my part) I took photos of the bench tubes where they contact the mechanical stops. Here is one of those:
20181124_092748.jpg
20181124_092748.jpg (995.5 KiB) Viewed 13334 times
At a glance, this doesn't look any different than one taken before the double tilt.

After verify that both tubes were fully inserted at both ends, I measured the exposed bench tubes. They both measure 48 3/8". Assuming they are buried equally at both ends, they get buried into the Base 1 11/16" (not 2"as previously asserted).

Looking at this photo you can see that if the bench tubes are inserted too far, mounting of the extension tables would be obstructed.
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:If Sconi comes back to work with us on this, that is as good a theory as any other that has been posted but that mechanical stop is only about 3/8" tall. Resting the bench tube on top of it would introduce about 1/2 degree of tilt if the other end remains where it should be. If both ends of the tubes were installed that way, the tilt angle would not change.

Sure wish I could put hands on.
That would make the tubes horizontal, but, the castings would both be skewed and the raised angle not vertical.(that which started all this)

Now about the vertical angle error. Rough measurements off Sconi's second pix make the angle nearer 3° than 20°. Note the level bubble indicates the level ain't.(the left end is low)

I am curious how you arrived at 1/2 degree with 3/8" rise. The pivot point for the error has to be within the casting. At 1 11/16" the angle would be 10-12 degrees.

Now 3° and 1 11/16" yields an off horizontal distance of about 1/10". That is likely within the range of possible distortion of the od of the tubes.

YA we be thrashing looking for a cause.(the result of no feedback).

Like most all other exercises of this nature it has forced us to think and discover things we previously were not cognizant of. - i.e. not a wasted effort.IMHO
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by JPG »

P.S. We been assuming unmodified parts.

Now the OP mentioned that modifying the castings was the 'solution' to this problem.

Have to wonder if previous thinking(?) led to modification(s) and the creation of this problem. :rolleyes:
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by dusty »

sconi wrote:I have a 80’s era Shopsmith upgraded to a powerpro with the double end lift and the lift assist. When using it in an upright position for the drill press it won’t go up high enough for the lock to be engaged. It appears that the casting is too large to let it come fully upright. It did this prior to the double end lift upgrade as well. Any thoughts on how to adjust this so the lock will work and the drill press mode is closer to a 90 degree angle?
This is Sconi's initial post in this thread. Read it without all the rest of the stuff that has been added.

Could it possibly be that his only issue is that the vertical safety lock does not align with the indenture?

Yes, he said 20 degrees and he showed a picture of the 6" level on the end of the head stock.

But he also said he's been using it. Not tilted to 20 degrees off vertical he hasn't!!!!
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:
sconi wrote:I have a 80’s era Shopsmith upgraded to a powerpro with the double end lift and the lift assist. When using it in an upright position for the drill press it won’t go up high enough for the lock to be engaged. It appears that the casting is too large to let it come fully upright. It did this prior to the double end lift upgrade as well. Any thoughts on how to adjust this so the lock will work and the drill press mode is closer to a 90 degree angle?
This is Sconi's initial post in this thread. Read it without all the rest of the stuff that has been added.

Could it possibly be that his only issue is that the vertical safety lock does not align with the indenture?

Yes, he said 20 degrees and he showed a picture of the 6" level on the end of the head stock.

But he also said he's been using it. Not tilted to 20 degrees off vertical he hasn't!!!!
It could be that the misalignment(intentional) of the 'indenture' to the lock screw got the OP thinking it was not fully upright.

All that angle stuff is questionable about it being 20°.

Yes the level pix was posted, but a more meaningful pix would be showing the way tubes out of plumb.

The end of the belt cover is not a good reference surface.

We still be scratching over what to understand re his machine. It may very well be the offset centers of the lock 'dimple' and the locking screw.

Actually this entire thread somewhat frightens me out of concern for the OP lack of understanding of a lot of things including the need to communicate. I do hope he is simply 'away' for some reason.
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by sconi »

Folks, thanks so much for all your suggestions I did get a response from Shopsmith and will add it to the bottom of this post. In order to make room to flip my SS over I'll have to wait until the weather gets better and move some things outside - I have a small shop. From your comments and what SS has sent probably this was an assembly issue as it existed prior to my purchase of it used in 1998. I'll keep you posted as things develop whenever that might be. I wish I had the original directions on how to put it together that might help some.

