10ER Quill Binding

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

Chriss
Gold Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:02 am

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by Chriss »

jsburger wrote:Not that I know. Burs are not a problem nor are set screw dimples. The burs can be removed and the dimples don't affect anything normally. Just try and rotate the collar back and forth and pull on the shaft. That will wear down the bur. and then the collar can be pulled off. The bur is on the shaft so once you get the collar past the bur it will not damage the shaft. Then the bur can be filed down and the shaft cleaned and polished.
Alrighty then. A little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet got the shaft moving enough till the burr cleared the collar. Got he pinion shaft out, but then couldn't get the quill out. I had to put the pinion shaft back in and put the handle back on to get the quill moving. It's all out now, and not looking too bad. Mostly just appear to be gummed up with grease. And the spring housing and spring are packed full of saw dust. So I suspect a little cleaning and lubricating will get these moving better.

For lubrication here, do I use machine oil of Johnson's paste wax?
Quill and pinion shaft
Quill and pinion shaft
20190216_162735.jpg (329.71 KiB) Viewed 13090 times
Spring
Spring
20190216_162837.jpg (259.19 KiB) Viewed 13090 times
User avatar
jsburger
Platinum Member
Posts: 6424
Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:06 pm
Location: Hooper, UT

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by jsburger »

Chriss wrote:
jsburger wrote:Not that I know. Burs are not a problem nor are set screw dimples. The burs can be removed and the dimples don't affect anything normally. Just try and rotate the collar back and forth and pull on the shaft. That will wear down the bur. and then the collar can be pulled off. The bur is on the shaft so once you get the collar past the bur it will not damage the shaft. Then the bur can be filed down and the shaft cleaned and polished.
Alrighty then. A little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet got the shaft moving enough till the burr cleared the collar. Got he pinion shaft out, but then couldn't get the quill out. I had to put the pinion shaft back in and put the handle back on to get the quill moving. It's all out now, and not looking too bad. Mostly just appear to be gummed up with grease. And the spring housing and spring are packed full of saw dust. So I suspect a little cleaning and lubricating will get these moving better.

For lubrication here, do I use machine oil of Johnson's paste wax?

$matches[2]

20190216_162837.jpg
The grease is probably why it was gummed up. Johnson's paste wax is what you want to use. Absolutely no grease or oil on anything.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Chriss
Gold Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:02 am

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by Chriss »

jsburger wrote:The grease is probably why it was gummed up. Johnson's paste wax is what you want to use. Absolutely no grease or oil on anything.
Yep. I need to pick up some paste wax and some evaporust...

Now onto the drive sleeve. Looks like I'm going to need some penetrating oil. I loosened the setscrew, but nothing is moving. All I have at the moment is WD-40, so I suppose I'll give that a try.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34693
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by JPG »

Make sure there are not two set screws 90 degrees apart!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Chriss
Gold Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:02 am

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by Chriss »

I did check for that but didn't see a second one. Any chance there is one covered in putty hiding?
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34693
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by JPG »

Chriss wrote:I did check for that but didn't see a second one. Any chance there is one covered in putty hiding?

Not that I know of.

Acupucky maybe! :D Translation crud. ;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
rpd
Platinum Member
Posts: 3045
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:22 am
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by rpd »

Chriss wrote:
jsburger wrote:The grease is probably why it was gummed up. Johnson's paste wax is what you want to use. Absolutely no grease or oil on anything.
Yep. I need to pick up some paste wax and some evaporust...

Now onto the drive sleeve. Looks like I'm going to need some penetrating oil. I loosened the setscrew, but nothing is moving. All I have at the moment is WD-40, so I suppose I'll give that a try.
The drive sleeve should be a slip fit in the headstock, but when I took mine out I had to put a large wood dowel in from the quill end and tap it out with a hammer. Some one had put a sticky tar like substance on it and that resisted removal. If yours has that as well a bit of heat might help to soften it up.

I believe there is only one set screw, but the bolt that hold the upper pulley guard may also bear on the drive sleeve.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
User avatar
rpd
Platinum Member
Posts: 3045
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:22 am
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by rpd »

jsburger wrote:
Chriss wrote:
jsburger wrote:Not that I know. Burs are not a problem nor are set screw dimples. The burs can be removed and the dimples don't affect anything normally. Just try and rotate the collar back and forth and pull on the shaft. That will wear down the bur. and then the collar can be pulled off. The bur is on the shaft so once you get the collar past the bur it will not damage the shaft. Then the bur can be filed down and the shaft cleaned and polished.
Alrighty then. A little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet got the shaft moving enough till the burr cleared the collar. Got he pinion shaft out, but then couldn't get the quill out. I had to put the pinion shaft back in and put the handle back on to get the quill moving. It's all out now, and not looking too bad. Mostly just appear to be gummed up with grease. And the spring housing and spring are packed full of saw dust. So I suspect a little cleaning and lubricating will get these moving better.

For lubrication here, do I use machine oil of Johnson's paste wax?

$matches[2]

20190216_162837.jpg
The grease is probably why it was gummed up. Johnson's paste wax is what you want to use. Absolutely no grease or oil on anything.
The manual does say to put a small amount of grease on the splines to reduce or eliminate chatter.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Chriss
Gold Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:02 am

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by Chriss »

rpd wrote:The drive sleeve should be a slip fit in the headstock, but when I took mine out I had to put a large wood dowel in from the quill end and tap it out with a hammer. Some one had put a sticky tar like substance on it and that resisted removal. If yours has that as well a bit of heat might help to soften it up.

I believe there is only one set screw, but the bolt that hold the upper pulley guard may also bear on the drive sleeve.
I had the pulley guard bolt pulled out, so that wasn't interfering. I just got it out using a large dowel like you said and some tapping with a rubber mallet. It all appears to have some thick sticky brown grease on it just as my pinion and quill do.

Everything is out now, so I guess it's time to start cleaning it all.
Chriss
Gold Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:02 am

Re: 10ER Quill Binding

Post by Chriss »

jsburger wrote:
The grease is probably why it was gummed up. Johnson's paste wax is what you want to use. Absolutely no grease or oil on anything.
After some time away from this working on other projects, I'm getting back to cleaning these parts up. What is best to use for degreasing all these parts?
Post Reply