This problem always is caused by not assembling the bench tubes in the base properly. He has inserted the bench tubes in too far on one end. Because of this the bench tubes are ON the stop-rib, instead of AGAINST the end of the stop-rib in the base.
This difference will throw the machine off square when it is put in the vertical, drill press mode.
To correct this problem, he will have to:
a. Disconnect his gas cylinder from his Lift Assist.
b. Loosen (but not remove) the sixteen bolts that hold the Lift Assist to both the bench tubes and the way tubes.
c. Turn his machine over so it is positioned with the legs up. In this position he can see which end of the bench tubes are inserted too far
d. Loosen the bench tube clamp and repositioning the base on the bench tube.
e. Turn the machine right-side-up.
f. Reset the position of the Lift Assist according to instructions in that manual.
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by dusty »

Hard for me to believe BUT I read it all myself. I read it over twice to make sure.

It is not necessary to turn the machine over to view the tubes to determine which end (if either) is inserted incorrectly. I posted in this thread a picture that shows just that. The tubes up against the stops. If you don't have a camera, trying laying on your back and looking up at the end of the tubes.

It is also not necessary that the machine be turned upside down. Now if I had this task to perform, I would remove the Main Table from the Carriage and the Headstock and Carriage from the tubes. Not necessary but that is what I would do.

Then, with the gas tube disconnected and the bolts holding the lift assist onto the tubes all loosened, the bolts and lock bar holding the offending tubes can be loosened so the tubes can be repositioned and then secured.

An alternate approach....if there are a couple healthy bodies involved, the double tilt castings can be unlocked at both ends and the entire upper assembly (Way Tubes, Pivot Arms, Carriage, Headstock and Main Table) lifted off and set aside.

This is really good news though. I am so thankful that the OP finally received some advise from Shopsmith and that the problem seems to be resolvable.

Keep us posted Sconi. We are anxious to hear that you are back in the business of "making sawdust".
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by jsburger »

dusty wrote:Hard for me to believe BUT I read it all myself. I read it over twice to make sure.

It is not necessary to turn the machine over to view the tubes to determine which end (if either) is inserted incorrectly. I posted in this thread a picture that shows just that. The tubes up against the stops. If you don't have a camera, trying laying on your back and looking up at the end of the tubes.

It is also not necessary that the machine be turned upside down. Now if I had this task to perform, I would remove the Main Table from the Carriage and the Headstock and Carriage from the tubes. Not necessary but that is what I would do.

Then, with the gas tube disconnected and the bolts holding the lift assist onto the tubes all loosened, the bolts and lock bar holding the offending tubes can be loosened so the tubes can be repositioned and then secured.

An alternate approach....if there are a couple healthy bodies involved, the double tilt castings can be unlocked at both ends and the entire upper assembly (Way Tubes, Pivot Arms, Carriage, Headstock and Main Table) lifted off and set aside.

This is really good news though. I am so thankful that the OP finally received some advise from Shopsmith and that the problem seems to be resolvable.

Keep us posted Sconi. We are anxious to hear that you are back in the business of "making sawdust".
Right or wrong in this case, I think the instructions from SS are more about protection from litigation than the way most of us would do it.
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Re: Drill press won't go high enough for lock to work

Post by JPG »

I would prop the bench tubes on a pair of saw horses(takes the legs off the floor). The get down and look up into the castings to ascertain what is wrong and correct that. It would help to remove everything from the upper assembly(tables etc.). Dusty's idea of removing the entire upper assembly including way tubes and half of the hinges is good.

I think the two (or four if necessary) screws that clamp the bench tubes to the base can be loosened and the bench tubes moved to proper location.

Yes flipped upside down would be safer and easier to see what you are doing.

More that one way to skin this feline.

I am glad the experts came to the same conclusion as we eventually did.

One thing to not overlook is if the overall dimensions of the bench tube/casting is altered, the way tubes must be repositioned to accommodate that change. The hinge pins separation will be affected. I think SS's instructions are ignoring that.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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